X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Sender: To: lml@lancaironline.net Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2008 15:16:40 -0400 Message-ID: X-Original-Return-Path: Received: from crystalvlin1.inetu.net ([209.235.254.29] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.2.0) with ESMTPS id 2790206 for lml@lancaironline.net; Thu, 13 Mar 2008 13:02:40 -0400 Received-SPF: none receiver=logan.com; client-ip=209.235.254.29; envelope-from=ronr@advanceddesign.com Received: (qmail 4036 invoked by uid 89); 13 Mar 2008 17:02:00 -0000 Received: from unknown (HELO adm0019) (64.140.206.227) by crystalvlin1.inetu.net with SMTP; 13 Mar 2008 17:02:00 -0000 X-Original-Message-ID: <011201c8852b$b5e43920$f901a8c0@adm2k.local> From: "Ron Raby" X-Original-To: "Lancair Mailing List" References: Subject: Re: [LML] Re: Clean and Quick Brake Bleeding X-Original-Date: Thu, 13 Mar 2008 12:00:15 -0500 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; format=flowed; charset="iso-8859-1"; reply-type=response Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2900.2905 X-Mimeole: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2900.2180 I had an old timer at the airport help me with bleeding my brakes. He took one of those old fashioned oil cans with a trigger on it. He connected the oil can full of brake fluid with a piece of tygon tubing to the bleed fitting on the wheel cylinder, pumped it up until oil came out of the reservoir. He did this on both sides and we were done. Took him like 10 minutes. Regards Ron Raby ----- Original Message ----- From: "Gary Casey" To: Sent: Thursday, March 13, 2008 10:21 AM Subject: [LML] Re: Clean and Quick Brake Bleeding >I built a bleeding system that functions similar to Dennis', but I'm not >attaching a photo - too embarrassing :-). I found a small plastic bottle >from the kitchen and, with the help of a little RTV, installed a tube >fitting in the bottom. A long piece of clear soft plastic tubing (Tygon) >was used to connect to the bleeder fitting on the brake cylinder and the >bottle with hydraulic fluid was held higher than the reservoir. I opened >the bleeder fitting and waited until the fluid rose in the master >cylinder. That works well for the first time it is filled, but after that >you may have to do like Dennis, connecting an overflow tube to the >reservoir as it may overflow before any bubble gets pushed out. I don't >know how you then lower the reservoir level back to the correct level, >probably by simply draining some back out of the wheel cylinder. I took >some care to make sure all the lines were either very small or were sloped >up toward the reservoir - otherwise an air bubble could remain trapped in >a high spot in the system. The designers of automotive systems used to >rely on the tubing being small enough that a air bubble could be pushed >out the bottom of the system. These days, with complex passages inside >the antiskid systems the only reliable way is with vacuum. The good thing >about that is that it only requires a connection at the reservoir. Vacuum >applied to the reservoir could also work on our systems, but I don't know >if the master cylinder seals would hold against a vacuum. > > Gary Casey > On Mar 13, 2008, at 3:00 AM, Lancair Mailing List wrote: > >> >> I've experimented with a variety of ways to bleed the brakes on my >> Legacy. Some worked, some didn't. Here's one that worked: >> >> >> The galvanized steel bucket is a pressure pot I bought at a garage sale. >> House painters use them. If you're not lucky enough to find one at a >> garage sale, Harbor Freight often has a two quart model on sale for $30, >> which includes a paint spray gun, too! The two quart pot would actually >> be a little more convenient than this big and heavy five quart pot. >> >> Here's how it works. Put a quart or so of brake fluid into the pressure >> pot and tighten the lid. Connect one end of a plastic tube from the >> outflow of the pressure pot and connect the other end to the brake >> bleeder fitting #87-5. Tighten the #87-5 fitting to the brake bleeder >> on the Cleveland brake assembly. Remove the plug on the top of the >> brake fluid reservoir on the firewall and replace it with a threaded >> fitting and a piece of plastic tube that empties into an empty oil can. >> Apply 15 psi air pressure to the pressure pot and open the brake bleeder >> a quarter turn. The air pressure slowly forces the brake fluid out of >> the pressure pot and through the brake lines and out the reservoir. Let >> it flow out the reservoir until all the air is gone, then close the >> brake bleeder and remove air pressure from the pressure pot. Remove the >> plastic tube connected to the reservoir and use a syringe to suck about >> half the brake fluid out of the reservoir. >> >> I did it by myself without any trouble, but you might want an assistant >> the first time you try it. Do not allow the pressure pot to run empty, >> which will force air into the brake lines. Then you'll have to do it >> again to get rid of the air. Don't put too much pressure on the lines. >> Keep one eye on the pressure pot and the other eye on the overflowing >> fluid coming out of the reservoir. Have plenty of rags on hand, just in >> case. >> >> Good luck, >> Dennis Johnson >> Legacy, first annual inspection complete and back in the air! >> > > -- > For archives and unsub > http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/lml/List.html >