X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Sender: To: lml@lancaironline.net Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2005 12:43:08 -0400 Message-ID: X-Original-Return-Path: Received: from imo-m17.mx.aol.com ([64.12.138.207] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.0c1) with ESMTP id 683968 for lml@lancaironline.net; Sat, 27 Aug 2005 12:09:30 -0400 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=64.12.138.207; envelope-from=RWolf99@aol.com Received: from RWolf99@aol.com by imo-m17.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v38_r4.1.) id q.7f.651f6dc5 (3842) for ; Sat, 27 Aug 2005 12:08:42 -0400 (EDT) From: RWolf99@aol.com X-Original-Message-ID: <7f.651f6dc5.3041ea09@aol.com> X-Original-Date: Sat, 27 Aug 2005 12:08:41 EDT Subject: Removable 360 panel X-Original-To: lml@lancaironline.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="-----------------------------1125158921" X-Mailer: 9.0 SE for Windows sub 5017 X-Spam-Flag: NO -------------------------------1125158921 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit For Jim Nordin -- While I am still in the build phase, I did make my 360 panel removable. I am doing what many others have done -- trim out the inside of the fiberglass panel and affix to it flat 0.063 inch aluminum sheets to which the instruments are attached. (you know, aluminum panel inserts...) The fiberglass panel, now more of a frame, is attached at four points to my airframe. At each canopy sill I have a 1/4 inch think phenolic "tab" which sticks inboard from the sill about an inch or two. The panel pays flat against this tab, and a bolt holds them together. At the bottom, I bonded two 90-degree flanges to the top of the spar. The bottom of the panel is screwed to each of these flanges. I affixed the phenolic tab to the sill by hot-gluing an aluminum angle to the sill, clamping the phenolic to the angle with a cleco-clamp, and floxing it in place. Then I took off the aluminum angle and BID-taped the front face and the back face to the sill (two separate layups, done at the same time, I don't remember how many BID but probably four). I learned long ago that if you put flash tape under the hot glue, it peels off nicely. If you don't do this, you spend too much time scraping off hardened hot glue. I made the spar flanges in a similar manner, but I put flash tape on the angle and laid up the fiberglass directly onto that -- an inch or so on the spar cap and then turn the corner onto the angle. (Probably 6 BID -- wait 24 extra hours for the flange to get really hard or otherwise it may deform when you pull off the angle.) Once I pulled off the angle, I scuffed up the back face and added one more BID where the angle was (turning the L- flange into a T-flange) in order to prevent the flange from peeling off. (Very important.) As I complete my panel installation this winter, I will make sure that there are electrical connectors allowing me to disconnect the panel for easy removal. Haven't figured out how to disconnect the pitot-static and vacuum lines -- I'll probably just pull them off somewhere and buy another pitot-static check when I put it back together. Good luck. - Rob Wolf -------------------------------1125158921 Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

For Jim Nordin --

While I am still in the build phase, I did make my 360 panel=20 removable. I am doing what many others have done -- trim out the insid= e of=20 the fiberglass panel and affix to it flat 0.063 inch aluminum sheets to= =20 which the instruments are attached. (you know, aluminum panel=20 inserts...)

The fiberglass panel, now more of a frame, is attached at four points t= o my=20 airframe. At each canopy sill I have a 1/4 inch think phenolic "tab" w= hich=20 sticks inboard from the sill about an inch or two. The panel pays flat= =20 against this tab, and a bolt holds them together. At the bottom, I bon= ded=20 two 90-degree flanges to the top of the spar. The bottom of the panel=20= is=20 screwed to each of these flanges.

I affixed the phenolic tab to the sill by hot-gluing an aluminum angle=20= to=20 the sill, clamping the phenolic to the angle with a cleco-clamp, and floxing= it=20 in place. Then I took off the aluminum angle and BID-taped the front f= ace=20 and the back face to the sill (two separate layups, done at the same time, I= =20 don't remember how many BID but probably four). I learned long ago tha= t if=20 you put flash tape under the hot glue, it peels off nicely. If you don= 't=20 do this, you spend too much time scraping off hardened hot glue.

I made the spar flanges in a similar manner, but I put flash tape on th= e=20 angle and laid up the fiberglass directly onto that -- an inch or so on the=20= spar=20 cap and then turn the corner onto the angle. (Probably 6 BID -- wait 2= 4=20 extra hours for the flange to get really hard or otherwise it may deform whe= n=20 you pull off the angle.) Once I pulled off the angle, I scuffed up the= =20 back face and added one more BID where the angle was (turning the L- flange=20= into=20 a T-flange) in order to prevent the flange from peeling off. (Very=20 important.)

As I complete my panel installation this winter, I will make sure that=20 there are electrical connectors allowing me to disconnect the panel for easy= =20 removal. Haven't figured out how to disconnect the pitot-static and va= cuum=20 lines -- I'll probably just pull them off somewhere and buy=20 another pitot-static check when I put it back together.

Good luck.

- Rob Wolf

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