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Is there room to add separate bolt holes & still maintain required edge distances/spacing? If so, you could drill undersize & ream to fit standard bolts.
Another thought would be to look at availability of stronger aluminum rivets; there are multiple alloys of rivets in various strengths.
Charlie
On 3/21/2010 11:30 AM, Mark Steitle wrote:
Al,
Bolts were AN3-6A, but not of the close tolerance variety... not a bad idea though. Does Van's sell those?
Mark S.
On Sun, Mar 21, 2010 at 10:53 AM, Al Gietzen <ALVentures@cox.net <mailto:ALVentures@cox.net>> wrote:
The rivets are aluminum.
I find this surprising, as well as disappointing.
I checked the rivets on my RD2-C damper assembly and was able to
confirm that they were in fact beginning to loosen as evidenced by
the radial streaks on the damper plate. I picked four rivets at
random, approx. 90 degrees apart, and grabbed the shop heads with
vice grips and tried to spin them. All four would spin with
little effort, thus confirming that they were beginning to loosen.
After a phone call to Tracy, we decided to replace the ring of
rivets with AN3 bolts, which I've now done.
One advantage to rivets is that they fill the holes to zero
tolerance. The bolts will be MUCH stronger, but I’m wondering
about the potential for some very small amount of ‘play’ to begin
with, which would not be a good thing. I don’t know much about
steel rivets, but maybe that’s the way to go.
Mark; what nominal length and grip length on the bolts? Are you
using standard AN bolts or are there ‘true’ diameter or ‘close
tolerance’ bolts available.
Al
Hum-m-m; I just decided I could change schedules in order to fly
to the Jean, NV gathering next week. Now I’m wondering whether to
fly anywhere before changing out the rivets. I’m thinking that
since I see no movement between flange and plate after 180 hours,
it should be good for at least a few more hours.
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