From: <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
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Full-name: Lehanover
Message-ID: <259406.7486576b.444d6deb@aol.com>
Date: Sat, 23 Apr 2016 20:31:40 -0400
Subject: Coolant loss
To: flyrotary@lancaironline.net
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So, an advanced builder.....Normally aspirated rotaries play nice.  They 
produce enough power for most applications. They are tolerant of abuse at  the 
hands of the "Unwashed". They run on when massively
overheated, when ignitions are far over advanced, in the presence of  
"Marvel Mystery Oil" and similar home brew concoctions. For an amazing distance  
with no oil pressure at all, and so-on. 
 
Turbo charged and supercharged rotaries do not play nice. They require  
special care to avoid a long list of seemingly innocuous data points. Because:  
Where the rotary's huge expanse of cold combustion chamber and sluggish 
burn  rate favors low octane fast flame front fuel, this is not enough help for 
the  pressurized induction system. Where effective compression ratio may be 
doubled.  (Twice the fuel and air in the same space) So, ignition advance 
may start off  with very low numbers and retreat rather than advance as RPM 
(And boost  pressure) goes up. Because the fuel droplets are now closer 
together and burn  more quickly than in the unboosted version. The heat load on 
the cooling system  goes way up as well. Burn twice the fuel,
remove twice the waste heat. Remember the engine is only 28% effective so  
about 70% of the fuel is just a roaring fire under the hood that must be 
piped  overboard as waste heat. 
 
While it is difficult to detonate an NA rotary, (although my driver figured 
 out a way) it is not at all difficult to detonate a turbo rotary. 
Detonation is  charge temperature dependant. See "Why intercoolers". 
 
Detonation is an ignition event starting AFTER the planned ignition  event 
at the plug away from the plug area (usually) . So the fuel mixture was  too 
lean (we fuel cool at high power settings)  Coolant temps got too high. 
Boost got too high. Carbon deposits on the rotor, octane rating too low,  
and so-on. Anything that adds to charge temperature.
 
Anything that starts an ignition event BEFORE the planned ignition  event 
has started PRE ignition. This problem is also very harmful as it raises  
engine temps and leads quickly to Detonation. You can have one or the  other or 
both at once. (Very bad). Pre ignition is not charge temperature  dependant 
but as you can imagine that could add to the problem. Faulty ignition  
system. Cross talk in primary wires. Induced voltage in secondary wires. Plug  
heat range too high. Plug tip shape wrong. Injector skipping or plugged. 
Carbon  buildup on the rotor. 
 
Look for cracks around the plug holes in the rotor housings. Look for  
rounded electrodes on the plugs. 
Look for the mating surfaces of the rotor housings to be blackened from  
scrubbing on the irons around the plugs. Very high output rotaries use the  
dowels in every bolt position to prevent the (rubber like) rotor housings from 
 changing shape with each power stroke. Measure the width of each rotor 
housing  between the plug holes to see if the housing has shrunk in that area 
(Been over  heated) 
 
Use NGK R-6725-115 plugs.This is a retracted gap fine wire electrode. The  
115 is actually the heat range (11.5). I gap mine at .010" (ten 
thousandths).  And use an MSD 6AL CD ignition box on leading and trailing. Both leading 
and  trailing fire together (Less complexity)  at between 24 to 27 degrees 
of  advance. However we are doing all of our work above 7,800 RPM. So, less 
advance  is needed for 6,000 RPM normally aspirated and nearly none for 
turbocharged at  6,000 RPM.,   Take a deep breath. Those plugs are about $27.00  
each.
 
I think a change has occurred in your program that is just not obvious.  
Perhaps a bit of pump impeller is eroded away. A bit of coolant hose is 
sagging  or crimping in exactly the wrong place. The timing marks were off a bit 
all this  time and advance was a bit more than was thought. Use the starter 
ring gear  teeth for timing marks. Much bigger circle. Easy to see. It sounds 
like  overheating, maybe in just one location rather than a catastrophic 
failure that  would leave clues behind.  Copying mapping from a street racer 
can be  misleading because he is using his engine for a few seconds at a 
time. Our duty  cycle is close to 100% Stand on it and steer for hours. So a 
piece of ducting  changing shape can do this. A dirty cooler. A trim change. 
Map richer for wide  open throttle. Cool with fuel. (Lower charge 
temperature). WWII planes had water  and alcohol injection at full throttle, to lower 
charge temperature and raise  octane rating.  You will find it. Fear not.
 
