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Date: Mon, 29 Jun 2009 07:31:04 -0700
Message-ID: <1ab24f410906290731t39df3932xf6b9b869b134e45@mail.gmail.com>
Subject: Startup oil.
From: Lynn Hanover <lehanover@gmail.com>
To: flyrotary@lancaironline.net
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In olden times the thin oil was by the stove, and the thick oil was over
there by the door, except in the summer time when thick oil was not
available. Then Castrol invented thick oil for the summer time.

The object of breakin oil was to provide a period of low stress running to
level the poured babbit bearings
before great stress was applied. Just yesterday I assembled a 144 cubic inch
Ford Falcon engine, and one of the instructions is to smack the center main
cap (number three) fore and aft to center up the thrust flanges. The thrust
bearing is in the number three main bearing rather than the rear main as is
the normal case.

You also do a similar move on the rod caps as there is a dismal cap
alignment system. So, you really do need a (plastic) hammer to build a Ford
engine. Quality is job one here at Ford.

The rotary has no poured bearings. The bearings are so big for the stress
involved that even screaming the engines in racing seldom causes bearing
problems. The comment about a frew hundred more RPM after a few hours of
running is exactly the correct observation. The side seals (soft cast iron)
begin to seal just a bit better, as they develop a smooth shiny surface to
run against the Nitrided cast irons.

The stock oil pump puts out 71 pounds in early 13Bs and 12As or 115 pounds
in FD (twin turbos) with a red line of 9,000 RPM. The object of higher than
stock oil pressure is to move heated oil off of the bearing face. That soft
grey stuff on the bearing surface has a low melting temperature and you
don't want it to melt and move around the bearing. Ever notice the edges of
a highly stressed bearing have little flakes of silver building up?

You cannot cool a bearing face with scalding hot oil. That is why I often
whine about oil temps being too high.

Multi grade oils have long polymer chains that link up when heated to
increase flow resistance
(thick oil?). So you can build a cold weather oil with good cold flow, and
still maintain good oil pressure at operating temps when those chains link
up. Like a 5 W 50 oil where the actual oil is a 5 weight Easy pouring oil
and it has a lot of plastic in it to make it act like 50 weight oil at
operating temps.

Oil that can obsorb energy and give up energy quickly is good. Oil that has
great anti-scuff compounds is good. Oil that has a high film strength is
good. Oil that does not foam up is good. Foamed oil is full of air, and
becomes an insulator, and the air displaces the oil, so lubrication is
reduced. The rotary has an oil foaming problem.

If you maintain the stock oil injection pump (metering pump) you might want
an oil with very little polymer content. Like a straight weight conventional
oil. Just don't rev it up when its ice cold. Synthetic oils just about will
not burn, or the burn is incomplete, and make a slimy mess in the exhaust
system. If you use the OMP but feed it a real 2 cycle oil (designed to burn
cleanly) then you can use a synthetic crank case oil. Or, if you premix your
top oil instead of using the OMP, you can use a real 2 cycle oil, and get a
nice clean burn.

Racing oils have more zink and, or, zink like compounds, have high film
strength, and lots of antifoaming agents. Are made from conventional base
stocks and in straight weights have very few polymers. Are available
everywhere and not expensive. Not as much as synthetics anyway.

I use 40 weight RedLine synthetic in the sump (dry sump reserve tank) and
RedLine 2 cycle synthetic as the premix at one ounce per galon of 93 octane
(no alcohol) pump gas. The engines are only used between 7,500 and 9,600
RPM. No oil related failures since 1980.

So, a good break in oil would be one that does not lubricate well, for our
use. All we need is a bit better sealing, and that will come to pass in a
few weekends for me, or a few months of use for an airplane.

When it is time to fly put in the good oil, whatever you think that might
be. I would use a straight weight (40 wt.) Valvolene racing with the OMP
working. Or a sythetic 40 wt. With a 2 cycle for a premix.

Any conventional straight weight (30wt.) motor oil for breakin is fine. I do
2 hours at 2,200 RPM for all new seals. Then open the filter and look at the
crap you left in the engine, and look for bearing material.

Straight 40 weight oil is fine. That 5W30 and 10W40 is street oil for 2,200
RPM street use. If you jump in and turn it up to 6,000 at full throttle for
three hours, that is not street use.

This information is free, and may be worth every penny.

