X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from omta4.toronto.rmgopenwave.com ([4.59.182.102] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.3.1) with ESMTP id 4085656 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Sun, 17 Jan 2010 10:28:26 -0500 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=4.59.182.102; envelope-from=lacombr@nbnet.nb.ca Received: from torspm04.toronto.rmgopenwave.com ([142.167.83.240]) by tormtz05.toronto.rmgopenwave.com (InterMail vM.8.00.01.00 201-2244-105-20090324) with ESMTP id <20100117152748.DFEQ4290.tormtz05.toronto.rmgopenwave.com@torspm04.toronto.rmgopenwave.com> for ; Sun, 17 Jan 2010 10:27:48 -0500 Received: from PCdeRita ([142.167.83.240]) by torspm04.toronto.rmgopenwave.com with SMTP id <20100117152747.SGDK30795.torspm04.toronto.rmgopenwave.com@PCdeRita> for ; Sun, 17 Jan 2010 10:27:47 -0500 Message-ID: From: "Rino" To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" References: In-Reply-To: Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Lapping Housings Date: Sun, 17 Jan 2010 11:27:36 -0400 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0045_01CA9768.11C8DD90" X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Windows Mail 6.0.6002.18005 X-MIMEOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.0.6002.18005 X-Opwv-CommTouchExtSvcRefID: str=0001.0A020208.4B532C74.00A6,ss=1,fgs=0 This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0045_01CA9768.11C8DD90 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable I used a new (flat) sharpening stone, rectangular, about 4" long by 2" = wide. Rino ----- Original Message -----=20 From: Kelly Troyer=20 To: Rotary motors in aircraft=20 Sent: Sunday, January 17, 2010 10:59 AM Subject: [FlyRotary] Lapping Housings Rino, Did you you use a random orbital sander for the preliminary = step as suggested by Lynn before lapping your housings ??................ Thanks, Kelly Troyer -------------- Original message from Lynn Hanover = : --------------=20 This is a similar question about smoothing an iron I did for the = "Nopistons" list. This is for irons that have been run so long they have = developed a chrome like finish. New seals will take a year to seat in on = a chrome finish. Same as honing a cylinder in a piston engine. I prefer = the better oil holding of a deeper finish to that of a stock Mazda. But = almost anything will work.=20 Also Yawpower has the web site back up, and I urge you to read all = of his tech articles about rotaries.=20 http://www.yawpower.com/CompanyInfo.html You can lap the surface yourself and you can get it ready with a = random orbital sander. Used dry with 180 grit paper, this alone will get most of the surface close to one color. You = can run the front iron against the front side of the center iron with = oil and valve grinding compound in between. Wipe it off now and then to = be sure all of the surface=20 has a flat finish with no shiny spots. This will produce a very = satisfactory result on both irons. About half way through, rotate the = top iron 180 degrees so the ports are not together the whole time. If = you have a mill or access to one make a bar and plate with holes in the = plate to mount a bearing on a bolt. Plant the bearing in the center = hole, so it impinges the iron about one inch. Run the mill slowly and = keep adding grinding paste as you go along. A few layers of Visqueen under the bottom plate will keep the mill = clean and allow reuse of the paste. Bolt on a rod of some kind and run = the rod through a fixed bracket or just any bracket on the bed to keep = the iron from spinning. Then you flip the center iron over and do the = same again with the rear iron. If you drill press has an electronic = speed control that allows for very slow rotation, you can use it as = well. This method costs nearly nothing and produces very flat irons with = a nice oil holding finish. Clean the irons at the car wash with high = pressure water and soap. Spray with WD-40.=20 You can do this by hand as well, but it will take all day long. = This can be done quite a few times without bothering the nitride. Piece = of cake. This has to do with finish, and is not much help with wear = grooves since it removes very little material. Lynn E. Hanover ------=_NextPart_000_0045_01CA9768.11C8DD90 Content-Type: text/html; charset="utf-8" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable =EF=BB=BF
I used a new (flat) sharpening stone, = rectangular,=20 about 4" long by 2" wide.
 
Rino
----- Original Message -----
From:=20 Kelly = Troyer
Sent: Sunday, January 17, 2010 = 10:59=20 AM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Lapping=20 Housings

 
     = Rino,
       Did you = you use a=20 random orbital sander for the preliminary step as suggested
by Lynn before lapping your housings=20 ??................
 
    Thanks,
   Kelly = Troyer
 
--------------=20 Original message from Lynn Hanover <lehanover@gmail.com>:=20 --------------

This is a similar question about smoothing an iron I did for = the=20 "Nopistons" list. This is for irons that have been run so long = they have=20 developed a chrome like finish. New seals will take a year to seat = in on a=20 chrome finish. Same as honing a cylinder in a piston engine. I = prefer the=20 better oil holding of a deeper finish to that of a stock Mazda. = But almost=20 anything will work. 
 
Also Yawpower has the web site back up, and I urge you to = read all of=20 his tech articles about rotaries. 
 
http://www.yawpower.com= /CompanyInfo.html
 
You can lap the surface yourself and you can get it ready = with a=20 random orbital sander. Used dry with 180 grit paper,
this alone = will=20 get most of the surface close to one color. You can run the front = iron=20 against the front side of the center iron with oil and valve = grinding=20 compound in between. Wipe it off now and then to be sure all of = the=20 surface
has a flat finish with no shiny spots. This will = produce a=20 very satisfactory result on both irons. About half way through, = rotate the=20 top iron 180 degrees so the ports are not together the whole time. = If you=20 have a mill or access to one make a bar and plate with holes in = the plate=20 to mount a bearing on a bolt. Plant the bearing in the center = hole, so it=20 impinges the iron about one inch. Run the mill slowly and keep = adding=20 grinding paste as you go along.
A few layers of Visqueen under = the=20 bottom plate will keep the mill clean and allow reuse of the = paste. Bolt=20 on a rod of some kind and run the rod through a fixed bracket or = just any=20 bracket on the bed to keep the iron from spinning. Then you flip = the=20 center iron over and do the same again with the rear iron. If you = drill=20 press has an electronic speed control that allows for very slow = rotation,=20 you can use it as well.

This method costs nearly nothing = and=20 produces very flat irons with a nice oil holding finish. Clean the = irons=20 at the car wash with high pressure water and soap. Spray with = WD-40.=20

You can do this by hand as well, but it will take all day = long.=20 This can be done quite a few times without bothering the nitride. = Piece of=20 cake. This has to do with finish, and is not much help with wear = grooves=20 since it removes very little material.

Lynn E.=20 Hanover
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