X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from imr-da01.mx.aol.com ([205.188.105.143] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.4.4) with ESMTP id 5432600 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Wed, 07 Mar 2012 16:06:55 -0500 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=205.188.105.143; envelope-from=Lehanover@aol.com Received: from mtaomg-ma02.r1000.mx.aol.com (mtaomg-ma02.r1000.mx.aol.com [172.29.41.9]) by imr-da01.mx.aol.com (8.14.1/8.14.1) with ESMTP id q27L6CPA027985 for ; Wed, 7 Mar 2012 16:06:13 -0500 Received: from core-moc001a.r1000.mail.aol.com (core-moc001.r1000.mail.aol.com [172.29.195.1]) by mtaomg-ma02.r1000.mx.aol.com (OMAG/Core Interface) with ESMTP id 8F7A3E000089 for ; Wed, 7 Mar 2012 16:06:13 -0500 (EST) From: Lehanover@aol.com Message-ID: <28ed.a470d61.3c8927c4@aol.com> Date: Wed, 7 Mar 2012 16:06:12 -0500 (EST) Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Ground Cooling To: flyrotary@lancaironline.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_28ed.a470d61.3c8927c4_boundary" X-Mailer: AOL 9.6 sub 5004 X-Originating-IP: [97.96.76.144] x-aol-global-disposition: G DKIM-Signature: v=1; a=rsa-sha256; c=relaxed/relaxed; d=mx.aol.com; s=20110426; t=1331154373; bh=8KYffAoe3gPn0WrsRJ3NacNtxn46lS0vHQK8h/rsIqQ=; h=From:To:Subject:Message-ID:Date:MIME-Version:Content-Type; b=hO4/4CQaXv1IQzbyEPTUBitcZ0KencxEgmRwi21Lmb68oqCKzTaiGMVxVAqqNUkaf 3t9BkhcF49Tp6oqNZ+u+t7kuVaez6iISklCbsjV6wAPTHf202aKIBw3XBcwjcLnWNT S/J/AP8m2Pos6ST0/RtsRvJeTdrlmcvc8VLC3hxY= X-AOL-SCOLL-SCORE: 0:2:510442560:93952408 X-AOL-SCOLL-URL_COUNT: 0 x-aol-sid: 3039ac1d29094f57cdc56d29 --part1_28ed.a470d61.3c8927c4_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Language: en It does not sound to me as though there is a cooling problem. The engine at= =20 any specific power setting will produce a specific BTU load for the=20 cooling system. The radiator is a bit small for slow speed (or no speed)= =20 operation, in my opinion. But at over 100 MPH it could be just fine.=20 =20 We would heat soak the racer by running it up to temp then placing a =20 furnace blower in front of the radiator at the track or a garden hose in th= e =20 shop. This so the driver could go to 9,600 right out of the box with no fea= r=20 of any malfunctions. Heat soaked is everything at 200 degrees. No more. While racing I expect to see 160 to 180 degrees on the water and = =20 160 on the oil. The engine seems to search out 180 degrees and sit right=20 there. If the oil temps run away the driver short shifts by 200 revs in a = few=20 places and the temps come down.=20 =20 The oil temp responds quickly to power changes. The water is slow to react = =20 to power changes.=20 =20 Years ago I was helping 2 time national champion in formula continental=20 Tom Pomeroy with his formula V (as in 1200CC VW power) He could not keep t= he=20 temps down. We rigged up a plate to fit over the window hole of his Karmen= =20 Gia passenger side to road test air scoop designs. We ended up with one =20 that had a spring loaded door in the rear as at speed it was too effective = even=20 with the smallest possible intake hole.=20 =20 The point is that uncowled and at low or no speed, almost nothing is =20 learned about the cooling system. Or ducting. =20 I suspect you are closer than you think to at least high speed taxi =20 testing.=20 My radiator is 19"X31"X3" and I have never thought of it as being too big. No more operation above 200 degrees on the water or oil please. =20 Lynn E. Hanover =20 =20 =20 In a message dated 3/7/2012 12:05:34 P.M. Eastern Standard Time, =20 cbarber@texasattorney.net writes: =20 Actually, I have done very little with the cowl on. The feed to the =20 radiator is from the top mounted NACA's per plans (Velocity SE). I know PL= hates=20 NACA and I have options if these do not prove adequate, but it seems the= =20 most elegant solution as of now. But, at this point, the ducting would=20 seeminlgy have little to do with cooling. I have not air other than the f= ans=20 when on the ramp.=20 The radiator is mounted perpendicular directly in front of the engine very = =20 much like in the car and the NACA feed directly to the radiator. The=20 radiator is the back wall of the air chamber, air hitting it first at a 90= =20 degree angle and the oil cooler is the bottom/floor or the air chamber (wi= th=20 ducting feeding from the NACA to the bottom mounted oil cooler) with the = =20 sides being sealed by fiberglass walls. Ram air could be fed through the = side=20 walls via the armpit scoops I have for intake air and ancillary cooling of= =20 components. The fans are on the top of the radiator cuz that is where=20 they would fit. There are also three four inch fans on the factory oil coo= ler.