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Terry,
I hadn't checked it with a full load, but right now I've got quite a bit of
up angle, and allot of adjustment left. I could probably raise it 10
degrees if I adjusted the switch to the upper limit.
The lift seems to have trouble holding the nose up, if I have it retracted
very much at all. I'm not sure that it is getting over center very far the
way it is extending now. There is quite an angle backward in the front
strut.
I will load it up and check it though. That is something that I haven't
done.
Steve
-----Original Message-----
From: Rotary motors in aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net] On
Behalf Of Terry L Schubert
Sent: Sunday, June 06, 2004 5:38 PM
To: Rotary motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: bad landing update
Be sure your longerons are level or slightly nose high when considering
nose strut cutting. If the nose is lower than level, considerable
increase in ground roll will be observed due to negative angle of
incidence on the canard. Be sure you check this at gross weight and be
sure the main strut is "set or that you have rolled the plane forward 10
feet before measuring longeron levelness.
Terry Schubert
Central States Association
Newsletter Editor
On Sun, 6 Jun 2004 16:55:45 -0400 "Steve Brooks" <steve@tsisp.com>
writes:
I went back out to the airport with my camera, and a Brock's catalog,
to see
what I had to order. I am very happy to report that the nose
castor
assemble is not damaged as I thought. I spot that is scuffed up, I
thought
had been ground off, but in looking at the catalog, I saw that it
was flat
to start with.
Also my front strut also appears to be undamaged. The only thing
that it
did was to strip off the BID layer below the MKNG3&4. A stainless
steel
skid plate (NG2A) saved everything else from damage, but it
definitely
bought it in the process. The entire center of it is ground away,
but the
sides are in tact, so it didn't grind away enough of it to damage
anything
else.
Since I have to sand it down to redo the BID wrap on the forward
face, I'm
also going to shorten my nose strut at the same time. I left it
long
originally per advice in the archives, but I find that it is a
little too
long, and would be better if it were a half inch shorter. I really
hated to
tear it apart to do that, but now is a different story.
I still have the NG2 that came with my nose wheel assemble, but I
think I'll
buy another NG2A (Stainless). They appear to be pretty tough, and
saved me
from allot more damage.
I was too ticked off at myself to do a good analysis of the damage
initially, but when I went back out I was surprised when I started
looking
at it that there really wasn't much damage. The toughest will be
the hockey
puck. It's half gone (maybe 2/3), and will have to be removed and a
new one
glassed in then microed and finished. Great...I thought that I was
done
sanding.
Steve Brooks
Cozy MKIV N75CZ
Feeling lucky after all
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