Mailing List flyrotary@lancaironline.net Message #6937
From: Ed Anderson <eanderson@carolina.rr.com>
Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Requesting more thoughts on cooling
Date: Wed, 31 Mar 2004 23:00:49 -0500
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Message
John, your heating does not seem that unsuall to me.  While it, of course, varies from installation to installation, if I run WOT from more than 2-3 minutes my coolant temp will be pushing 200F.  Now, my radiator ducts are removable and on the ground that helps my cooling a great deal.  So if I plan on doing a lot to high power run ups I pull the hinge pins and remove the ducts for more low speed air flow across the radiators.  I think a 15 minute 4000 rpm run up would cause my engine to overheat on the ground depending on OAT. 
 
Now if I restrict my rpm to 3000 or less then it will stablize around 180F, again  depending on OAT.
 
I ended up putting  louvers in my Cowl as the heat buildup even after engine shut down would be enough to make the top of the cowl too hot to place your arm on.  I figure the hot air need somplace to get out from under the cowl than the bottom.
 
I tried putting thermostats in my engine on two occassion and ended up overheating the engines  until the metal pinged on cool down (ugly sound).  Fortunately no damage even though it went to 250F on one occassion.  So I decided just to leave the thermostat out.  Other folks apparently use them with apparently great success.  My cruise oil and coolant temp varies between 160-190F depending on OAT but normally it stabilizes at 180F.  
 
I generally taxi out and do a run up to around 3500-4000 while taxing to check both ignitions are functioning with Controller B, then switch back to controller A and reducing throttle to a fast taxi around 2500-2700.  At the end of the ruwnway, I then swing into the wind and do a WOT engine check at 5200rpm+ for fuel, and oil pressure, fuel flow rate and air/fuel ratio indication.  If all meet my critieria then I release brakes and launch.
 
I think I would taxi to the end of the run way, run as high an rpm as you brakes will hold and wait until the coolant temps reaches 170F and then accelerate until you need to shut down to keep from becoming airborne (or go off the end of the runway) then check your coolant temp. 
 
It is not uncommon for the engine to put out more waste heat than the cooling system can handle on take off an initial climb out.  So you are running a cooling deficit until you get sufficient airspeed to reject the waste heat.  For the RV thats approx 120MPH TAS, Should be somewhere near that for a canard or perhaps a bit higher if you ducting is a bit less than optiumum
 
FWIW
 
Ed
 
Ed Anderson
RV-6A N494BW Rotary Powered
Matthews, NC
----- Original Message -----
From: John Slade
Sent: Wednesday, March 31, 2004 8:34 PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Requesting more thoughts on cooling

Guys,
I'm signed off and ready to fly, but I'm a little concerned about cooling issues. I don't want to melt anything in the first go around the pattern.
 
I'm finding that the engine gets REALLY hot after about 10 - 15 minutes ground running, and I'm wondering if that's to be expected, or if I have a cooling problem.  Maybe I should just taxi gently to the runway and launch to get airflow as soon as possible.
 
For example, today I ran it up and down the taxiway for a few minutes at fairly low speeds and around 2500 - 3000rpm. Then I did some static runups (maybe 3800 - 4000 rpm - all the brakes will hold) and some EC2 tuning. Then I did some mode 1 programing at various rpm. During this run I watched the water temp gradually go up until it was over 200 and I shut her down. The oil was still down around 140 - 160. I took the cowl off and found that everything in the engine compartment was HOT. Radiator, oil coolers, hoses, intake, the cowl itself. Apart from giving my cowl a REAL GOOD post cure I dont think I've done any damage, but this doesnt give me a lot of confidence about whether I'll make it around the pattern.
 
The thermostat is now in place, and I get the feeling that I'd be much better without it. Once the engine gets a little hot the water temps seem to "run away" if I'm producing any kind of power. So... to remove the thermostat [3rd gen rew engine] I have to remove the water pump and have the by-pass hole welded shut - right?
 
Do you 13B drivers tend to just taxi out at low rpm then launch? Would your engine overheat if you did a 15 minute medium power runup? I'd appreciate any general thoughts, or comments on how much ground running I should expect to get away with before the temps get too high. Anything else I should check?
 
Regards,
John Slade
 
 
 
 
 
 
 
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