Return-Path: Received: from [65.33.162.219] (account marv@lancaironline.net) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro WebUser 4.2.8) with HTTP id 653695 for lml@lancaironline.net; Tue, 01 Feb 2005 11:04:39 -0500 From: "Marvin Kaye" Subject: Re: [LML] Re: Paint and primer To: lml X-Mailer: CommuniGate Pro WebUser Interface v.4.2.8 Date: Tue, 01 Feb 2005 11:04:39 -0500 Message-ID: In-Reply-To: <15.3d79896c.2f30e11d@aol.com> References: <15.3d79896c.2f30e11d@aol.com> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="ISO-8859-1"; format="flowed" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Posted for MikeEasley@aol.com: Scott, Micro is really hard to feather out flat over the softer primer or even the wing skin. I tried and it never was really straight. Every batch of micro has a different hardness so they sand differently. I ended up using micro to get it close and used some lightweight body filler for the last little bit, never more than maybe 1/32" thick. So the micro gets the shape, the body filler blends the micro to the skin, and the primer gets it very straight. I always wet out the wing surface before applying the micro. I painted the pure epoxy beyond the micro fill area by a few inches to create a barrier to protect the wing skin. Thick micro is really hard to spread thin and feather over the low area. Thin micro is easy to spread but a pain to sand. I mixed the micro really dry, so dry that it was almost impossible to spread. I held a heat gun in one had and the spreader in the other, warmed up the micro so it would spread. [another trick is to cover the micro with a sheet of peel ply before smoothing... it keeps the micro from being dragged around when you trowel it.] The WLS tends to dry with a semi-glossy surface. Even after sanding, it's still glossy in the low areas that you want to fill. I took a piece of 80 grit and roughed up the remaining glossy areas before using filler or micro. I would say that I finally got relatively good at body work about the time I was done! Mike Easley Colorado Springs