From: "Todd Bartrim bartrim@gmail.com" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
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Date: Sun, 30 Sep 2018 00:55:57 -0700
Message-ID: <CALYfWBsYYX+T3FHbKe6sg80rcdRf-eQfW5VH=Xh4Unc=_=CP-Q@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: 2 pass or not 2 pass... oil cooler?
To: FlyRotary <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
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Hey Rotorheads;
   This summer I bought the Fluidyne DB30618 but it is only a single pass.
I recently inquired about them with Summit Racing and they say they will
provide a 2-pass as a custom order. The stock oil cooler is a 2-pass but
much more restrictive. The single pass added a longer hose with a 180 swept
fitting to make it work.
   I'm seeing higher temps than I'd like to despite my improved duct work.
Actually inlet duct was improved, but outlet duct is new as I didn't have
one before and I do wonder if the outlet duct is restrictive but I'm
limited with space and old nose gear mount being in the way (as much as I'd
like to remove the nose wheel mount it is integral to the engine mount, so
I'm stuck with it), so I wonder if it would be better to remove the exit
duct completely and just leave the oil cooler exit air un-ducted?
   But to the main question for tonight, I'm thinking about converting my
cooler to a 2-pass. I have been experiencing higher oil temps than expected
at around 110C and considering the OAT has dropped considerably, I would
like to reduce these somewhat. I suspect that the flow is not going through
the entire cooler evenly with a majority of flow channeling through only a
few of the tubes as it is not really any different than the temps it used
to see with the Mazda cooler. The larger size and more efficient design
should produce better cooling if oil was flowing evenly through all tubes
and spending a longer time in the cooler.
  So I'm thinking it should be simple enough to convert to a 2-pass cooler
which should ensure a better distribution of flow through all the tubes.
But is it really so simple?? See pic at
https://photos.app.goo.gl/TrU99jXjftz4X8h37
It would seem a simple matter to zip-cut a slot where the red line is,
slide in a baffle plate and weld it up, re-sealing the end tank, drill a
hole and weld in the new AN10 fitting and at the other end, zip off the old
AN12 fitting and weld it up. This would also simplify plumbing, as the oil
in line would be shorter and go straight in with no 180 bend.
   But the thing is I can only weld on 3 sides of the baffle plate that I
would install. I can ensure that it is tightly seated against the tube end
plate between the tube but it wouldn't be a sealed junction. Do it right
and an insignificant amount of oil may bypass there and not go through the
tubes. Do it wrong and it could be a significant amount with a drastic
reduction in cooling.
   Obviously I've already removed the cooler and brought it home with the
intent to do this mod, but now I'm second guessing myself. I've considered
that if Summit Racing is modifying these as a custom order then they likely
are doing just what I plan to do. Otherwise it would have to be done during
manufacture by Fluidyne.
   It seems simple, but I lost sleep last night considering all the various
issues. Still didn't do it today, so I figured I'd pose the question to the
group and go hunting with my kid tomorrow while I wait for the opinions to
arrive.

   On another topic, during a take-off roll the other day, the diaphragm in
my old stock wastegate actuator blew. I didn't catch it with the throttle
until I hit 16.5 psi of boost. No damage but I gotta say that's a fun way
to get off the ground in a hurry! I usually limit myself to 6 psi of boost
as that was the spring pressure. I do have an electronic controller
(TurboSmart) which allows me to have higher pressures above the spring
pressure, but that is intended for high altitude and mountain flying.
  I've ordered a new adjustable piston type of actuator that comes with a
selection of 6 springs. I intend to use the 3 psi spring as I usually use
the boost very conservatively and the TurboSmart controller can give me
more if I need it for short mountain strips.
Anyways, I look forward to your opinions on the oil cooler.