=20 The top of the radiator is cool to the touch right were the fans are =20 drawing air through. It is warm when first shut down, but cools in a minu= te or=20 so with the fans on. The rest of the system is warm/hot as one would=20 expect.=20 So, your coolant max is 210 but during climb out it raises 25-30 to 235 = =20 or so degrees for a few minutes or does it hit 210 or so during climb out= =20 and drops to 180-185 in cruse?=20 Thanks guys, this is the kind of stuff I was looking for. Keep it coming= =20 please=20 Chris=20 =20 ____________________________________ =20 From: Rotary motors in aircraft [flyrotary@lancaironline.net] on behalf of= =20 Bobby J. Hughes [bhughes@qnsi.net] Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2012 10:24 AM To: Rotary motors in aircraft Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Ground Cooling =20 Chris,=20 How much better is your ground cooling with your top cowl removed? =20 I have two fans pulling air through the heat exchanger and the radiator = =20 area where the fans are is cool to the touch with the fans on right after =20 shutdown.=20 Are you sure the coolant is actually flowing through the radiator core and= =20 not taking a shortcut? It takes several minutes for my radiator to cool=20 down enough to touch after shutdown. I would remove the thermostat and pl= ug =20 the hole between the inlet and outlet. Drill a small bleed in the plug to = =20 allow trapped air to pass. I think I used a #30 drill. For my renesis I was= =20 able to tap the thermostat hole and install a standard size threaded plug. = =20 Don=E2=80=99t remember the details but I measured the opening and selected = a tap=20 and plug that would best work with the existing hole size. Could have been= a=20 =C2=BD NPT. =20 I also added a Schrader valve at the highest point of the pump outlet on= =20 the engine. When all the trapped air is removed my radiator outlet warms u= p =20 confirming coolant flow. It usually takes two or three short runs to bleed= =20 all the air and top off the coolant. I also monitor all heat exchanger=20 inlet and outlet temps with CHT wires clamped where needed. This is not o= nly =20 helpful in flight but also when changing coolant. I can easily tell from=20 the cockpit if coolant is flowing through the heat exchanger or I need to= =20 shut down and purge more air. =20 I always anticipate a 25-30F coolant rise for takeoff and climb. My max=20 coolant temp is set at 210F but I rarely see over200F.=20 Bobby =20 =20 =20 From: Rotary motors in aircraft _[mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net]_=20 (mailto:[mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net]) On Behalf Of Chris Barber Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2012 7:35 AM To: Rotary motors in aircraft Subject: [FlyRotary] Ground Cooling =20 I am cross-posting this from Paul's site. I should have posted here =20 first. I think I was just reading that list when I wrote it.=20 The initial response I do not think really addressed the issue asked about= =20 but Lee Hanover did post some info that I followed through with last=20 night. Not sure of any measurable difference yet, but at least it provide= s=20 something proactive. I know some of us monitor both list so sorry for the = =20 redundancy.=20 As I state in the post, I do not know how much ducting effects a pusher=20 when stationary. My buddy with a soob on his RV-7 gets quite a bit of =20 cooling from the prop.....being up front. =20 Since, as was just mentioned, the list has been quit enough to have us=20 question if it were still up, perhaps this will jump start us a bit.....= =20 Chris=20 Paul, What kind of temps should we be seeing on the ground? On Page 19 of your book (I was one of your first purchasers) it mentions even the P5 1had trouble on taxi and climb out. No comparison between mine and a P-51, but similar concern. I am currently re-reading it again to gather potential new insight. Funny, I understand much more of it now than when I got it :-). Yes, I understand that it is in flight that is our main concern, but it I heat up too much do to a long taxi or long hold or while doing run ups, it may prevent my flying for a while...especially if I trash an engine. I have this horrible image of me in the pattern with steam trailing behind my plane...yes, better than smoke, but still not good. I am currently doing my (hopefully final) high rpm engine runs before attempting first flight. I have scheduled transitional training with Velocity, Inc in Florida for early April. While I seem to maintain reasonable temps while at idle, even higher idle of around 2000 rpm, even though I seem to run hotter than I use to (may be the addition of the turbo since nothing else major was changed), when I run up the engine WITHOUT any air from the prop in my pusher aircraft, my temps soar very quickly, perhaps a minute or so before I idle back to bring temps