From: <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
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Full-name: Lehanover
Message-ID: <3b70f9.52596139.4450fbaf@aol.com>
Date: Tue, 26 Apr 2016 13:13:20 -0400
Subject: Torque up the stack in two days.
To: flyrotary@lancaironline.net
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Years ago I discovered that no matter how meticulous I was about following  
the torque sequence on the case bolts, the next day several would have 
slipped  below the spec and need to be redone. How could this be?
 
Also on stripping down dozens of gift engines, some case bolts would be  
finger tight and some would be missing heads. Did the factory not do this  
correctly in the beginning? 
 
The early case bolts were necked down between the head and the threads. So  
as to stretch a bit more I suppose. All later bolts are a constant diameter 
head  to threads. Super high stress bolts like rod bolts in racing engines 
do not have  a torque spec. They have a stretch spec. Dimples in the bolt 
head and threaded  end are used to set up a special jig to hold a dial 
indicator in place while the  bolt is torqued. You use a breaker bar not a torque 
wrench. You keep pulling  until the indicator says the bolt has stretched 
.007" for example. And that  would be for a fairly short bolt. What hope is 
there of getting a completely  constant torque on all of the case bolts? 
Remember this is for clean dry threads  on a real long bolt. The answer is zero. 
 
So, I chase the threads in the end iron with a new tap. I wire brush the  
bolt threads even on new bolts. I apply Nickel anti seize compound on the  
threads and under the bolt heads. I torque the case up in 10 steps. 
Then let it sit overnight. Then in sequence, loosen each bolt all the way  
to get more anti seize under the threads and head and re-torque every bolt 
in  order. You can put paint dots on the right side of each bolt heads today. 
After  the next days re-torque, look where those dots are. 
 
Since I am torqueing above the spec of clean and dry, I just pull down to  
the minimum spec number. Have a few extra bolts standing by as you may loose 
a  few doing this. Note that Racing Beat goes way high on turbo case bolts 
torque.  Download their catalog or find the printed version and buy it. Much 
data in  there.
 
Do not forget a bit of rubber hose in the center of the bolt, or a spiral  
of silicone to stop the bolt from singing and popping off the head. Used to 
be  so common that a shield of metal covered the bolt heads to keep them out 
of the  flywheel.
 
Loosing the coolant and exhaust gasses in the coolant on a well performing  
engine, would agree with a cracked iron would it not?
 
Lynn E. Hanover  
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<DIV>Years ago I discovered that no matter how meticulous I was about foll=
owing=20
the torque sequence on the case bolts, the next day several would have sli=
pped=20
below the spec and need to be redone. How could this be?</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Also on stripping down dozens of gift engines, some case bolts would=
 be=20
finger tight and some would be missing heads. Did the factory not do this=
=20
correctly in the beginning? </DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>The early case bolts were necked down between the head and the thread=
s. So=20
as to stretch a bit more I suppose. All later bolts are a constant diamete=
r head=20
to threads. Super high stress bolts like rod bolts in racing engines do no=
t have=20
a torque spec. They have a stretch spec. Dimples in the bolt head and thre=
aded=20
end are used to set up a special jig to hold a dial indicator in place whi=
le the=20
bolt is torqued. You use a breaker bar not a torque wrench. You keep pulli=
ng=20
until the indicator says the bolt has stretched .007" for example. And tha=
t=20
would be for a fairly short bolt. What hope is there of getting a complete=
ly=20
constant torque on all of the case bolts? Remember this is for clean dry=
 threads=20
on a real long bolt. The answer is zero.&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>So, I chase the threads in the end iron with a new tap. I wire brush=
 the=20
bolt threads even on new bolts. I apply Nickel anti seize compound on the=
=20
threads and under the bolt heads.&nbsp;I torque the case up in 10 steps.=
 </DIV>
<DIV>Then let it sit overnight. Then in sequence, loosen each bolt all the=
 way=20
to get more anti seize under the threads and head and re-torque every bolt=
 in=20
order. You can put paint dots on the right side of each bolt heads today.=
 After=20
the next days re-torque, look where those dots are. </DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Since I am torqueing above the spec of clean and dry, I just pull dow=
n to=20
the minimum spec number. Have a few extra bolts standing by as you may loo=
se a=20
few doing this. Note that Racing Beat goes way high on turbo case bolts to=
rque.=20
Download their catalog or find the printed version and buy it. Much&nbsp;d=
ata in=20
there.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Do not forget a bit of rubber hose in the center of the bolt, or a sp=
iral=20
of silicone to stop the bolt from singing and popping off the head. Used=
 to be=20
so common that a shield of metal covered the bolt heads to keep them out=
 of the=20
flywheel.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Loosing the coolant and exhaust gasses in the coolant on a well perfo=
rming=20
engine,&nbsp;would agree with a cracked iron&nbsp;would it not?</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Lynn E. Hanover&nbsp;&nbsp;</DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>
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