X-Junk-Score: 0 [] X-Cloudmark-Score: 0 [] X-Cloudmark-Analysis: v=2.3 cv=G+5i7Os5 c=1 sm=1 tr=0 a=b0t/4yIpjgUIHaEJP7s7lQ==:117 a=jpOVt7BSZ2e4Z31A5e1TngXxSK0=:19 a=x7bEGLp0ZPQA:10 a=Fee85h93u3AA:10 a=J70Eh1EUuV4A:10 a=Pdsg-lemJbkA:10 a=Ia-xEzejAAAA:8 a=pGLkceISAAAA:8 a=UKPAHat8AAAA:8 a=o1OHuDzbAAAA:8 a=x-75qrxFAAAA:8 a=7g1VtSJxAAAA:8 a=a45UzwrQ_8uFqAkFH-IA:9 a=FyhpJL6cSeWoZnCP:21 a=TTkcLA6GT_Btxpg4:21 a=QEXdDO2ut3YA:10 a=4hVreLlt7OsA:10 a=Qa1je4BO31QA:10 a=K_Pv9SaLS-kA:10 a=gvSQh4r-fQ0A:10 a=5PwCdi_ogmkoYDZR:21 a=ckRbdL9MgIRyRawZ:21 a=u1VRwsyCGchzXOo9:21 a=Urk15JJjZg1Xo0ryW_k8:22 a=Fc6xXSS-RxGHxrvp76Qp:22 a=5YQ6H4ZxyGn-KoBYtt8s:22 a=pSfGKr4syse1NfsQC3dY:22 a=grOzbf7U_OpcSX4AJOnl:22 From: "lehanover lehanover@aol.com" Received: from sonic317-27.consmr.mail.bf2.yahoo.com ([74.6.129.82] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 6.2.14) with ESMTPS id 12917935 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Mon, 02 Sep 2019 23:40:07 -0400 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=74.6.129.82; envelope-from=lehanover@aol.com DKIM-Signature: v=1; a=rsa-sha256; c=relaxed/relaxed; d=aol.com; s=a2048; t=1567481992; bh=FbUQgEdS74WS5Gyub2gK/FGr/095WFDvC6CDizEOUn4=; h=Date:From:To:In-Reply-To:References:Subject:From:Subject; b=OPI9zgw40RgnVz1RIi0fLcZywSgZgBBIVfsPSm9eCwN8kmTdrFrMXBI+bvz+iOGPpKocbBsmUY7Y6Qi2wMcNAC+4ADjpLcFUAVh9JhgOQw5E0qHXYMF40WD8/u4Cp4fOqQYkpnblWjOfHqoBs63Fwcl0Hl3bQI6r3JHBf6lWAEt5knhFL8TaRMHhVrd1R1aQtDDsde+SksDqGRBNFtQRUrLgzMGHHLnx98IATMpSyUNtaSzHRoz+yO+v3JSkSFBPLgWxCJzaZduC83wpvMQL+00zOLxxxiuMM45dMLGwGuYkZdwqToO8zMaITQ4/knDJ/xIDUZnNpxpCVkSPztdReA== X-YMail-OSG: ezsbB6UVM1krdrI5AwsFtlx6g2ERZzP59yh5UoZJRElK8lOx4h3wYqe0DvQFmvv E99jOvzqOYktECHno5P3eOgKHS1Urb2cZvROVo73JsIuVeGYQwRWmeD1RGplB2zc02RIGH.aQel_ Q.oBLCfplKHvlmGnllxrij3rmikTf6DjdowFLxgTS5O0VYo3C9UHO5B96QxAbtj6UMQOZ3bp8P5P 9xsJrlHw1BZvjfXBXgfUaJzQFIvHUkuxMEf18R4MX4QAPg28knZWcfyeJS5EDMqUgDAyaTH26mFt P0DHZDyxyUONTxA_2Rg9zMITAzE9tfkpnTr_L6WmmKZmvG3quUSFtjBQNzmKauV5m3zZpIe4AXUg RT1inR6iJPboUAetH5ndSCPHvrAwekYeGADnx5KSlkymLL4RhEnz5v.dMjphe40OyOvahKdwpryC kIIEHMAmRX_xu2zpRaX452HO2ZAutwcAfCj5xLRYqvEMMLF6eA4Tq0hWIevZBvoAXGD10cg6EpnV Kb0t2YSdToKU1dEUrzqbuIsESrMgDxOpEsXdfyfgENvgDjmNcLtqM3cgjm6j4q8KV7u07_PCDPvh D6.hwtrzToRR8mz80m0doiBWYCK86Kwqs0jN74kO47w8WQPaPNaJSSmaMMeVPbFVNIIpU2AYqYAC JabeyrMc6FJFvGK.DbTcFagvUbSu98CQHIVFvJuLa7SxAHaF5IA5SjzQrML_C3dMGKtJtzSSK2HX WF8WeLiWSwQiYXJbNxI0ZBgGUVirZqiArhLLDyzIGsckYJoRQoC_.rbkqOm9PH..JjhVLIjhb02y AlLRZsCinlguC4OQa4n4_vqL1j18brudirV_gvwRj9Cqi1cU9aT0y1loiDQVHMVYS8ZMQLftxgV4 AzHliMy8PLpw1tkT6_F3TNqmDc0f79CSj8p_LeHRqfdLeBeBZkFnpNP1uf8SURn1lfXA9qXHY6Z5 n5vfTPpKmcHeP.sOC9LnvoNZ0x0Y1zuPlG3tpw4v_cAbRKHhJ__gQq.uuD0et9sIhJpUdZb.TL8A _TdlrNSgFUmQVXhS.wykQI6hMGvNWK9Rh6zrVLCaKOtPE8KYH8DjkDcEllbX_yslO99A_Zd3v86p UkETAWKthQ_ML5YmhZ.1S5P580Hxt80_PZ1hSgo3f9ofNpy.GAcaeA60vB_NqVOYBfIBcPtFp6cU vb4v2B6QVbKDsEOMHsTTLVrEIgm9xxph2 Received: from sonic.gate.mail.ne1.yahoo.com by sonic317.consmr.mail.bf2.yahoo.com with HTTP; Tue, 3 Sep 2019 03:39:52 +0000 Date: Tue, 3 Sep 2019 03:39:51 +0000 (UTC) To: flyrotary@lancaironline.net Message-ID: <872545499.955983.1567481991432@mail.yahoo.com> In-Reply-To: References: Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: The Story of an unecessary rebuild MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_Part_955982_1088926383.1567481991428" X-Mailer: WebService/1.1.14303 aolloki Apache-HttpClient/4.5.7 (Java/1.8.0_144) Content-Length: 30002 ------=_Part_955982_1088926383.1567481991428 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=UTF-8 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable You know that all side seals are a bit too long and need to be fitted in ev= ery case. My jig is an old rotor with a corner cut off. A drill press with = a small stone that is the size of the corner seal. This produces the correc= t shape for the end of the seal. In olden times only one