down. From the 185/190 to past 220, sometimes a little more for a couple of seconds when I throttle back. I hate going this hot and have only done so to test full power twice, but do now wish to trash another set of seals or worse. I spoke with another pusher 13b pusher jockeythat says he has the same until he gets moving. I have not had any boil over though...yet...? I don't know if this is a bigger problem in pushers since it does not have the big fan up front pushing air into the system or not. I know a lot changes when you go faster and that is where I am thinking some of the ducting "magic" comes more into play, but since I am currently limited to a run up area, after a few minute taxi at a controlled airport in Houston, I am very stationary and yesterday it was "only" 80 degrees out and I had to sit and cool down before I ventured to taxi back to the hangar. My 13b, with water channel mods, street ported by Mazdatrix, a turbo with low boost for testing (3 lbs) as much for muffler use as any (yes, it made a heck of a difference). My prop is an in-flight adjustable 68 inch three blade, with 45 degree full fine IVO. The coolant heat exchanger is between the size of John Slade and Dave Leonard sat 22 x 19 x 3 =3D 1254 or a frontal area of 418. I have two fans pulling air through the heat exchanger and the radiator area where the fans are is cool to the touch with the fans on right after shutdown. I am running up to about 6200 rpm static with about 32 inch manifold pressure. I am using Royal Purple synthetic oil. 50% water to 50% coolant with some Water Wetter added. I have a coolant line from the port on the top of the engine to a pressure tank, then to the recovery tank as illustrated on page 39 to help relieve trapped air. Is there a conventional wisdom other than this to "burp" the air out of the system. I have actully lifted the nose to try to shake air pockets out. Again, I am curious as to your and others experiences on the ground and taxi as this is before most of the ducting, diffusing and wedging comes into play. As always, your/y'all's input is appreciated. Thanks (in advance) Chris Houston Send me some pictures of what your rad ducting looks like. I think you are more likely to have problems on climb out. Pick a cool day to do testing and climb out at the highest speed that is safe. Keep the climb angle shallow until you see how well it works. What are the rad core dimensions? Bulents installation worked pretty good but he did away with the early turbo. Air outlets are important as well. The prop will suck air flowing over the outlets. Air is somewhat like molasses in that it tends to stick to everything including itself. His wedge diffuser could have been a bit better. 10 quarts in the oil pan is good as it takes longer to heat up 10 quarts rather than only five. My O-470 230 HP engine has 12. Paul Lamar Do you have the Mazda thermostat installed? If not, have you plugged the bypass hole to prevent circulation through it? The engine will overheat if this is left out. Dale Davies Try cutting that antifreeze back to 10% just to help with the boiling=20 point. Try a Stant 22 pound lever cap. Dump the coolant and save it. Refill with just distilled water and Water Wetter or a teaspoon full of Dawn dishwashing detergent. Run the system to temp a few times including= =20 some revs to clean things out. Then Dump that mixture and refill with 10% coolant and= =20 distilled water and Water Wetter. The 50/50 idea is for winter time and selling lots of Prestone. The best coolant is distilled water. Lynn E. Hanover My radiator is 22 x 19 x 3 =3D 1254. Yes. I need to fly to verifying=20 ducting. However, I am currently focusing on ground temps for start up, getting to the=20 active and run ups. Not sure how ducting does much at this stage with the fan in the back= . Yes. I am running a thermostat. Honestly, I am uncertain on which passage= =20 to seal off in order to remove the thermostat. I would hate to choose wrong. Directions/illustrations here would be appreciated. I must conceded,=20 pulling the water pump housing is not an appealing thought right now regardless of how= =20 good I have now gotten at such things on the rotary. I think I may drain the coolant tonight. I will go the distilled with some= =20 warer wetter i think Unless the earth tilts its axis, Houston is not in direct= =20 peril from cold. Chris Houston --part1_28ed.a470d61.3c8927c4_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="UTF-8" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Language: en
It does not sound to me as though there is a cooling problem. The engi= ne at=20 any specific power setting will produce a specific BTU load for the cooling= =20 system. The radiator is a bit small for slow speed (or no speed) operation,= in=20 my opinion. But at over 100 MPH it could be just fine.
 
