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I've had a couple of requests to describe how I adjusted the Spry shock.
 I've uploaded to the forum a couple of pictures of the fixture that I
used to compress the spring prior to its removal/disassembly.  I used
5/8" dieboard for the fixture. During the last compression of the spring
the dieboard began to become "unstable".  Probably, the fixture should
be made from steel or aluminum plate.  The threaded rod is 3/8-16.

Once the spring is compressed the snap ring in the bottom assembly
exposes itself.  This I removed with a flat blade screw driver.  After
the spring tension is relieved the shock is easily removed from the
spring and spring cap.  The spring becomes uncompressed about 1" longer
than its present compressed state.  There is a hex set-screw in the side
of the bottom assembly.  Loosen this screw and the bottom assembly can
be adjusted in or out by rotation.  What's cool about working with the
shock like this is that it can be mounted in the gear, checked for
clearance, and then readjusted.  Just be sure that the shock is in its
fully extended position when you do these checks.  Do this until your
clearances are correct and then reassemble the spring to the shock.

Hal Woodruff
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