Yes, you really don’t want to hang a
potential “bomb” by 0.032 sheet metal. Numerous ways to do
it. I put a piece of scrap aluminum angle inside riveted against a
vertical structure (floor rib as I recall). Then I put a rivet nut/plate nut on
that to carry the load of the muffler – has worked for a number of years
including one landing so hard I bent the main gear. Mufflers stay in place
{:>)
Ed
From: Rotary motors in aircraft
[mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net] On
Behalf Of Bobby J. Hughes
Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2009
9:27 PM
To: Rotary
motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Moving
muffler to belly
Thanks for the input everyone. The front
of the muffler can be supported from the motor mount. The rear muffler mount is
the dilemma. I hate the idea of an external doubler but I think it really needs
one.
Bobby
From: Rotary motors in aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net]
On Behalf Of Tracy Crook
Sent: Thursday, August 13, 2009
12:10 PM
To: Rotary
motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Moving
muffler to belly
Mine is less than 1"
from the belly to keep it in the turbulent slipstream behind the cooling exit
and avoid drag. A .007" thick piece of SS heat shield is riveted to
the belly in this area. The SS expands when heated and creates its own
airgap for insulation.
Tracy
On Thu, Aug 13, 2009 at 10:08 AM, Bobby J. Hughes <bhughes@qnsi.net> wrote:
I've had the plane down for a few weeks making several
changes. I would like to move my muffler out of the cowl to the airframe belly.
How much space should I leave between the top of the muffler and bottom skin?
My exit fairing hangs down about 5" below the airframe. What have others
done for heat shielding \ paint protection? Since the floor pans are
installed any riveting will have to be with blind rivets. Don't really want to
put a bunch of extra holes in the skin for this experiment. Any advice or
pictures would be appreciated.
--
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