 We would heat soak the racer by running it up to temp then placi= ng a=20 furnace blower in front of the radiator at the track or a garden hose in th= e=20 shop. This so the driver could go to 9,600 right out of the box with no fea= r of=20 any malfunctions. Heat soaked is everything at 200 degrees.
No more. While racing I expect to see 160 to 180 degrees on the water = and=20 160 on the oil. The engine seems to search out 180 degrees and sit right th= ere.=20 If the oil temps run away the driver short shifts by 200 revs in a few plac= es=20 and the temps come down.
 
The oil temp responds quickly to power changes. The water is slow to r= eact=20 to power changes.
 
Years ago I was helping 2 time national champion in formula=20 continental Tom Pomeroy with his formula V (as in 1200CC VW power) He = could=20 not keep the temps down. We rigged up a plate to fit over the window hole o= f his=20 Karmen Gia passenger side to road test air scoop designs. We ended up with = one=20 that had a spring loaded door in the rear as at speed it was too effective = even=20 with the smallest possible intake hole. 
 
The point is that uncowled and at low or no speed, almost nothing is= =20 learned about the cooling system. Or ducting.
 
I suspect you are closer than you think to at least high speed taxi=20 testing.
My radiator is 19"X31"X3" and I have never thought of it as being too= =20 big.
No more operation above 200 degrees on the water or oil please.
 
Lynn E. Hanover  
 
In a message dated 3/7/2012 12:05:34 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,=20 cbarber@texasattorney.net writes:
=

Actually, I have done very little with the cowl on.  The feed to = the=20 radiator is from the top mounted NACA's per plans (Vel= ocity=20 SE). I know PL hates NACA and I have options if= =20 these do not prove adequate, but it seems the most elegant solution = as of=20 now.  But, at this point, the ducting would seeminlgy=20 have little to do with cooling.  I have not air other than the fans = when=20 on the ramp.

 

The radiator is mounted perpendicular directly in front of the engine = very=20 much like in the car and the NACA feed directly to the= =20 radiator.  The radiator is the back wall of the air chamber, air hit= ting=20 it first at a 90 degree angle and the oil cooler is the bottom/floor= or=20 the air chamber (with ducting feeding from=20 the NACA to the bottom mounted oil cooler) with t= he=20 sides being sealed by fiberglass walls.  Ram air could be fed throug= h the=20 side walls via the armpit scoops I have for intake air and ancillary cool= ing=20 of components.  The fans are on the top of the=20 radiator cuz that is where they would fit. There are a= lso=20 three four inch fans on the factory oil cooler.

 

The top of the radiator is cool to the touch right were the fans are= =20 drawing air through.  It is warm when first shut down, but cools in = a=20 minute or so with the fans on.  The rest of the system is warm/hot a= s=20 one would expect.

 

So, your coolant max is 210 but during climb out it raises 25-30 to=20 235  or so degrees for a few minutes or does it hit 210 or= so=20 during climb out and drops to 180-185 in cruse?

 

Thanks guys, this is the kind of stuff I was looking for.  Keep i= t=20 coming please

 

Chris

From: Rotary motors in aircraft=20 [flyrotary@lancaironline.net] on behalf of Bobby J. Hughes=20 [bhughes@qnsi.net]
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2012 10:24=20 AM
To: Rotary motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary]= Re:=20 Ground Cooling

Chris,

 

How=20 much better is your ground cooling with your top cowl removed?

