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David and All,
I am in complete agreement with the need for the expansion tank !!...........It also prevents
coolant loss into the overflow (pluke) can when coolant expansion causes a hydraulic lock and
pushes coolant past the pressure cap...........What ever bypasses the pressure cap will not be
returned to the system until complete cool down and after many heat cycles can result in a
gradual loss of coolant.............Should you fail to provide a overflow can you will certainly
lose coolant very quickly.............IMHO
--
Kelly Troyer
"Dyke Delta"_13B ROTARY Engine
"RWS"_RD1C/EC2/EM2
"Mistral"_Backplate/Oil Manifold
-------------- Original message from hoursaway1@comcast.net: --------------
You need some kind of header/expansion tank in sys. with aprox 4 to 8 square inches of air, allows sys. to pressurise more easily & maintains a steady pressure. David Cook RV6A Rotary.
----- Original Message -----
From: SHIPCHIEF@aol.com
To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Saturday, September 12, 2009 12:42:10 PM GMT -05:00 US/Canada Eastern
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: cooling plumbing design [ right?, right? :-) ]
I guess that answered my question;
I have the 'water flowing thru the tank with radiator cap on the tank'.
I did it to make sure all air is continuously removed from the system. Any bubbles would go to the top of the thermostat housing and flow to the top of the tank. The line from the bottom of the tank goes to the water pump suction to assure that the engine stays full.
When filling the system for the first time, the water enters the tank thru the cap, and flows out into the engine thru the bottom 5/16ths hose, air departs thru the upper hose until the system is full.
When the engine is started, any trapped air in the forward part of the engine gets pushed thru the turbo bearing housing cooling line back to the water pump suction, where it rises thru the vent hole in the pump housing to the top, then is pushed to the head tank. Effective, heavy.
I see now that I can put the fill cap on the thermostat housing, and run a hose to the burp tank bottom. Skip the header tank and remove a few pounds from the fire wall.
Put a tee in the fwd 'vent' that sends cooling water thru the turbo, and open it when filling the system to purge air. Connect the cooling water pressure sensor here.
Small remaining bubbles would acumulate in the thermostat housing/filler neck where they would stay until enough system expansion pushed them out the cap to the burp can. Upon cooling, system vacuum pulls water from the bottom of the burp can, until no air remains in the engine...like the car.
DOH! And I spent so much time and effort on the old system.
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