Message-ID: <406A4217.9030503@netdoor.com>
Date: Tue, 30 Mar 2004 21:59:19 -0600
From: Charlie & Tupper England <cengland@netdoor.com>
Reply-To: cengland@netdoor.com
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To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Fuel tank
References: <list-3131726@logan.com>
In-Reply-To: <list-3131726@logan.com>
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I somehow missed the need for it to function as an aux tank. (How will 
you transfer the fuel from itself to itself when you fuel it in the 
plane from it in the truck? ;-)  )

The tanks on RV-x's are .032 AL with ribs spaced about every 9", 
cantelevered off the spar, & extend forward about 20". Rated for 6 G's 
(9 G's ultimate). I'm pretty sure that the alloy isn't weldable.  Any 
welding shop that does heliarc should be able to tell you what alloy can 
be welded. If you want to go the proseal/rivet route, I'll look at the 
alloy # tomorrow. Since you intend to go portable as well, you would 
probably need to go up a guage  or 2 for impact resistance.

Charlie

(Almost ready to start prosealing my RV-7 tanks.)

Marvin Kaye wrote:

> Posted for "marc" <cardmarc@charter.net>:
>
> Charlie,
> Ahah, your reasoning is flawless, IF I just wanted to transport fuel in
> a pickup truck bed (you could go to Tractor Supply and buy the units
> they have pre-made for that and forget about it-farmers have dozens of
> those as do heavy equipment contractors so they are commercially
> available)- BUT- I have designed the shape of the tank to fit INSIDE the
> airplane behind the back seat as a 'long range auxiliary tank' and want
> to use it for BOTH uses (must have a)-low point water drain(s), b) vent
> with roll over protection c) fuel filler provisions to attach to aux
> inlet with backflow valve d) recess to allow a entire Mazda fuel pump
> assy. to fit in the top side and reach bottom of tank e) inlet/outlets
> if not in fuel pump assy, f) fuel gauge [although the great thing about
> using a stock Mazda pump assy is that it has the pump, the pre-filter,
> the fuel float for the (mostly very accurate) stock gauge, and the low
> level warning light all in one assy!] g) tiedown provisions h) what ever
> else I have forgotten but will have to add.  I have the patterns made
> from cardboard to fit the area for the shape and size of the tank and
> whatever inlets/outlets/pumps/gauges/openings I need. Gussets with holes
> in them (water at the bottom must get to low point drain without being
> blocked) and a baffle around the pickup to prevent sloshing and
> starvation in unusual attitudes near pickup hose. How's them for apples.
> It was a lot of work doing that.
>  What gauge AL would you use for such a tank?-remember this tank must be
> self supporting and rest on the floor.
> Places like Summit Racing will make one for me (plastic or alum, and
> even with foam retardant filling supposedly compatible with all
> gasolines) but that way is not the spirit of "homebuilding"! Plus I want
> to perfect my al welding skills. So it will be hydrostatically tested as
> well.
>
> Marc Wiese
>
>
>
>> Being lazy & cheap, my 1st response would be to pay $10 for a steel 55
>> gal drum. If you really want an AL tank, why not just use a/c grade AL
>> sheet & assemble the 6 sides & internal stiffening ribs with proseal &
>> rivets?
>>
>> If you really want to weld, how about welding the lid on one of those
>
> AL
>
>> tool boxes made to hang in the bed of a pickup?
>
>
>>>  Homepage:  http://www.flyrotary.com/
>>>  Archive:   http://lancaironline.net/lists/flyrotary/List.html
>>
>