Message
One thing to
consider when building a plenum is that you are working on the cool side of the
engine. Excluding the post shutdown heat soak the plenum will rarely get
warm. I used the baffle kit side plates to get off of the cylinders and
then closed the top with about 6 BID (using normal Lancair supplies).
Other options exist. Sam James builds RV plenums and he does use a high
temp epoxy to get the job done. His plenum attaches directly to the
cylinders and thus requires the higher heat protection.
My plenum has
about 400 hours on it and is holding up nicely. It has 6 BID all around
and two little transverse carbon straps across the middle (left over from the
canopy project).
I've seen RTV BID
and yup that's what they do. It can be used up against cylinders and
such. Seems to work but not structural, just heat resistant and good
for guiding air flow. Even upon inspection I found it hard to
believe.
In regards to the
connecting of both sides I would recommend it. This will allow a more even
pressure distribution over the top of the cylinders. A dual chamber
approach may require more effort to balance the one bank of cylinders from the
other. One possible reason for this is the up traveling vs the down
traveling prop blade causing different entry affects.
You might ask the
currently Fasted LNC2 Driver in the Western Hemisphere to chime in
here as he does I believe have a dual chambered system.
My cowl is off today
if anyone wants a pic.
Larry
Henney
|