end of the seal ha= d the right shape. The other end was just square. And all are too long. =20 Except when the bearing is pushed in incorrectly or misaligned and part of = the damn tab has missed its slot. There is not actual contact between the crank and any bearing surface. The = crank is smaller than the bearing ID by several thousandths of an inch. The= gap of course, is for oil. High oil pressure is used to move overheated oi= l off of the bearing face more quickly, in racing and other high RPM use. I= t has nothing to do with supporting the crank with hydraulic pressure. You = must count on the film strength of the oil for that. That is why there is s= uch a thing as racing oil. Synthetic oils and more so in racing synthetics,= absorb heat quickly, and give it up quickly and have stupid high film stre= ngth. They are also stable at much higher temps than conventional oils. Bearings are soft. Cranks are hard. The further apart in hardness the longe= r the bearing will last. Lead Indium, Aluminum, Antimony, Brass, Copper and= Tin and many alloys of all are used in plain bearings. All have alarmingly= low melting points. The highest oil temps are found in the interface betwe= en crank and bearing material. So, the oil temp in the sump will not show y= ou the temp in the interface. Fortunately the bearings have huge area for t= he loads involved. High oil temps cause lowered HP.=C2=A0 Starting at ambie= nt and getting bad above 160. Coolant above 180 is the same deal.=C2=A0Half= of the engine heat is in the oil. Duty cycle for a car is about 30%. For a race car its about 90%. For an air= plane it is closer to 100%. You do not climb into your RX-7 and go across Texas at full throttle. (100%= duty cycle). You do fly across Texas in your plane at full throttle (100%)= duty cycle. Lynn E. Hanover=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0=20 In a message dated 9/2/2019 5:50:45 PM Eastern Standard Time, flyrotary@lan= caironline.net writes: Dave, DO NOT take fine sand paper to your new (or old )bearings! =C2=A0The fine g= rit will embed itself in the metal and you will wear =C2=A0out the eccentri= c shaft in a couple hundred hours. =C2=A0 Scrape them, but no fine sand pap= er! Bob Darryl Sent from my iPad On Sep 2, 2019, at 10:43 AM, David Leonard wdleonard@gmail.com wrote: Hi Bobby, most definately I had made sure the rotors were clear, along with= most of the other tricks (eh, except hot coffee).=C2=A0 At this point I am= still 90% sure that the problem was low compression due to wear and tear. Now that I have completed the re-build add tested and/or replaced every oth= er component of the eletrical and fuel systems I am still convinced that my= problem is once again low compression (I cant get it to start at all now).= =C2=A0 My leading theory is that during the rebuild I took Lynn's advise a = little too seriously and did not file down my side seals enough.=C2=A0 Perh= aps if I can just get it started one time, those side seals will break-in q= uickly and all will be good.=C2=A0 But, more than likely I will need to t t= he ecentriremove the engine from the plane again and take it apart just so = I can get a file on those side seals.=C2=A0 While there I will also take so= me fine sand paper to my new bearings so they are a little less tight. The act of writting that tale in electrons helped me to figure out my ongoi= ng woes, that are difficult to face because of the work involved in another= re-build. At this point it is an internal battle betweeen wanting my plane back and n= ot wanting to dive into another rebuild.=C2=A0 Its a lot like childbirth. O= ver time the pain of the rebuild will be forgotten and the desire for my pl= ane will increase to the point where I am ready to endure the proess again. I really thank everyone for the comments and input.