 

I=20 have two fans pulling air through the heat exchanger and the radiator=20 area
where the fans are is cool to the touch with the fans on right af= ter=20 shutdown.

Are=20 you sure the coolant is actually flowing through the radiator core and no= t=20 taking a shortcut? It takes several minutes for my radiator to cool down= =20 enough to touch after shutdown.  I would remove the thermostat and p= lug=20 the hole between the inlet and outlet. Drill a small bleed in the plug to= =20 allow trapped air to pass. I think I used a #30 drill. For my renesis I w= as=20 able to tap the thermostat hole and install a standard size threaded plug= .=20 Don=E2=80=99t remember the details but I measured the opening and selecte= d a tap and=20 plug that would best work with the existing hole size. Could have been a = =C2=BD=20 NPT. 

 

I=20 also added a Schrader valve at the highest point of the pump outlet on th= e=20 engine. When all the trapped air is removed my radiator outlet warms up= =20 confirming coolant flow. It usually takes two or three short runs to blee= d all=20 the air and top off the coolant.  I also monitor all heat exchanger = inlet=20 and outlet temps with CHT wires clamped where needed.  This is not o= nly=20 helpful in flight but also when changing coolant. I can easily tell from = the=20 cockpit if coolant is flowing through the heat exchanger or I need to shu= t=20 down and purge more air.

 

I=20 always anticipate a 25-30F coolant rise for takeoff and climb. My max coo= lant=20 temp is set at 210F but I rarely see over200F.

 

Bobby=20

 

 

 

 

 

From: Rotary mot= ors in=20 aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net] On Behalf Of= =20 Chris Barber
Sent: Wednesday, March 07, 2012 7:35=20 AM
To: Rotary motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary]= =20 Ground Cooling

 

I am=20 cross-posting this from Paul's site.  I should have posted here=20 first.  I think I was just reading that list when I wrote it.=

 

The initial=20 response I do not think really addressed the issue asked about but L= ee=20 Hanover did post some info that I followed through with last night. = Not=20 sure of any measurable difference yet, but at least it provides something= =20 proactive. I know some of us monitor both list so sorry for the=20 redundancy.

 

As I=20 state in the post, I do not know how much ducting effects a pusher when= =20 stationary.  My buddy with a soob on his RV-7 gets quite a bit = of=20 cooling from the prop.....being up front. 

 

Since,=20 as was just mentioned, the list has been quit enough to have us question = if it=20 were still up, perhaps this will jump start us a bit.....

 

Chris

 

Paul,

What=20 kind of temps should we be seeing on the ground?  On Page 19 of
y= our=20 book (I was one of your first purchasers) it mentions even the
P5 = ;1had=20 trouble on taxi and climb out.  No comparison between mine
and a = P-51,=20 but similar concern.  I am currently re-reading it again
to gathe= r=20 potential new insight.  Funny, I understand much more of
it now t= han=20 when I got it :-).  Yes, I understand that it is in
flight that i= s our=20 main concern, but it I heat up too much do to a
long taxi or long hold= or=20 while doing run ups, it may prevent my
flying for a while...especially= if I=20 trash an engine.  I have this
horrible image of me in the pattern= with=20 steam trailing behind my
plane...yes, better than smoke, but still not= =20 good.

I am currently doing my (hopefully final) high rpm engine=20 runs
before attempting first flight.  I have scheduled=20 transitional
training with Velocity, Inc in Florida for early=20 April.

While I seem to maintain reasonable temps while at idle, ev= en=20 higher
idle of around 2000 rpm, even though I seem to run hotter than = I=20 use
to (may be the addition of the turbo since nothing else major=20 was
changed), when I run up the engine WITHOUT any air from the prop= =20 in
my pusher aircraft, my temps soar very quickly, perhaps a minute=20 or
so before I idle back to bring temps down. From the 185/190 to=20 past
220, sometimes a little more for a couple of seconds when I=20 throttle
back.  I hate going this hot and have only done so to te= st=20 full
power twice, but do now wish to trash another set of seals or=20 worse.
  I spoke with another pusher 13b =20 pusher jockeythat says he has the
same until he gets moving. = ; I=20 have not had any boil over
though...yet...?  I don't know if this= is a=20 bigger problem in
pushers since it does not have the big fan up front= =20 pushing air into
the system or not.

