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If the tank is smooth on the inside. You could hand
ream the hole out to big enough for a bulkhead fitting. The long run of the
fitting would go into the tank. Make up a thick aluminum disc, big enough to
cover the crack. Use fuel tank sealer in the hole and under the washer. Tighten
the jamb huts with sealant under each.
You could have the same washer under the bottom side
as well.
Now the crack is covered top and bottom with sealant
and washers. Trim off any excess fitting and radius inlet to improve flow. The
fitting can now be pointed in any direction. I can make a drawing if you
need one.
Lynn E. Hanover
In a message dated 8/15/2013 10:30:37 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
echristley@att.net writes:
The
Delta has one ~50gal tank that sits behind the back seat. Not
wishing to fight the compatibility issues between epoxies and whatever
the government may mandate be put into our fuel supply next year, I went
with an welded up aluminum tank which I epoxied into the
turtleback.
For fittings, I welded in two NPT adapter bungs to the
bottom of the
tank. One for fuel supply, and one for
return. I had a small, seeping
leak at the supply fitting. I
needed to turn the NPT-to-AN6 90 degree
adapter one more turn to make it
seal. I got it most of the way around
before I heard a sharp
ping. The bung that I welded in is now split.
And that split
is guaranteed to expand with vibration.
The only solution I can think
if is to cut a round hole to remove the
bung, and then construct two
plates (one for the inside of the tank and
one for the outside), with a
hole in the center for the 90 degree
adapter. The problem is, the
tank can now be viewed as a bomb. How can
I cut a hole in the bottom
of the tank, which will require that I work
in an enclose space, without
the possibility of a spark making short
work of
everything?
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