=C2=A0 It reassured me t= hat I was not missing something easy to fix that I had not thought of. David LeonardTurbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY229 mph qualifying time at Reno 2011 (pr= obably 300+ hp then)1100+ hours over 14 years flying6 rebuilds over the yea= rs, probably about to be 7.=C2=A0 (But this was the first time I replaced t= he iron side housings) On Mon, Sep 2, 2019, 6:51 AM Bobby J. Hughes bhughes@qnsi.net wrote: Dave, Have you attempted a hot start with the fuel pumps off to clear the engine?= Leaking injectors after shutdown? Bobby Sent from my iPad On Aug 31, 2019, at 2:38 PM, Matt Boiteau mattboiteau@gmail.com wrote: I have a fuel temp sensor on my fuel return. Actually it's a GM flex sensor= , that detects ethanol % and gives temperature as a bonus. When I've shut d= own, I have seen the fuel temps climb to 120F (and probably more). It takes= about 10-20seconds to turn on the fuel pump, to see the temperatures start= to drop back down to 90F.=C2=A0 Hard to start when the fuel temps that high on a hot engine. - Matt Boiteau On 2019-08-31 11:18:54 AM, Bobby J. Hughes bhughes@qnsi.net wrote: I agree with Finn. Alternator noise would be my first guess. You could try = adding a filter and dedicated ground from alternator back to FWF main groun= d point. Jumper cable for temporary ground wire. Hot fuel should not be pos= sible with return lines. Bobby=C2=A0 Sent from my iPad On Aug 31, 2019, at 8:01 AM, Finn Lassen finn.lassen@verizon.net wrote: Tried to replace the alternator? Really good ground battery to alternator? Can you put an oscilloscope one the power to coils and supply line to the E= C2? (I'm thinking noise from alternator. Some bad connection somewhere when hot= .) You know, one way to troubleshoot intermittent electronic failures it to he= at individual components up and/or cool down (a lot) until you find the int= ermittently bad component. Finn On 8/31/2019 1:19 AM, David Leonard wdleonard@gmail.com wrote: Interject when you figure out my underlying issue.?? Please! It started about a year ago.?? I was putting a lot of hours on N4VY (Turbo = rotary RV-6) commuting for work.?? One day I flew to Ramona to meet up with= my formation flying buddies.?? After the brief we went to start our planes= but mine wouldn't start and I had to bow out of the flight.?? It would cra= nk and almost catch, but I wore out my battery trying.?? After recharging f= or a couple hours it started up normally.?? I flew home and wrote it off as= some sort of start procedure SNAFU.?? I use Tracys EC2. But that was the start of a long succession of difficult starts when pre-wa= rmed, starting fine when cold.?? Sometimes leaving me stranded at a gas sto= p until the engine cooled.?? While in a safe place I tested air starts and = there seemed to be no issue there just turning the fuel pumps back on with = the prop spinning. Then it started doing something else strange.?? After starting it would run= really rough?? whenever the alternator output got above 55amps or so.?? By= rough I mean sputtering and resisting advancing the throttle by sagging an= d occasionally backfire.?? If I had been cranking for a long period it coul= d take a minute for the amps to drop and the engine to run normally. I started by checking for loose wires and replacing the spark plugs. (No im= proveement) So then I replaced the battery, it still seemed strong but maybe the voltag= e was dropping with cranking or somethng.?? I got interested in Li Ion batt= eries and splurged on the Big one.?? It increased my total enerrgy storage,= CCAs, and decreased weight by over 10#.?? Expensive but worth it consideri= ng they are also supposed to last longer. But it turns out the old battery was fine after.?? Not only did it not solv= e the problem, but because the Li Ion battery can take a much faster charge= , it would max out the alternator at least briefly on EVERY start, making t= he problem