Years ago I broke the tail-shaft housing clear off of a racing transmission. That ruined the drive shaft and yoke, the transmission main shaft, and made a giant mess in the car and on the race track. A weekend lost and very expensive damage.

 

There was a proposed fix that was to build up the housing OD and bore it out to suit a big roller bearing set. Then a hardened yoke is needed as well. Very popular in IMSA cars. More expensive. The driver didn't notice the vibration, only that it would not stay in 5th.

 

One of the old guys at the track said you don't need all that stuff, just cool the oil.

 

The trans got too hot and pitched out the seal, dumping the oil. The bushing followed the seal out onto the yoke.

 

Put in a groove behind the bushing, and feed the cooling oil into that groove. This cools the casting behind the bushing and keeps it clamped in place. But to be sure, I use a set screw as shown. I use a "O" ring boss fitting rather than a pipe fitting as the hot casting tends to let the tapered pipe threads leak a bit of oil. The boss fitting has more threads engaged and an "O" ring to seal the oil in. Put the fitting and screw on top of the casting.

 

My seals are mechanically retained against a thin "O" ring and Non Hardening Permatex.

 

Never lost a drop of oil.

 

If your bushing has only one hole, take the time to install at least 3 to 5 additional holes in the same plane. Chamfer holes inside and out. Install a spreader groove in the top hole only.

 

You can install double lip seals that have both lips facing the oil for more protection, but be sure to put lubricant between the lips to keep the outer seal alive. There are seals that have the spring loaded lip facing the oil, and an unloaded lip facing outboard to keep dirt out. Again put lubricant between the lips to keep the outboard lip alive. It works for me.

 

Lynn E. Hanover