Return-Path: Sender: (Marvin Kaye) To: lml@lancaironline.net Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2004 11:07:22 -0400 Message-ID: X-Original-Return-Path: Received: from imo-m23.mx.aol.com ([64.12.137.4] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.2) with ESMTP id 383343 for lml@lancaironline.net; Sun, 29 Aug 2004 09:27:19 -0400 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=64.12.137.4; envelope-from=MikeEasley@aol.com Received: from MikeEasley@aol.com by imo-m23.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v37_r3.4.) id q.12e.4a4c3b58 (3310) for ; Sun, 29 Aug 2004 09:26:43 -0400 (EDT) From: MikeEasley@aol.com X-Original-Message-ID: <12e.4a4c3b58.2e633393@aol.com> X-Original-Date: Sun, 29 Aug 2004 09:26:43 EDT Subject: Re: [LML] Micro use for Wings X-Original-To: lml@lancaironline.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="-----------------------------1093786003" X-Mailer: 9.0 for Windows sub 5032 -------------------------------1093786003 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit For what it's worth.... I did the body work on my ES wings. Micro works great for the first 80% of getting your wings straight. If you try to feather the micro, you either start digging into the skin or sand too much micro and get a low spot. I mixed the micro a little thinner so it would squeege with a drywall knife. I used a 9" and 12" knife to spread the micro in the low spots. When you wet out the surface before speading the micro, go ahead and wet out a few inches outside the area you are going to fill. I used a paper towel to remove the excess epoxy after wetting out the surface. It gets hard and is a pain to sand. The extra epoxy will help protect the skin when you are sanding. But don't try to get it all perfectly straight with the micro, you will go crazy. Switch to high-build primer after the micro takes care of the really low areas. Sand and clean the wing really well before applying the primer. Any dust that's still settled in the weave will prevent the primer from filling those areas. Blow it off or even wash it with water and let it dry thoroughly. Roll on a heavy coat of primer, really working the roller back and forth to force the primer into the weave. I even used a bondo squeege to push the primer down into the weave. Roll on another heavy coat. Do your block sanding with 80 grit and the long boards that Lancair sells. You don't need to push too hard, let the sandpaper do the work. Change the paper often. Spray on additional coats, use a guide coat and keep going until you can get a block sanded coat of primer with no skin showing. It took several gallons on the monster ES wings to get them straight. Mike Easley Colorado Springs -------------------------------1093786003 Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

For what it's worth....

I did the body work on my ES wings. Micro works great for the fir= st 80% of getting your wings straight. If you try to feather the micro= , you either start digging into the skin or sand too much micro and get a lo= w spot. I mixed the micro a little thinner so it would squeege with a=20= drywall knife. I used a 9" and 12" knife to spread the micro in the lo= w spots. When you wet out the surface before speading the micro, go ah= ead and wet out a few inches outside the area you are going to fill. I= used a paper towel to remove the excess epoxy after wetting out the surface= . It gets hard and is a pain to sand. The extra epoxy will help=20= protect the skin when you are sanding.

But don't try to get it all perfectly straight with the micro, you will= go crazy. Switch to high-build primer after the micro takes care of t= he really low areas. Sand and clean the wing really well before applyi= ng the primer. Any dust that's still settled in the weave will prevent= the primer from filling those areas. Blow it off or even wash it with= water and let it dry thoroughly.

Roll on a heavy coat of primer, really working the roller back and fort= h to force the primer into the weave. I even used a bondo squeege to p= ush the primer down into the weave. Roll on another heavy coat.&= nbsp; Do your block sanding with 80 grit and the long boards that Lancair se= lls. You don't need to push too hard, let the sandpaper do the work.&n= bsp; Change the paper often. Spray on additional coats, use a guide co= at and keep going until you can get a block sanded coat of primer with no sk= in showing.

It took several gallons on the monster ES wings to get them straight.

Mike Easley

Colorado Springs

-------------------------------1093786003--