worse. Next was fuel filter and spark plug wires, no improvement. The condition continued to slowly worsen despite trying richer mixtures of = 2-stroke oil and or MMO.?? So I finally grounded it. My thought at this point was that the compression had finally deggraded to = the point where compression was not enough for combustion unless turning re= ally fast.?? Perhaps the extra drag from full output of the alternator made= the condition worse.?? And when it was hot the rotor housings expanded jus= t enough to really kill the compression.?? The side iron plates in that eng= ine had the better part of 1000 flight hours plus unknown time in an RX7.??= Compression measured mid 20s on both rotors, for what thats worth.?? Time = for a rebuild. I went all out.?? All new rotor and side housings, seals, springs, o-rings = and the necessary aircraft mods to those parts.?? (fittings, etc..., EGR pa= ssages pluged)?? I also replaced the LS1 coils and the coil harness. And??? Nothing.?? Fuel flow and injector gross function verified.?? All spa= rks verified during cranking with a timing light.?? Tried a different CAS j= ust for kicks.?? The engine is a little tight because it is new, compressio= n is not spectacular cause the seals have not set, perhaps the apex seal li= ttle bits are still glued on.. Jump in here anytime. You know? You are right, I just need to disconnect the alternator and keep = cranking until it finally catches and gets a little bit of a break-in.???? This talk has been really helpful for me. Dave Leonard(the forever optimist)Also going to switch to full synthetic 2-= stroke oil without MMO.?? The new engine will never know how good it has it= .?? On Thu, Aug 29, 2019, 10:18 PM Matt Boiteau mattboiteau@gmail.com wrote: Well ran into a little bit of a snag on my RX8 engine???. While trying different things to cool down the oil, during high-speed taxi = tests I managed to blow out the temporary clear level tube on my coolant ex= pansion tank, which lead to pressure loss, which caused it to overheat. Man= aged to shut down near the hanger and get a water hose on the rads, but I f= eel the engine got baked underneath the fiberglass cowl. *Future note, need= to come up with some flaps that open after shutdown or something, to let t= he heat escape out. Maybe even an electric fan that runs for 5 minutes afte= r shutdown* I know I blew some type of coolant gasket, but unsure if the irons are warp= ed. Going to take apart next weekend. Just wanted to run by my list of mods= , to see if I need to change anything or add/remove. 25hours, 99% ground testing The iron plates were lapped and renitraded=20 Rotor housings were new and welded in P-Ports RotaryAviation master kit (RA super seals) Oil ~125psi at full throttle 20w50 VR1 high zinc RX7 rear pressure regulator 2 washers under front pressure regulator weber jet kit thermal pellet Coolant 1.3bar cap ECU says ~27psi at full throttle, not sure I believe that yet. Lots of nois= e at full throttle on my pressure sensors (pic attached) 70/30 Zerex G-05 ?? I???ll order the Atkins oring kit, supposedly their brown inner water jacke= t seals can handle a bit higher temps. https://www.atkinsrotary.com/store/0= 4-11-Rx8-O-Ring-Kit-ARE317.html - Matt Boiteau-- Homepage:?? http://www.flyrotary.com/ Archive and UnSub:?? ??http://mail.lancaironline.net:81/lists/flyrotary/Lis= t.html ------=_Part_955982_1088926383.1567481991428 Content-Type: text/html; charset=UTF-8 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
You know that all side seals are a bit too long and n= eed to be fitted in every case. My jig is an old rotor with a corner cut of= f. A drill press with a small stone that is the size of the corner seal. Th= is produces the correct shape for the end of the seal. In olden times only = one end of the seal had the right shape. The other end was just square. And= all are too long.

