Return-Path: <13brv3@bellsouth.net> Received: from imf18aec.mail.bellsouth.net ([205.152.59.66] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.2b3) with ESMTP id 85761 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Sun, 23 May 2004 11:09:55 -0400 Received: from rad ([65.6.194.9]) by imf18aec.mail.bellsouth.net (InterMail vM.5.01.06.08 201-253-122-130-108-20031117) with ESMTP id <20040523150955.CMFE1773.imf18aec.mail.bellsouth.net@rad> for ; Sun, 23 May 2004 11:09:55 -0400 From: "Russell Duffy" <13brv3@bellsouth.net> To: "'Rotary motors in aircraft'" Subject: RE: [FlyRotary] Two problems solved, 2 more pop up... Date: Sun, 23 May 2004 10:07:53 -0500 Message-ID: <014d01c440d7$b919d240$6001a8c0@rad> MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_014E_01C440AD.D043CA40" X-Priority: 3 (Normal) X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook, Build 10.0.4510 Importance: Normal In-Reply-To: X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2800.1165 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_014E_01C440AD.D043CA40 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Can run more than an hour under 2300 RPM with occasion bursts up to 35 = MAP for up to 15 sec without overheating. The big key in that was running = 80% water antifreze and some water wetter.=20 =20 I bet cleaning out your housings helped a little too :-)=20 =20 But 5 min after shutting down the turbo side of the cowl is too hot to = touch on the top and I can smell resin. It gets a little soft to tap on it = and it is starting to look a little mottled and maybe yellow (if I let my immagineation run away). =20 =20 Sounds mighty familiar. You could install a hatch, and also insulate = the cowl, which would probably be the easiest method. I had thought of = trying to enclose the turbo in a thin stainless box. The idea was to have a = blast tube that fed the turbo enclosure, and an air outlet that left the = cowling. A small fan could also feed air to the box for use on the ground after shutdown. Of course, trying to build all this around everything else is = a problem in itself, but maybe just a fan at the top of the cowl, that = ducts are out of the cowl would help. =20 =20 I also had problems melting my throttle cable, hoses, and the paint on = the mount. The turbo was in the factory shield, and these items were 1-2 = inches away, AND covered in firesleeve. For the record, firesleeve isn't very = good for this purpose. Thin stainless is better. I recently bought a roll = of .002" 321 stainless foil from McMaster Carr, which has been dandy for my current setup where the exhaust pipes run less than a half an inch from = the cowl, and mount. =20 =20 New Problem: RMI tach no good. According to my RMI engine monitor I = have about 4300 RPM at 24 MAP. At 29 MAP I still only have about 4500 RPM = and at 35 MAP I am still at 4500 RPM static. I dont buy it because it sure = sounds different (faster). So I have to install an accessory Tachometer.... =20 =20 How is the RMI hooked up? Have you asked them about the problem? I'd = be surprised if they can't find a way to help make it work. Also, there = isn't a lot of rpm increase for that last 25% of throttle travel, though the = sound will change. It might not be working as badly as you think. Do you = know any RC guys with optical tachs they use for their planes? That would be = one way to check it. =20 =20 Old problem still not fixed: Low RPM: to keep it running it needs to be rich, so much that I billow smoke down 400 yrds of hangars. It comes = out in billows every 2-3 seconds. Above 2200 RPM there are no problems (never were). Will be trying some 460cc injectors instead of the 550 primaries = I currently have. =20 =20 Sounds like you might have a sticking injector. A good set of 460's = will probably help in more ways than one. =20 =20 Dave Leonard (In red because Rusty alway takes the blue)(secret manifold = my A## - lets hear the plan)=20 =20 Nothing secret about the intake. The secret is what I'm going to do if = the intake doesn't get me the power I want :-) =20 Rusty (just another "boring" day) =20 ------=_NextPart_000_014E_01C440AD.D043CA40 Content-Type: text/html; charset="us-ascii" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Message
Can run=20 more than an hour under 2300 RPM with occasion bursts up to 35 MAP for = up to 15=20 sec without overheating.  The big key in that was running 80% water = antifreze and some water wetter. 
 
I = bet cleaning=20 out your housings helped a little too=20 :-) 
 
But 5 min=20 after shutting down the turbo side of the cowl is too hot to touch on = the top=20 and I can smell resin.  It gets a little soft to tap on it and = it is starting to look a little mottled and maybe yellow (if I let = my=20 immagineation run away).   
 
Sounds = mighty=20 familiar.  You could install a hatch, and also insulate the cowl, = which=20 would probably be the easiest method.  I had thought of trying = to=20 enclose the turbo in a thin stainless box.  The idea was to = have a=20 blast tube that fed the turbo enclosure, and an air outlet that left the = cowling.  A small fan could also feed air to the box for use on the = ground=20 after shutdown.  Of course, trying to build all = this around=20 everything else is a problem in itself, but maybe just a fan at the top = of the=20 cowl, that ducts are out of the cowl = would=20 help.  
 
I also had = problems=20 melting my throttle cable, hoses, and the paint on the=20 mount.  The turbo was in the factory shield, and these = items were=20 1-2 inches away, AND covered in firesleeve.  For the record, = firesleeve=20 isn't very good for this purpose.  Thin stainless is = better.  I=20 recently bought a roll of .002" 321 stainless foil from McMaster Carr, = which has=20 been dandy for my current setup where the exhaust pipes = run less than=20 a half an inch from the cowl, and mount.   
 
New = Problem: RMI=20 tach no good.  According to my RMI engine monitor I have about 4300 = RPM at=20 24 MAP.  At 29 MAP I still only have about 4500 RPM and at 35 MAP I = am=20 still at 4500 RPM static.  I dont buy it because it sure sounds = different=20 (faster).  So I have to install an accessory=20 Tachometer....   
 
How is the RMI=20 hooked up?  Have you asked them about the problem?  I'd = be=20 surprised if they can't find a way to help make it work.  Also, = there isn't=20 a lot of rpm increase for that last 25% of throttle travel, though the = sound=20 will change.  It might not be working as badly as you = think.  Do=20 you know any RC guys with optical tachs they use for their planes?  = That=20 would be one way to check it. 
 
Old = problem still=20 not fixed:  Low RPM: to keep it running it needs to be rich, so = much that I=20 billow smoke down 400 yrds of hangars.  It comes out in billows = every 2-3=20 seconds.  Above 2200 RPM there are no problems (never were).  = Will be=20 trying some 460cc injectors instead of the 550 primaries I currently=20 have.  
 
Sounds like you=20 might have a sticking injector.  A good set of 460's will=20 probably help in more ways than=20 one.  
 
Dave Leonard (In=20 red because Rusty alway takes the blue)(secret manifold my A## - lets=20 hear the plan) 
 
Nothing secret about the intake.  The = secret is=20 what I'm going to do if the intake doesn't get me the power I want=20 :-)
 
Rusty (just another "boring"=20 day)
 
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