Lynn E. Hanover 

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<DIV>&nbsp;=20
<DIV>So, an advanced builder.....Normally aspirated rotaries&nbsp;play nic=
e.=20
They produce enough power for most applications. They are tolerant of abus=
e at=20
the hands of the "Unwashed". They run on when massively</DIV>
<DIV>overheated, when ignitions are far over advanced, in the presence of=
=20
"Marvel Mystery Oil" and similar home brew concoctions. For an amazing dis=
tance=20
with no oil pressure at all, and so-on. </DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Turbo charged and supercharged rotaries&nbsp;do not play nice. They=
 require=20
special care to avoid a long list of seemingly innocuous data points. Beca=
use:=20
Where the rotary's huge expanse of cold combustion chamber and sluggish bu=
rn=20
rate favors low octane fast flame front fuel, this is not enough help for=
 the=20
pressurized induction system. Where effective compression ratio may be dou=
bled.=20
(Twice the fuel and air in the same space) So, ignition advance may start=
 off=20
with very low numbers and retreat rather than advance as RPM (And boost=20
pressure) goes up. Because the fuel droplets are now closer together and=
 burn=20
more quickly than in the unboosted version. The heat load on the cooling=
 system=20
goes way up as well. Burn twice the fuel,</DIV>
<DIV>remove twice the waste heat. Remember the engine is only 28% effectiv=
e so=20
about 70% of the fuel is just a roaring fire under the hood that must be=
 piped=20
overboard as waste heat. </DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>While it is difficult to detonate an NA rotary, (although my driver=
 figured=20
out a way) it is not at all difficult to detonate a turbo rotary. Detonati=
on is=20
charge temperature dependant. See "Why intercoolers". </DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Detonation is&nbsp;an ignition event starting AFTER the planned ignit=
ion=20
event at the plug away from the plug area (usually) . So the fuel mixture=
 was=20
too lean (we fuel cool at high power settings) &nbsp;Coolant temps got too=
 high.=20
</DIV>
<DIV>Boost got too high. Carbon deposits on the rotor, octane rating too=
 low,=20
and so-on. Anything that adds to charge temperature.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Anything that starts an ignition event&nbsp;BEFORE the planned igniti=
on=20
event has started PRE ignition. This problem is also very harmful as it ra=
ises=20
engine temps&nbsp;and leads quickly to Detonation. You can&nbsp;have one=
 or the=20
other or both at once. (Very bad). Pre ignition is not charge temperature=
=20
dependant but as you can imagine that could add to the problem. Faulty ign=
ition=20
system. Cross talk in primary wires. Induced voltage in secondary wires.=
 Plug=20
heat range too high. Plug tip shape wrong. Injector skipping or plugged.=
 Carbon=20
buildup on the rotor. </DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Look for cracks around the plug holes in the rotor housings. Look for=
=20
rounded electrodes on the plugs. </DIV>
<DIV>Look for the mating surfaces of the rotor housings to be blackened fr=
om=20
scrubbing on the irons around the plugs. Very high output rotaries use the=
=20
dowels in every bolt position to prevent the (rubber like) rotor housings=
 from=20
changing shape with each power stroke. Measure the width of each rotor hou=
sing=20
between the plug holes to see if the housing has shrunk in that area (Been=
 over=20
heated)&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Use NGK R-6725-115 plugs.This is a retracted gap fine wire electrode.=
 The=20
115 is actually the heat range (11.5). I gap mine at .010" (ten thousandth=
s).=20
And use an MSD 6AL CD ignition box on leading and trailing. Both leading=
 and=20
trailing fire together (Less complexity)&nbsp; at between 24 to 27 degrees=
 of=20
advance. However we are doing all of our work above 7,800 RPM. So, less ad=
vance=20
is needed for 6,000 RPM normally aspirated and nearly none for turbocharge=
d at=20
6,000 RPM.,&nbsp; &nbsp;Take a deep breath. Those plugs are about $27.00=
=20
each.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>I think a change has occurred in your program that is just not obviou=
s.=20
Perhaps a bit of pump impeller is eroded away. A bit of coolant hose is sa=
gging=20
or crimping in exactly the wrong place. The timing marks were off a bit al=
l this=20
time and advance was a bit more than was thought. Use the starter ring gea=
r=20
teeth for timing marks. Much bigger circle. Easy to see. It sounds like=20
overheating, maybe in just one location rather than a catastrophic failure=
 that=20
would leave clues behind. &nbsp;Copying mapping from a street racer can be=
=20
misleading because he is using his engine for a few seconds at a time. Our=
 duty=20
cycle is close to 100% Stand on it and steer for hours. So a piece of duct=
ing=20
changing shape can do this. A dirty cooler. A trim change. Map richer for=
 wide=20
open throttle. Cool with fuel. (Lower charge temperature). WWII planes had=
 water=20
and alcohol injection at full throttle, to lower charge temperature and ra=
ise=20
octane rating.&nbsp;&nbsp;You will find it. Fear not.</DIV>
<DIV>&nbsp;</DIV>
<DIV>Lynn E. Hanover&nbsp;</DIV></DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>
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