Except when the bearing is pushed in incorrectly or m= isaligned and part of the damn tab has missed its slot.
There is not actual contact between the crank and any= bearing surface. The crank is smaller than the bearing ID by several thous= andths of an inch. The gap of course, is for oil. High oil pressure is used= to move overheated oil off of the bearing face more quickly, in racing and= other high RPM use. It has nothing to do with supporting the crank with hy= draulic pressure. You must count on the film strength of the oil for that. = That is why there is such a thing as racing oil. Synthetic oils and more so= in racing synthetics, absorb heat quickly, and give it up quickly and have= stupid high film strength. They are also stable at much higher temps than = conventional oils.

Bearings are soft. Cranks are hard. The further apart= in hardness the longer the bearing will last. Lead Indium, Aluminum, Antim= ony, Brass, Copper and Tin and many alloys of all are used in plain bearing= s. All have alarmingly low melting points. The highest oil temps are found = in the interface between crank and bearing material. So, the oil temp in th= e sump will not show you the temp in the interface. Fortunately the bearing= s have huge area for the loads involved. High oil temps cause lowered HP.&n= bsp; Starting at ambient and getting bad above 160. Coolant above 180 is th= e same deal. Half of the engine heat is in the= oil.
Duty cycle for a car is about 30%. For a race car its= about 90%. For an airplane it is closer to 100%.

