X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from imr-mb01.mx.aol.com ([64.12.207.164] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.3.10) with ESMTP id 4542076 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Tue, 26 Oct 2010 00:54:42 -0400 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=64.12.207.164; envelope-from=Lehanover@aol.com Received: from imo-ma04.mx.aol.com (imo-ma04.mx.aol.com [64.12.78.139]) by imr-mb01.mx.aol.com (8.14.1/8.14.1) with ESMTP id o9Q4s0jN004612 for ; Tue, 26 Oct 2010 00:54:00 -0400 Received: from Lehanover@aol.com by imo-ma04.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v42.9.) id q.c90.65147406 (37521) for ; Tue, 26 Oct 2010 00:53:57 -0400 (EDT) Received: from magic-m19.mail.aol.com (magic-m19.mail.aol.com [172.21.136.208]) by cia-ma08.mx.aol.com (v129.5) with ESMTP id MAILCIAMA086-92914cc65ee51cc; Tue, 26 Oct 2010 00:53:57 -0400 From: Lehanover@aol.com Message-ID: <7e5cf.1c401db.39f7b8e5@aol.com> Date: Tue, 26 Oct 2010 00:53:57 EDT Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Water Cooling and Oil Cooling Connection To: flyrotary@lancaironline.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="part1_7e5cf.1c401db.39f7b8e5_boundary" X-Mailer: 9.0 Security Edition for Windows sub 5381 X-AOL-IP: 173.88.9.178 X-Spam-Flag:NO X-AOL-SENDER: Lehanover@aol.com --part1_7e5cf.1c401db.39f7b8e5_boundary Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 10/25/2010 10:40:49 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, jwhaley@datacast.com writes: Thanks to all for the info and follow-up questions. My oil cooling system has 2 coolers 11x6x2.75 for a total of 360 cubic inches mounted in the cheeks. The water radiator (22x5.5x5) is approx. 600 cubic inches mounted underneath the engine. The air inlets and outlets are separate. What are the actual temperatures? - well this is dependent upon operating conditions but regardless of conditions, my oil temperature is always about 40 degrees cooler than water. This in itself isn't a problem; the problem is that my water temperature is reaching redline (225-230F) after a full throttle climb for approximately 1.5 minutes with OAT 80F, meanwhile oil is 180-185F. Cruise at OAT=80F will give 190F water temp and oil about 150F. Conversely, a full throttle climb for approximately 1.5 minutes on a day with OAT at 40F, my water temperature stabilizes at 180F and oil sitting around 140F. Cruise at OAT=40F will give 150F water temp and oil about 110F. No thermostat and no cowl flaps so temps are directly related to air temperature. So Lynn, I don't have too much oil cooling but definitely not enough water cooling. What to do? Can I risk sacrificing/trading some of my oil cooling in the hopes of improving water temperatures and will the improved water temperature situation limit the adverse affects on oil temperature? Or should I leave my oil cooling system alone and concentrate on the water cooling loop separately? Jeff The water red line should be about 210. That 230 reading is climbing out of a box canyon or I die reading. More climb speed. Less climb angle may help flow out of the cowl. Richer climb mixture. Stay well rich of best power. Look for low 12s on the F/A meter and or under 1600 degrees on the EGTs. Spray water on the radiator. Very effective. Every bit of air entering the scoop must exit through the radiator. Ducting must seal tightly to the radiator sides. Take out a degree or two of ignition advance. A controllable choke behind one of the oil coolers could keep temps high enough, and if there is a single inlet for both water and oil cooler air, more air would go through the water radiator. A bigger water radiator, or an additional radiator. In cold weather you can run a conventional American style thermostat with a 3/16" hole drilled through the highest edge to let bubbles through. I tried 3 such holes the first time and the thermostat would not open. The 3 holes cooled the engine just fine, but the water temp was about 140. Plug the passage between the two sides of the pump body when going conventional. Use a 160 degree thermostat. Last choice pull off some power. Conventional oils add lots of drag when too cold. Not so much in synthetics. Lynn E. Hanover --part1_7e5cf.1c401db.39f7b8e5_boundary Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
In a message dated 10/25/2010 10:40:49 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,=20 jwhaley@datacast.com writes:
Thanks to al= l for the info=20 and follow-up questions.
My oil cooling system has 2= coolers=20 11x6x2.75 for a total of 360 cubic inches mounted in the cheeks. = The=20 water radiator (22x5.5x5) is approx. 600 cubic inches mounted underneath= the=20 engine. The air inlets and outlets are separate.
What are=20 the actual temperatures? - well this is dependent upon operating conditi= ons=20 but regardless of conditions, my oil temperature is always about 40 degr= ees=20 cooler than water.
This in itself isn't a probl= em;=20 the problem is= that my water=20 temperature is reaching redline (225-230F) after a full throttle cl= imb=20 for approximately 1.5 minutes with OAT 80F, meanwhile oil is 180-185F.= Cruise=20 at OAT=3D80F will give
190F wat= er temp and=20 oil about 150F. Conversely,= a full=20 throttle climb for approximately 1.5 minutes on a day with OAT at 40F,= my=20 water temperature stabilizes at 180F and oil sitting around 140F. Cruise at OAT=3D40F will give 150F
water temp and oil about 110F.  N= o=20 thermostat and no cowl flaps so temps are directly related to air= =20 temperature.
So Lynn, I don't have too mu= ch oil=20 cooling but definitely not enough water cooling. What to do?
Can I risk sacrificing/tradi= ng some of=20 my oil cooling in the hopes of improving water temperatures and will the= =20 improved water temperature situation limit the adverse affects on= oil=20 temperature?
Or should I leave my oil cooling system alone and concent= rate on=20 the water cooling loop separately?
Jeff
The water red line should be about 210. That 230 reading is climbing= out of=20 a box canyon or I die reading.
 
More climb speed. Less climb angle may help flow out of the cowl. Ric= her=20 climb mixture. Stay well rich of best power. Look for low 12s on the F/A= meter=20 and or under 1600 degrees on the EGTs. Spray water on the radiator.= Very=20 effective. Every bit of air entering the scoop must exit through the radia= tor.=20 Ducting must seal tightly to the radiator sides. Take out a degree or two= of=20 ignition advance. A controllable choke behind one of the oil coolers could= keep=20 temps high enough, and if there is a single inlet for both water and oil= cooler=20 air, more air would go through the water radiator.
 
A bigger water radiator, or an additional radiator. In cold weather= you can=20 run a conventional American style thermostat with a 3/16" hole drilled thr= ough=20 the highest edge to let bubbles through. I tried 3 such holes the first ti= me and=20 the thermostat would not open. The 3 holes cooled the engine just fine, bu= t the=20 water temp was about 140. Plug the passage between the two sides of the pu= mp=20 body when going conventional. Use a 160 degree thermostat.
 
Last choice pull off some power.
 
Conventional oils add lots of drag when too cold. Not so much in=20 synthetics.
 
Lynn E. Hanover 
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