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Thanks Dave. Yes the larger radiators I purchased (between the size of Dave Leanards and John Slades, also turbos) is double pass. I tested the thermostat today and it open as designed. I did drill a couple of holes in it tho. I also tried to belch my system. I ran for awhile with the radiator cap off and also loosened the AN fitting for the hose that comes from the coolant port on the top rear side plate to hopefully get the air out. I even lifted the nose a shook the plane attempting to force air out. Ok. Lifting the nose may have been useful only in my mind. Well, seems like I have some improvement. I idled for quite a while (didn't check the clock as intended) at around 1700 rpm, prop fine pitched (45 - 105 IVO), 68 inch prop. Temps stabilized at about 193 coolant, 180 oil. When I increased power a bit temps rose, but they would slowly come down when powered back. Oh, for Houston it was chilly at 60 ish degrees. Sent from my iPhone 4
On Feb 26, 2012, at 1:51 PM, "Dave" <david.staten@gmail.com> wrote:
On 2/26/2012 11:29 AM, Chris Barber wrote:
I have been searching the archives but to scant successes regarding thermostats use or lack of use for cooling.
I have been having issue with cooling lately. I use to be able to idle on the ramp for over an hour in the middle of a Houston summer with adequate cooling. However, lately temps are rising faster and higher.
Yesterday, while troubleshooting this issue I noted that after about a ten minute taxi that the mounting location of my coolant temp probes was reading about 220 degrees measured with a handheld thermo gage, close to what was being indicated on the panel However, the top of the radiator was cool to the touch. The handheld thermo gage read 45 degrees. Ok. Seems to be a flow/thermostat/pump issue. I will be Looking into this ASAP.
This got me to think about thermostat usage. I have one. I know some do not use them.
It is my understanding that if you remove the thermostat you have to close some passage off. What passage is this and why does this need to be done. Also, what is the accepted method.
While researching I also saw discussion on restrictive plates. While I am not considering a restrictive plate, the thread discussed drilling holes in the thermostat itself. Lynn mentioned do it caught my interest.
It seems this is something I use to know but now forget where I saw it. I just finished reviewing my partial scan of Tracy's conversion manual to no avail and my archive search is giving me hundreds of returns.
Thanks,
Chris
Sent from my iPhone 4
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The first engine we built had no thermostat, and had "that" port plugged. The thermostat is essentially a Y valve... When cold, it is closed, and water is diverted through a bypass hole back to the engine. When warm it opens, diverting water from the bypass channel and sending it through the radiator. Of course this is a gradual change from one position to the other, as a result of thermal expansion.
If you believe your instrumentation is correct now, and was correct then, with regards to temperatures and your idle ability, then what has changed?
Has the thermostat failed or become plugged? Has airflow over the radiator changed? Is this the same radiator you saw the long low temp idles with? (I bought that dual pass cross over radiator for a specific reason - to put a cooling fan on one small part of the rad, allowing forced airflow to cool ALL of the coolant as it passed through one of the pass channels - if you replaced the radiator was it a dual-pass as well?) Using the dual pass rad with a fan only over 1/4 of the rad surface would provide a large surface for ram air cooling at speed while still permitting very effective fan-forced cooling on the ground and at idle.
Dave Staten
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