Ok, Michael, certainly more than one way
to make it work.
The “Plugs” up requires no
modification to the engine – other than you will need to extend your oil
pickup for the sump which I placed below the block and of course make a sump.
So making the plate to cover the pan opening is probably the only thing that
takes some care – the only really crucial area is to make certain the
plate (I used 3/16” 6061T-6) seals against the oil intake boss of the
block. Any air leaks will severely compromise the ability of the oil pump to
suck oil {:>).
I lined up the plate and the two bolt
holes for the pickup mounting by cutting the heads off of two bolts, filing the
head end to a point and then inserting the two bolts with sharpened points into
the bolt holes – point outward naturally. I then carefully line up the
plate to block and clamped it there so it wouldn’t move – I then
gentle tapped with a brass hammer over the two bolt holes and the pointed ends
indented the aluminum plate exactly where the holes should be drilled. There
are other ways but that worked best for me. I also marked several of the pan
bolt holes for alignment then took it off,
aligned the pan bolt hold marks with
corresponding holes in the actual oil pan and then clamped the two together to
mark all the rest of the pan holes with a match hole punch.
If interested, I can send you a photo of
my oil pan.
I did move the starter hole in the RWS
redrive to match what I already had when using the Ross Drive, so you need to check and see
if you need to – I would presume not - if starting from scratch.
Ed
From: Rotary motors in aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net]
On Behalf Of Michael Silvius
Sent: Monday, June 29, 2009 9:30
AM
To: Rotary
motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Michael
in Soggy Main[FlyRotary] Re: More progress, more questions....
Ed:
Yes, I agree with that assessment. The
reason I am making that choice is that at my current level of knowledge I am
better prepared to deal with the problems of tuning and operating a carburetor
than those of developing a functioning FI system and am reasonably certain I
can make it work and am also willing to live with the limitations of a
carburetor. As I progress this may change and I may be better equipped to
handle the complexity of the FI induction. Right now I am aiming for a purely
gravity fed carb not dependent on electrics at all.
In fact I was considering switching
to a plugs up set up to make a gravity fed carb even more convenient.
Beyond the new "side saddle" oil sump set up what other changes
were necessary for you to get the engine to operate correctly on its side?
did you need to modify any of the internal plumbing/oil galleries on the
engine to cope with the 90 deg turn?
I will touch base with Oly for his input
on the carb matter.
Michael in Maine, where it is still raining
----- Original Message -----
Also, do not think that choosing the
carburetor is going to eliminate potential problems, you’re simply
swapping one set for another. While carburetor (like the EC2) will
certainly work, I encourage you to check with my friend Oly
Olson who can reveal some of those associated challenges.
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