Return-Path: Received: from [24.25.9.101] (HELO ms-smtp-02-eri0.southeast.rr.com) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 4.2b3) with ESMTP id 84638 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Sat, 22 May 2004 14:59:46 -0400 Received: from EDWARD (clt25-78-058.carolina.rr.com [24.25.78.58]) by ms-smtp-02-eri0.southeast.rr.com (8.12.10/8.12.7) with SMTP id i4MIxgNs009083 for ; Sat, 22 May 2004 14:59:43 -0400 (EDT) Message-ID: <001401c4402e$f3cedbf0$2402a8c0@EDWARD> From: "Ed Anderson" To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" References: Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Fiberglass Help! Date: Sat, 22 May 2004 14:59:47 -0400 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0011_01C4400D.6C733AA0" X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2800.1409 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2800.1409 X-Virus-Scanned: Symantec AntiVirus Scan Engine This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C4400D.6C733AA0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Thanks, Steve Clearly BID is the way to go and dump the tape. I see you had your = second flight, keep two things in mind, you are running boost (producing = HP) and yet are flying at fairly slow speeds - the worst of cooling = conditions. I have climb at 120 MPH IAS if I am running full throttle = in order to keep the temps stabilized. In almost all cases, if you are = totally cool for take off then you are over cooled for cruise. Given = the OAT temps, I wouldn't worry about it (at least not yet). Wait until = you get the airspeed up to your normal climb speed and see what that = does. Keep your test program advancing incrementally as you are doing and you = will get all the bugs out soonest. =20 Regarding the surge, MOST of the time the rotary will show surge when = the air/Fuel mixture is too lean. =20 Ed Ed Anderson RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered Matthews, NC ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Steve Brooks=20 To: Rotary motors in aircraft=20 Sent: Saturday, May 22, 2004 2:27 PM Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Fiberglass Help! Ed, Having built A Cozy, I learned a couple thing about fiberglass. First = of all for complex curves, you need to use BID cloth, It will flex and = contour to most shapes. Also, I would definitely use the BID from a = roll (like fabric), and definitely not BID tape, which has a bound edge. = Also cut the selvedge edge off of the BID cloth. If you have any areas = that have excess BID, just cut a dart in it, to remove the excess cloth. = Try to get the excess on the next layer in a different spot if = possible. Keep you epoxy warm. Heat it with a lamp, if you're doing it in the = morning. I used MGS, and loved it. It is thin, wets out good, and has = a very high TG ratio. If you have another epoxy already, just warm it up to get it thin, and = brush it on sparingly. You want it to wet out, but definitely not = running off. Brush it on, and then hit any white spots with a little = more. If you're doing 3 layers, wet in your first two, but when you put on = the 3rd, don't add any more epoxy. Stipple it with the brush. Using a = hair dryer will help pull the epoxy up the the new layer. If you have = any white spots left that just won't wet out. Use just a dab of epoxy. My .02 Steve Brooks -----Original Message----- From: Rotary motors in aircraft = [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net]On Behalf Of Ed Anderson Sent: Saturday, May 22, 2004 9:52 AM To: Rotary motors in aircraft Subject: [FlyRotary] Fiberglass Help! Ok, you fiberglass types. I need some guidance. I can (and have) = slapped resin on glass cloth and obtained a functional (if heavy) item. = However, I am about to start work on my new radiator ducts and I would = like to do better. My ducts will be approx. 4"x4" at the inlet and = approx. 9"x10" at the core. There might be as much as 1 psi pressure on = the walls (if I should ever be so lucky to go that fast).=20 There a some semi compound curves at the corners of the duct as it = slopes inward from the top and bottom from the core to the inlet. =20 I need your recommendation about the weight and weave of the cloth. = I have previously used the cloth tape as it was easy to manage, but it = required several layers and it is a bit heavy. Like I said functional = but not pretty nor light. I would like your guidance on how best to apply the sheet to the = mold. In the past, I basically wrap the foam mold in duct tape and the = lay resin on it followed by raps of the cloth tape and more resine. I = am told that using sheet rather than the tape and first laying it out on = aluminum foil to wet it and then cut it in sizes say to fit a side of = the 4 side foam mold with a bit for overlap with the adjacent sides was = one way to go. Any suggestions would be appreciated. Ed Ed Anderson RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered Matthews, NC ------=_NextPart_000_0011_01C4400D.6C733AA0 Content-Type: text/html; charset="iso-8859-1" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Thanks, Steve
 
