----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, May 22, 2004 6:47
PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Fiberglass
Help!
Hi Ed,
I made the ducts for my SOOB four times and found
the easiest way with compound curves is BID cloth. BID cloth allows you to
wrap around anything like rubber. I also made intake elbows for the
carburetors the same way. All you need is 3 layers at most.
The other day I needed two 1 1/2" elbows on the
one rotor. using Styrofoam for the core painted with water based out door
Latex. When the Latex was dry I covert it with PVA mold release and made the
lay-up with bid cloth and VE resin. After initial cure I put the heat lamp on
it, and after it got nice hot the styrofoam started to shrink and the whole
core fell out of the elbow. Much cleaner then using gasoline.
I hope this helps a little.
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Saturday, May 22, 2004 8:51
AM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Fiberglass
Help!
Ok, you fiberglass types. I need some
guidance. I can (and have) slapped resin on glass cloth
and obtained a functional (if heavy) item. However, I am about to
start work on my new radiator ducts and I would like to
do better. My ducts will be approx. 4"x4" at the inlet and
approx. 9"x10" at the core. There might be as much as 1 psi pressure
on the walls (if I should ever be so lucky to go that fast).
There a some semi compound curves at the
corners of the duct as it slopes inward from the top and bottom from the
core to the inlet.
I need your recommendation about the weight and
weave of the cloth. I have previously used the cloth tape as it was
easy to manage, but it required several layers and it is a bit heavy.
Like I said functional but not pretty nor light.
I would like your guidance on how best to apply
the sheet to the mold. In the past, I basically wrap the foam mold in
duct tape and the lay resin on it followed by raps of the cloth tape and
more resine. I am told that using sheet rather than the tape and first
laying it out on aluminum foil to wet it and then cut it in sizes say to fit
a side of the 4 side foam mold with a bit for overlap with the adjacent
sides was one way to go.
Any suggestions would be
appreciated.
Ed
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary
Powered
Matthews, NC