Todd Bartrim     .......  20.6 hours on new RV9 version 2.0.....  I had to
cash in beer cans for gas money....
C-FSTB
RV9 13Bturbo

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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div>Hey Rotorheads;</div><div>=C2=A0 =C2=
=A0This summer I bought the Fluidyne DB30618 but it is only a single pass. =
I recently inquired about them with Summit Racing and they say they will pr=
ovide a 2-pass as a custom order. The stock oil cooler is a 2-pass but much=
 more restrictive. The single pass added a longer hose with a 180 swept fit=
ting to make it work.</div><div>=C2=A0 =C2=A0I&#39;m seeing higher temps th=
an I&#39;d like to despite my improved duct work. Actually inlet duct was i=
mproved, but outlet duct is new as I didn&#39;t have one before and I do wo=
nder if the outlet duct is restrictive but I&#39;m limited with space and o=
ld nose gear mount being in the way (as much as I&#39;d like to remove the =
nose wheel mount it is integral to the engine mount, so I&#39;m stuck with =
it), so I wonder if it would be better to remove the exit duct completely a=
nd just leave the oil cooler exit air un-ducted?</div><div>=C2=A0 =C2=A0But=
 to the main question for tonight, I&#39;m thinking about converting my coo=
ler to a 2-pass. I have been experiencing higher oil temps than expected at=
 around 110C and considering the OAT has dropped considerably, I would like=
 to reduce these somewhat. I suspect that the flow is not going through the=
 entire cooler evenly with a majority of flow channeling through only a few=
 of the tubes as it is not really any different than the temps it used to s=
ee with the Mazda cooler. The larger size and more efficient design should =
produce better cooling if oil was flowing evenly through all tubes and spen=
ding a longer time in the cooler.</div><div>=C2=A0 So I&#39;m thinking it s=
hould be simple enough to convert to a 2-pass cooler which should ensure a =
better distribution of flow through all the tubes. But is it really so simp=
le?? See pic at</div><div><a href=3D"https://photos.app.goo.gl/TrU99jXjftz4=
X8h37">https://photos.app.goo.gl/TrU99jXjftz4X8h37</a><br></div><div>It wou=
ld seem a simple matter to zip-cut a slot where the red line is, slide in a=
 baffle plate and weld it up, re-sealing the end tank, drill a hole and wel=
d in the new AN10 fitting and at the other end, zip off the old AN12 fittin=
g and weld it up. This would also simplify plumbing, as the oil in line wou=
ld be shorter and go straight in with no 180 bend.</div><div>=C2=A0 =C2=A0B=
ut the thing is I can only weld on 3 sides of the baffle plate that I would=
 install. I can ensure that it is tightly seated against the tube end plate=
 between the tube but it wouldn&#39;t be a sealed junction. Do it right and=
 an insignificant amount of oil may bypass there and not go through the tub=
es. Do it wrong and it could be a significant amount with a drastic reducti=
on in cooling.</div><div>=C2=A0 =C2=A0Obviously I&#39;ve already removed th=
e cooler and brought it home with the intent to do this mod, but now I&#39;=
m second guessing myself. I&#39;ve considered that if Summit Racing is modi=
fying these as a custom order then they likely are doing just what I plan t=
o do. Otherwise it would have to be done during manufacture by Fluidyne.</d=
iv><div>=C2=A0 =C2=A0It seems simple, but I lost sleep last night consideri=
ng all the various issues. Still didn&#39;t do it today, so I figured I&#39=
;d pose the question to the group and go hunting with my kid tomorrow while=
 I wait for the opinions to arrive.</div><div><br></div><div>=C2=A0 =C2=A0O=
n another topic, during a take-off roll the other day, the diaphragm in my =
old stock wastegate actuator blew. I didn&#39;t catch it with the throttle =
until I hit 16.5 psi of boost. No damage but I gotta say that&#39;s a fun w=
ay to get off the ground in a hurry! I usually limit myself to 6 psi of boo=
st as that was the spring pressure. I do have an electronic controller (Tur=
boSmart) which allows me to have higher pressures above the spring pressure=
, but that is intended for high altitude and mountain flying.=C2=A0</div><d=
iv>=C2=A0 I&#39;ve ordered a new adjustable piston type of actuator that co=
mes with a selection of 6 springs. I intend to use the 3 psi spring as I us=
ually use the boost very conservatively and the TurboSmart controller can g=
ive me more if I need it for short mountain strips.</div><div>Anyways, I lo=
ok forward to your opinions on the oil cooler.</div><div><br></div><div><di=
v dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_signature"><div dir=3D"ltr">Todd Bartrim=C2=A0=
 =C2=A0 =C2=A0.......=C2=A0 20.6 hours on new RV9 version 2.0.....=C2=A0 I =
had to cash in beer cans for gas money....</div><div>C-FSTB</div><div>RV9 1=
3Bturbo</div></div></div></div></div>

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