    Clearly BID is the = way to go and=20 dump the tape.  I see you had your second flight, keep two things = in mind,=20 you are running boost (producing HP) and yet are flying at fairly slow = speeds -=20 the worst of cooling conditions.  I have climb at 120 MPH IAS if I = am=20 running full throttle in order to keep the temps stabilized.  In = almost all=20 cases, if you are totally cool for take off then you are over cooled for = cruise.  Given the OAT temps, I wouldn't worry about it (at least = not=20 yet).  Wait until you get the airspeed up to your normal climb = speed and=20 see what that does.
 
Keep your test program advancing = incrementally as=20 you are doing and you will get all the bugs out soonest.  =
 
Regarding the surge, MOST of the time = the rotary=20 will show surge when the air/Fuel mixture is too lean.  =
 
Ed
 
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Steve = Brooks
Sent: Saturday, May 22, 2004 = 2:27=20 PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: = Fiberglass=20 Help!

Ed,
Having built A Cozy, I learned a couple thing about = fiberglass. =20 First of all for complex curves, you need to use BID cloth,  It = will flex=20 and contour to most shapes.  Also, I would definitely use the BID = from a=20 roll (like fabric), and definitely not BID tape, which has a bound = edge. =20 Also cut the selvedge edge off of the BID cloth.  If you have any = areas=20 that have excess BID, just cut a dart in it, to remove the excess = cloth. =20 Try to get the excess on the next layer in a different spot if=20 possible.
 
Keep=20 you epoxy warm.  Heat it with a lamp, if you're doing it in the=20 morning.  I used MGS, and loved it.  It is thin, wets out = good, and=20 has a very high TG ratio.
If=20 you have another epoxy already, just warm it up to get it thin, and = brush it=20 on sparingly.  You want it to wet out, but definitely not running = off.  Brush it on, and then hit any white spots with a little=20 more.
 
If=20 you're doing 3 layers, wet in your first two, but when you put on the = 3rd,=20 don't add any more epoxy.  Stipple it with the brush.  Using = a hair=20 dryer will help pull the epoxy up the the new layer.  If you have = any=20 white spots left that just won't wet out.  Use just a dab of=20 epoxy.
 
My=20 .02
 
Steve Brooks
 
-----Original Message-----
From: Rotary motors in = aircraft=20 [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net]On Behalf Of Ed=20 Anderson
Sent: Saturday, May 22, 2004 9:52 = AM
To: Rotary=20 motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Fiberglass=20 Help!

Ok, you fiberglass types.  I = need some=20 guidance. I can (and have) slapped resin on glass cloth=20 and obtained a functional (if heavy) item.  However, I am = about to=20 start work on my new radiator ducts and I would like to=20 do better.  My ducts will be approx. 4"x4" at the inlet = and=20 approx. 9"x10" at the core.  There might be as much as 1 psi = pressure=20 on the walls (if I should ever be so lucky to go that fast). =
 
There a some semi compound curves = at the=20 corners of the duct as it slopes inward from the top and bottom from = the=20 core to the inlet. 
 
I need your recommendation about = the weight and=20 weave of the cloth.  I have previously used the cloth tape as = it was=20 easy to manage, but it required several layers and it is a bit = heavy. =20 Like I said functional but not pretty nor light.
 
I would like your guidance on how = best to apply=20 the sheet to the mold. In the past, I basically wrap the foam = mold in=20 duct tape and the lay resin on it followed by raps of the cloth tape = and=20 more resine.  I am told that using sheet rather than the tape = and first=20 laying it out on aluminum foil to wet it and then cut it in sizes = say to fit=20 a side of the 4 side foam mold with a bit for overlap with the = adjacent=20 sides was one way to go.
 
Any suggestions would be=20 appreciated.
 
Ed
 
 
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary=20 Powered
Matthews, = NC
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