For Mark Sletten -- I use several of those Deutsch connectors that Lancair sells.  I use a standard 4-crimp crimper (Paladin tools) rather than the expensive Deutsch tool.  Some crimps look good, and some look ragged, but I yank on each one with my fingers before installing, and none have pulled the wire out of the pin.  Do you need the expensive tool?  I say no.  And if you were worried, a dab of solder would make the connection even more secure. (No, I haven't done that.)

For Colyn Case -- "Stall current" for any motor is how much the motor draws when the output is mechanically jammed.  This would be the case where a trim tab is precluded from moving, such as being mechanically trevel-limited to a smaller range than the built in limit switch in the servo.  Occasionally people set circuit breakers to trip somewhere between normal operating current and stall current, so that the motor doesn't heat up and catch fire in the event of a jam.  I wouldn't do that for a MAC trim system, but maybe for a flap motor or a seat motor which is capable of generating a lot of heat.  (We did this on the Javelin prototype for the flaps only.)

For Bob Pastusek -- Those EN3 weathertight connectors look pretty good for the final connection to the trim servo.  Especially if you think about rain, or washing your plane. 

For everyone else -- Thanks for the suggestions.  I think I'm going to use the EN3 connectors that Bob Pastusek suggested for the servos.  For the stuff inside the plane, I think I'll use high density machined pins/sockets, crimp them as best I can, solder them for good measure, stick them together, heat shrink the connection, and have a second heat shrink around the bundle of 5 or 6 pins.  Of course, if I could only learn to solder baby wires, it would be a lot easier...

- Rob Wolf

p.s.  The early Lancair builders learned that engine mounts sag after about 25 hours.  We have been taught to use two area washers at the Lord mounts (or whatever you use) to create "artificial sag" by pushing the engine down, and after 25 hours, take the washers out.  This "builds in" the sag, and when the real sag appears you take out the "artificial sag".  Did I explain this well enough?  I don't know what the current manuals suggest.