You do not climb into your RX-7 and go across Texas a= t full throttle. (100% duty cycle). You do fly across Texas in your plane a= t full throttle (100%) duty cycle.

Lynn E. Hanover       

In a message dated 9/2/2019 5:50:45 PM Eastern Standard Time, flyrotary@lan= caironline.net writes:

Dave,

DO NOT take fine sand paper to = your new (or old )bearings!  The fine grit will embed itself in the me= tal and you will wear  out the eccentric shaft in a couple hundred hou= rs.   Scrape them, but no fine sand paper!

Bob Darryl

Sent from my = iPad

On Sep 2, 2019, at 10:43 AM, David Leonard wdleonard@gma= il.com <flyrotary@lancaironline.net> wrote:=

Hi Bobby, most definately I had made sure the rotors were clear, along= with most of the other tricks (eh, except hot coffee).  At this point= I am still 90% sure that the problem was low compression due to wear and t= ear.

Now that I have completed the re-build add tested and/or replaced ever= y other component of the eletrical and fuel systems I am still convinced th= at my problem is once again low compression (I cant get it to start at all = now).  My leading theory is that during the rebuild I took Lynn's advi= se a little too seriously and did not file down my side seals enough. = Perhaps if I can just get it started one time, those side seals will break= -in quickly and all will be good.  But, more than likely I will need t= o t the ecentriremove the engine from the plane again and take it apart jus= t so I can get a file on those side seals.  While there I will also ta= ke some fine sand paper to my new bearings so they are a little less tight.=

The act of writting that tale in electrons helped me to figure out my = ongoing woes, that are difficult to face because of the work involved in an= other re-build.

At this point it is an internal battle betweeen wanting my plane back = and not wanting to dive into another rebuild.  Its a lot like childbir= th. Over time the pain of the rebuild will be forgotten and the desire for = my plane will increase to the point where I am ready to endure the proess a= gain.

I really thank everyone for the comments and input.  It reassured= me that I was not missing something easy to fix that I had not thought of.=

David Leonard
Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
229 mph qualifying time at Reno 2011 (probably 300+ hp then)
1100+ hours over 14 years flying
6 rebuilds over the years, probably about to be 7.  (But this was= the first time I replaced the iron side housings)


On Mon, Sep 2, 2019, 6:5= 1 AM Bobby J. Hughes bhughes@qnsi.net <flyr= otary@lancaironline.net> wrote:
Dave,

Have you attempted a hot start with the fuel pumps off to clear the en= gine? Leaking injectors after shutdown?

Bobby

Sent from my iPad

On Aug 31, 2019, at 2:38 PM, Matt Boiteau = mattboiteau@gmail.com <flyrotary@lancaironline.net= > wrote:

I have a fuel tem= p sensor on my fuel return. Actually it's a GM flex sensor, that detects et= hanol % and gives temperature as a bonus. When I've shut down, I have seen = the fuel temps climb to 120F (and probably more). It takes about 10-20secon= ds to turn on the fuel pump, to see the temperatures start to drop back dow= n to 90F. 

Hard to start when the fuel temps that high on a hot= engine.

- Matt Boiteau

On 2019-08-31 11:18:54 AM, B= obby J. Hughes bhughes@qnsi.net <flyrotary@= lancaironline.net> wrote:


I agree with Finn. Alternator noise would be my first gues= s. You could try adding a filter and dedicated ground from alternator back = to FWF main ground point. Jumper cable for temporary ground wire. Hot fuel = should not be possible with return lines.

Bobby 

Sent from my iPad

On Aug 31, 2019, at 8:01 AM, Finn Lassen finn.lassen@verizon.net <flyrotary@lancaironline.= net> wrote:

Tried to r= eplace the alternator?

Really good ground battery to alternator?
=
Can you put an oscilloscope one the power to coils and supply line to t= he EC2?

(I'm thinking noise from alternator. Some bad connection som= ewhere when hot.)

You know, one way to troubleshoot intermittent ele= ctronic failures it to heat individual components up and/or cool down (a lo= t) until you find the intermittently bad component.

Finn

On 8= /31/2019 1:19 AM, David Leonard wdleonard@gmail.com wrote:
Interject when you figure out my underlying issue.?? Please!

It started about a year ago.?? I was putting a lot of hours on N4VY (T= urbo rotary RV-6) commuting for work.?? One day I flew to Ramona to meet up= with my formation flying buddies.?? After the brief we went to start our p= lanes but mine wouldn't start and I had to bow out of the flight.?? It woul= d crank and almost catch, but I wore out my battery trying.?? After recharg= ing for a couple hours it started up normally.?? I flew home and wrote it o= ff as some sort of start procedure SNAFU.?? I use Tracys EC2.

But that was the start of a long succession of difficult starts when p= re-warmed, starting fine when cold.?? Sometimes leaving me stranded at a ga= s stop until the engine cooled.?? While in a safe place I tested air starts= and there seemed to be no issue there just turning the fuel pumps back on = with the prop spinning.

Then it started doing something else strange.?? After starting it woul= d run really rough?? whenever the alternator output got above 55amps or so.= ?? By rough I mean sputtering and resisting advancing the throttle by saggi= ng and occasionally backfire.?? If I had been cranking for a long period it= could take a minute for the amps to drop and the engine to run normally.