I know a lot changes when y= ou go=20 faster and that is where I am
thinking some of the ducting "magic" com= es=20 more into play, but since
I am currently limited to a run up area, aft= er a=20 few minute taxi at
a controlled airport in Houston, I am very stationa= ry=20 and yesterday
it was "only" 80 degrees out and I had to sit and cool d= own=20 before I
ventured to taxi back to the hangar.

My 13b, with wate= r=20 channel mods, street ported by Mazdatrix, a turbo
with low boost for= =20 testing (3 lbs) as much for muffler use as any
(yes, it made a heck of= a=20 difference).  My prop is an in-flight
adjustable 68 inch three bl= ade,=20 with 45 degree full fine IVO.  The
coolant heat exchanger is betw= een=20 the size of John Slade and Dave
Leonard sat 22 x 19 x 3 =3D 1254 or a = frontal=20 area of 418.  I have two
fans pulling air through the heat exchan= ger=20 and the radiator area
where the fans are is cool to the touch with the= fans=20 on right after
shutdown.

I am running up to about 6200 rpm stat= ic=20 with about 32 inch manifold
pressure. I am using Royal Purple syntheti= c=20 oil. 50% water to 50%
coolant with some Water Wetter added.

I h= ave a=20 coolant line from the port on the top of the engine to a
pressure tank= ,=20 then to the recovery tank as illustrated on page 39
to help relieve tr= apped=20 air.  Is there a conventional wisdom other
than this to "burp" th= e air=20 out of the system.  I have actully
lifted the nose to try to shak= e air=20 pockets out.

Again, I am curious as to your and others experiences= on=20 the ground
and taxi as this is before most of the ducting, diffusing= =20 and
wedging comes into play.

As always, your/y'all's input is= =20 appreciated.

Thanks (in=20 advance)

Chris

Houston

Send me some pictures of what= =20 your rad ducting looks like.
I think you are more likely to have= =20 problems on climb out. Pick a
cool day to do testing and climb out at = the=20 highest speed that is
safe. Keep the climb angle shallow until you see= how=20 well it works.
What are the rad core=20 dimensions?

Bulents installation worked pretty good but he di= d=20 away with the
early turbo.

Air outlets are important as well. T= he=20 prop will suck air flowing
over the outlets. Air is somewhat like mola= sses=20 in that it tends to
stick to everything including itself.

His w= edge=20 diffuser could have been a bit better.

10 quarts in the oil pan is= good=20 as it takes longer to heat up 10
quarts rather than only five. My O-47= 0 230=20 HP engine has 12.

Paul Lamar

Do you have the Mazda thermost= at=20 installed? If not, have you plugged the
bypass hole to prevent circula= tion=20 through it? The engine will overheat if
this is left out.

Dale= =20 Davies

Try cutting that antifreeze back to 10% just to help with t= he=20 boiling point. Try a
Stant 22 pound lever cap. Dump the coolant a= nd=20 save it.

Refill with just distilled water and Water Wetter or a=20 teaspoon full of
Dawn dishwashing detergent. Run the system to temp a = few=20 times including some revs to
clean things out. Then Dump that mixture = and=20 refill with 10% coolant and distilled
water and Water Wetter.
The 5= 0/50=20 idea is for winter time and selling lots of Prestone.
The best coolant= is=20 distilled water.

Lynn E. Hanover


My radiator is 22 x 19= x 3=20 =3D 1254.  Yes. I need to fly to verifying ducting. However,
I am= =20 currently focusing on ground temps for start up, getting to the active an= d=20 run
ups. Not sure how ducting does much at this stage with the fan in = the=20 back.

Yes. I am running a thermostat. Honestly, I am uncertain on = which=20 passage to seal off
in order to remove the thermostat. I would hate to= =20 choose wrong.
Directions/illustrations here would be appreciated. I mu= st=20 conceded, pulling the
water pump housing is not an appealing thought r= ight=20 now regardless of how good I
have now gotten at such things on the=20 rotary.

I think I may drain the coolant tonight. I will go the=20 distilled with some warer
wetter i think  Unless the earth t= ilts=20 its axis, Houston is not in direct peril=20 from
cold.

Chris

Houston

 

<= /DIV>
 --part1_28ed.a470d61.3c8927c4_boundary--