Return-Path: Received: from access.aic-fl.com ([204.49.76.2] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.2b3) with ESMTP id 84875 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Sat, 22 May 2004 18:47:13 -0400 Received: from homep276y68tk5 (unverified [204.49.76.47]) by access.aic-fl.com (Rockliffe SMTPRA 4.5.6) with SMTP id for ; Sat, 22 May 2004 17:48:16 -0500 Message-ID: <001501c4404e$bc9589c0$2f4c31cc@homep276y68tk5> From: "Richard" To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" References: Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Fiberglass Help! Date: Sat, 22 May 2004 17:47:18 -0500 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0012_01C44024.D33F0720" X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2800.1106 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2800.1106 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0012_01C44024.D33F0720 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Hi Ed, I made the ducts for my SOOB four times and found the easiest way with = compound curves is BID cloth. BID cloth allows you to wrap around = anything like rubber. I also made intake elbows for the carburetors the = same way. All you need is 3 layers at most.=20 The other day I needed two 1 1/2" elbows on the one rotor. using = Styrofoam for the core painted with water based out door Latex. When the = Latex was dry I covert it with PVA mold release and made the lay-up with = bid cloth and VE resin. After initial cure I put the heat lamp on it, = and after it got nice hot the styrofoam started to shrink and the whole = core fell out of the elbow. Much cleaner then using gasoline. I hope this helps a little. Richard Sohn N-2071U unicorn@gdsys.net www.gdsys.net/WWWmembers/unicorn/ ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Ed Anderson=20 To: Rotary motors in aircraft=20 Sent: Saturday, May 22, 2004 8:51 AM Subject: [FlyRotary] Fiberglass Help! Ok, you fiberglass types. I need some guidance. I can (and have) = slapped resin on glass cloth and obtained a functional (if heavy) item. = However, I am about to start work on my new radiator ducts and I would = like to do better. My ducts will be approx. 4"x4" at the inlet and = approx. 9"x10" at the core. There might be as much as 1 psi pressure on = the walls (if I should ever be so lucky to go that fast).=20 There a some semi compound curves at the corners of the duct as it = slopes inward from the top and bottom from the core to the inlet. =20 I need your recommendation about the weight and weave of the cloth. I = have previously used the cloth tape as it was easy to manage, but it = required several layers and it is a bit heavy. Like I said functional = but not pretty nor light. I would like your guidance on how best to apply the sheet to the mold. = In the past, I basically wrap the foam mold in duct tape and the lay = resin on it followed by raps of the cloth tape and more resine. I am = told that using sheet rather than the tape and first laying it out on = aluminum foil to wet it and then cut it in sizes say to fit a side of = the 4 side foam mold with a bit for overlap with the adjacent sides was = one way to go. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Ed Ed Anderson RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered Matthews, NC ------=_NextPart_000_0012_01C44024.D33F0720 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Hi Ed,
 
I made the ducts for my SOOB four times = and found=20 the easiest way with compound curves is BID cloth. BID cloth allows you = to wrap=20 around anything like rubber. I also made intake elbows for the = carburetors the=20 same way. All you need is 3 layers at most.
The other day I needed two 1 1/2" = elbows on the one=20 rotor. using Styrofoam for the core painted with water based out door = Latex.=20 When the Latex was dry I covert it with PVA mold release and made the = lay-up=20 with bid cloth and VE resin. After initial cure I put the heat lamp on = it, and=20 after it got nice hot the styrofoam started to shrink and the whole core = fell=20 out of the elbow. Much cleaner then using gasoline.
I hope this helps a = little.
 
 
Richard Sohn
N-2071U
unicorn@gdsys.net
www.gdsys.net/WWWmember= s/unicorn/
 
 
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Ed=20 Anderson
Sent: Saturday, May 22, 2004 = 8:51=20 AM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Fiberglass = Help!

Ok, you fiberglass types.  I = need some=20 guidance. I can (and have) slapped resin on glass cloth = and obtained=20 a functional (if heavy) item.  However, I am about to start work = on my=20 new radiator ducts and I would like to do better.  My ducts = will be=20 approx. 4"x4" at the inlet and approx. 9"x10" at the core.  There = might=20 be as much as 1 psi pressure on the walls (if I should ever be so = lucky to go=20 that fast).
 
There a some semi compound curves at = the corners=20 of the duct as it slopes inward from the top and bottom from the core = to the=20 inlet. 
 
I need your recommendation about the = weight and=20 weave of the cloth.  I have previously used the cloth tape as it = was easy=20 to manage, but it required several layers and it is a bit heavy.  = Like I=20 said functional but not pretty nor light.
 
I would like your guidance on how = best to apply=20 the sheet to the mold. In the past, I basically wrap the foam = mold in=20 duct tape and the lay resin on it followed by raps of the cloth tape = and more=20 resine.  I am told that using sheet rather than the tape and = first laying=20 it out on aluminum foil to wet it and then cut it in sizes say to fit = a side=20 of the 4 side foam mold with a bit for overlap with the adjacent sides = was one=20 way to go.
 
Any suggestions would be=20 appreciated.
 
Ed
 
 
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary=20 Powered
Matthews, NC
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