Message-ID: <000301bf68c8$7ff6eca0$2111fdd1@vaio>
From: "William T Bartlett" <WTBARTLETT@prodigy.net>
To: <lancair.list@olsusa.com>
References: <20000126052724.AAA226@truman.olsusa.com>
Subject: Subject: LNC2 Cabin Heat
Date: Wed, 26 Jan 2000 22:27:34 -0800
Mime-Version: 1.0

          <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
          <<  Lancair Builders' Mail List  >>
          <<<<<<<<<<<<<<<<--->>>>>>>>>>>>>>>> 
>>
I have found that using copper Brillo pads help heat muffs some and are
easier to put in than springs. Make sure the box says copper and not copper
coated. Also too big an intake allows the air to go through too fast and it
doesn't get a chance to heat. I get more heat from my  oil cooler than from
the tiny heatmuff. The oil cooler takes longer to heat up. I had to cut the
oil cooler air intake down to about 1/2 sq. inch. to get temp up with a
door. My only outlet is the elevator cutouts and I get a good flow from the
heat vents, unfortunately I also get a very good, cold, flow from the trim
lever cut out. I think it comes from the flap weldment cutouts which are in
a very high pressure area. I haven't figured out to seal them safely.
I have a friend who makes heatmuffs out of exhaust tubing, bent the same as
the exhaust system, then cut in half and welded to the system and connected
to a common intake and outlet. It does seem to work.
Bill N7WB
> I tried wrapping a door spring around the exhaust, which helped. However,
> the heat output is still inadequate. I was wondering if anyone has been
> successful with:
> twin heat muffs,
> a longer muff mounted on the tailpipe,
> a longer, curved heat muff near the exhaust port, or
> etc.
>


>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>
LML website:   http://www.olsusa.com/Users/Mkaye/maillist.html
Builders' Bookstore:   http://www.buildersbooks.com/lancair

Please send your photos and drawings to marvkaye@olsusa.com.
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>