Mailing List flyrotary@lancaironline.net Message #6383
From: sqpilot@earthlink <sqpilot@earthlink.net>
Sender: Marvin Kaye <marv@lancaironline.net>
Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: air pocket in cooling system
Date: Tue, 09 Mar 2004 21:47:22 -0500
To: <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Hi, Rusty...here is a picture of my water pump housing with the temp sensor
as well as a -6AN fitting I drilled and tapped into the housing.  The red
line indicates where the water/coolant level was when I removed the
thermostat.  The water was maybe 1/16" below the lip of the thermostat, and
followed that red line. The picture is deceiving, does not look level
because of the angle I took the picture at, but that red line is
representative of where the water level sat when I removed the thermostat. I
could actually see the sensor on the inside of the water pump casting, and
it was not submerged or covered by water.  Hope this helps and/or makes
sense.  Thanks again.  Paul Conner

----- Original Message -----
From: "Russell Duffy" <13brv3@bellsouth.net>
To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 09, 2004 9:09 AM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: air pocket in cooling system


Hi Paul,

Can you post another pic of this thermostat housing area, with the temp
sensor visible?  Are you saying the stock temp sensor is above the
thermostat?  The water pump housings that I have, locate the temp sensor
below the thermostat, which would be immersed in coolant if the level is
up
to the bottom of the thermostat as you described.  Is there any chance
this
higher fitting you describe was originally a level sensor?

As for air pockets, my rev-1 system had a pretty big loop of AN-16 hose
out
of the top of the thermostat housing, that went all the way down to the
radiator below the engine.  That loop stayed full of air all the time.   I
figured that there wasn't enough flow to force the air pocket down the
long
slope and into the radiator.  It seems the hose was large enough to allow
the water to flow along the bottom of the hose, and leave the air in the
top.  It didn't hurt anything, but it always bugged me.

In rev-2, I did away with the air separator tank, and have only an
overflow
bottle.  The rad cap is mounted on the thermostat housing (no room for a
thermostat though), so I can actually fill the engine without taking hoses
off (another improvement from rev-1).  I have the option of adding an
aluminum, pressurized expansion tank in place of the plastic overflow tank
if it proves necessary, but for now, I decided that simple is good.

Cheers,
Rusty (running again by the end of this week...really...don't laugh, it
could happen)


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