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To continue to beat up on this "air vent line from top of engine" - its been
made clear that the line should not be large. I'd treat it like I would a
"direct oil pressure gage": If the oil line to gage breaks, you don't want
to dump all your engine oil out a big broken line, so folks use very small
lines and even put in restrictors.
Well, in this air/steam vent line, the issue is not breaking and dumping -
rather, it is "bypassing the radiator". So, to minimize coolant that
doesn't get cooled, then either use the smallest possible line, or, as in
the oil pressure tubing, put in a restrictor. Air doesn't need much of a
hole to flow up to your vent tank.
For my education, Kelly, how big is a -3 hose? 3/16 ID?
David
----- Original Message ----- From: <keltro@att.net>
To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Tuesday, March 02, 2004 12:14 PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: overflow connections
> The input I got about the expansion tank was to plumb the lower
connection
> down to the radiator and the upper connection to the top of the block.
> That's what I did, and apart from the problems I had with the
thermostat, it
> seems to work fine. I have a 23 lb cap on the expansion tank and a small
> overflow bottle.
>
> Regards,
> john
>
Paul and John,
Let me expand on this subject. The input I have said to plumb the
bottom
fitting of the expansion tank to input (suction side) of the water
pump/radiator
to keep system pressure seen by the pressure cap to a minimum. The upper
expansion
tank fitting should be small (-3 an hose or not over 3/16" I.D.) and
connected
as John said to the top of the engine block. Its function is to bleed any
trapped
air in the system to the tank. IMHO
Kelly Troyer
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