Lynn E. Hanover

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<div>In olden times the thin oil was by the stove, and the thick oil was ov=
er there by the door, except in the summer time when thick oil was not avai=
lable. Then Castrol invented thick oil for the summer time.</div>
<div>=A0</div>
<div>The object of breakin oil was to provide a period of low stress runnin=
g to level the poured babbit bearings</div>
<div>before great stress was applied. Just yesterday I assembled a 144 cubi=
c inch Ford Falcon engine, and one of the instructions is to smack the cent=
er main cap (number three) fore and aft to center up the thrust flanges. Th=
e thrust bearing is in the number three main bearing rather than the rear m=
ain as is the normal case. </div>

<div>=A0</div>
<div>You also do a similar move on the rod caps as there is a dismal cap al=
ignment system. So, you really do need a (plastic) hammer to build a Ford e=
ngine. Quality is job one here at Ford.</div>
<div>=A0</div>
<div>The rotary has no poured bearings. The bearings are so big for the str=
ess involved that even screaming the engines in racing seldom causes bearin=
g problems. The comment about a frew hundred more RPM after a few hours of =
running is exactly the correct observation. The side seals (soft cast iron)=
 begin to seal just=A0a bit better, as they develop a smooth shiny surface =
to run against the Nitrided cast irons.=A0</div>

<div>=A0</div>
<div>The stock oil pump puts out 71 pounds in early 13Bs and 12As or 115 po=
unds in FD (twin turbos) with a red line of 9,000 RPM. The object of higher=
 than stock oil pressure is to move heated oil off of the bearing face. Tha=
t soft grey stuff on the bearing surface has a low melting temperature and =
you don&#39;t want it to melt and move around the bearing. Ever notice the =
edges of a highly stressed bearing have little flakes of silver building up=
?=A0</div>

<div>=A0</div>
<div>You cannot cool a bearing face with scalding hot oil. That is why I of=
ten whine about oil temps being too high.=A0</div>
<div>=A0</div>
<div>Multi grade oils have long polymer chains that link up when heated to =
increase flow resistance </div>
<div>(thick oil?). So you can build a cold weather oil with good cold flow,=
 and still maintain good oil pressure at operating temps when those chains =
link up. Like a 5 W 50 oil where the actual oil is a 5 weight Easy pouring =
oil and it has a lot of plastic in it to make it act like 50 weight oil at =
operating temps.=A0</div>

<div>=A0</div>
<div>Oil that can obsorb energy and give up energy quickly is good. Oil tha=
t has great anti-scuff compounds is good. Oil that has a high film strength=
 is good. Oil that does not foam up is good. Foamed oil is full of air, and=
 becomes an insulator, and the air displaces the oil, so lubrication is red=
uced.=A0The rotary has an oil foaming problem. </div>

<div>=A0</div>
<div>If you maintain the stock oil injection pump (metering pump) you might=
 want an oil with very little polymer content. Like a straight weight conve=
ntional oil. Just don&#39;t rev it up when its ice cold. Synthetic oils jus=
t about will not burn, or the burn is incomplete, and make a slimy mess in =
the exhaust system. If you use the OMP but feed it a real 2 cycle oil (desi=
gned to burn cleanly) then you can use a synthetic crank case oil. Or, if y=
ou premix your top oil instead of using the OMP, you can use a real 2 cycle=
 oil, and get a nice clean burn.=A0=A0</div>

<div>=A0</div>
<div>Racing oils have more zink and, or, zink like compounds, have high fil=
m strength, and lots of antifoaming agents. Are made from conventional base=
 stocks and in straight weights have very few polymers. Are available every=
where and not expensive. Not as much as synthetics anyway. </div>

<div>=A0</div>
<div>I use 40 weight RedLine synthetic in the sump (dry sump reserve tank) =
and RedLine 2 cycle synthetic as the premix at one ounce per galon of 93 oc=
tane (no alcohol) pump gas. The engines are only used between 7,500 and 9,6=
00 RPM. No oil related failures since 1980. </div>

<div>=A0</div>
<div>So, a good break in oil would be one that does not lubricate well, for=
 our use. All we need is a bit better sealing, and that will come to pass i=
n a few weekends for me, or a few months of use=A0for an airplane.=A0</div>

<div>=A0</div>
<div>When it is time to fly put in the good oil, whatever you think that mi=
ght be. I would use a straight weight (40 wt.) Valvolene racing with the OM=
P working. Or a sythetic 40 wt. With a 2 cycle for a premix.=A0</div>
<div>=A0</div>
<div>Any conventional straight weight (30wt.) motor oil for breakin is fine=
. I do 2 hours at 2,200 RPM for all new seals. Then open the filter and loo=
k at the crap you left in the engine, and look for bearing material.=A0=A0<=
/div>

<div>=A0</div>
<div>Straight 40=A0weight oil is fine. That 5W30 and 10W40 is street oil fo=
r 2,200 RPM street use. If you jump in and turn it up to 6,000 at full thro=
ttle for three hours, that is not street use.=A0=A0</div>
<div>=A0</div>
<div>This information is free, and may be worth every penny.</div>
<div>=A0</div>
<div>Lynn E. Hanover</div>
<div>=A0</div>
<div>=A0=A0=A0</div>
<div>=A0</div>
<div>=A0</div>

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