I started by checking for loose wires and replacing the spark plugs. (= No improveement)

So then I replaced the battery, it still seemed strong but maybe the v= oltage was dropping with cranking or somethng.?? I got interested in Li Ion= batteries and splurged on the Big one.?? It increased my total enerrgy sto= rage, CCAs, and decreased weight by over 10#.?? Expensive but worth it cons= idering they are also supposed to last longer.

But it turns out the old battery was fine after.?? Not only did it not= solve the problem, but because the Li Ion battery can take a much faster c= harge, it would max out the alternator at least briefly on EVERY start, mak= ing the problem worse.

Next was fuel filter and spark plug wires, no improvement.

The condition continued to slowly worsen despite trying richer mixture= s of 2-stroke oil and or MMO.?? So I finally grounded it.

My thought at this point was that the compression had finally deggrade= d to the point where compression was not enough for combustion unless turni= ng really fast.?? Perhaps the extra drag from full output of the alternator= made the condition worse.?? And when it was hot the rotor housings expande= d just enough to really kill the compression.?? The side iron plates in tha= t engine had the better part of 1000 flight hours plus unknown time in an R= X7.?? Compression measured mid 20s on both rotors, for what thats worth.?? = Time for a rebuild.

I went all out.?? All new rotor and side housings, seals, springs, o-r= ings and the necessary aircraft mods to those parts.?? (fittings, etc..., E= GR passages pluged)?? I also replaced the LS1 coils and the coil harness.

And??? Nothing.?? Fuel flow and injector gross function verified.?? Al= l sparks verified during cranking with a timing light.?? Tried a different = CAS just for kicks.?? The engine is a little tight because it is new, compr= ession is not spectacular cause the seals have not set, perhaps the apex se= al little bits are still glued on..

Jump in here anytime.


You know? You are right, I just need to disconnect the alternator and = keep cranking until it finally catches and gets a little bit of a break-in.= ????

This talk has been really helpful for me.

Dave Leonard
(the forever optimist)
Also going to switch to full synthetic 2-stroke oil without MMO.?? The= new engine will never know how good it has it.??



On Thu, Aug 29, 2019, 10= :18 PM Matt Boiteau mattboiteau@gmail.com <flyrotary@lancaironline.net> wrote:

Well ran into a little bit of a snag on= my RX8 engine???.
While trying different things to cool down the oil, d= uring high-speed taxi tests I managed to blow out the temporary clear level= tube on my coolant expansion tank, which lead to pressure loss, which caus= ed it to overheat. Managed to shut down near the hanger and get a water hos= e on the rads, but I feel the engine got baked underneath the fiberglass co= wl. *Future note, need to come up with some flaps that open after shutdown = or something, to let the heat escape out. Maybe even an electric fan that r= uns for 5 minutes after shutdown*

I know I blew some type of coolant= gasket, but unsure if the irons are warped. Going to take apart next weeke= nd. Just wanted to run by my list of mods, to see if I need to change anyth= ing or add/remove.

25hours, 99% ground testing
The iron plates we= re lapped and renitraded
Rotor housings were new and welded in P-Ports<= br>RotaryAviation master kit (RA super seals)

Oil
~125psi = at full throttle
20w50 VR1 high zinc
RX7 rear pressure regulator
2= washers under front pressure regulator
weber jet kit
thermal pellet<= /p>


Coolant
1.3bar cap
ECU= says ~27psi at full throttle, not sure I believe that yet. Lots of noise a= t full throttle on my pressure sensors (pic attached)
70/30 Zerex G-05

??

I???ll order the Atkins oring kit, supp= osedly their brown inner water jacket seals can handle a bit higher temps. = https://www.atkinsrotary= .com/store/04-11-Rx8-O-Ring-Kit-ARE317.html


- Matt Boiteau
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Homepage:?? http://www.flyrotary.com/
Archive and UnS= ub:?? ??http://mail.lancaironline= .net:81/lists/flyrotary/List.html


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