X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from mail-pz0-f194.google.com ([209.85.222.194] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.2.14) with ESMTP id 3735903 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Mon, 29 Jun 2009 02:51:51 -0400 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=209.85.222.194; envelope-from=fluffysheap@gmail.com Received: by pzk32 with SMTP id 32so216718pzk.7 for ; Sun, 28 Jun 2009 23:51:15 -0700 (PDT) DKIM-Signature: v=1; a=rsa-sha256; c=relaxed/relaxed; d=gmail.com; s=gamma; h=domainkey-signature:mime-version:received:in-reply-to:references :date:message-id:subject:from:to:content-type; bh=HKqZv5xbYC7qFYx3zrbSeo35YpM94fltBKhTxMG9jro=; b=TtZCAzcGRrkKue91a7N3sNV/FdU/35R+R63YvwvbdZmWjNPLnI+IZj1iJMlf6ZBiiy bt+fyY2VAd5rWtZZMkrgZ6iJ61m4gZYCvLnt25dOPOQdqSIDtgRNXESY63vRVGUH6zOO 2rUVzcMuYq+cj7CubCfx3Wq8gHTk+7AUCy5AE= DomainKey-Signature: a=rsa-sha1; c=nofws; d=gmail.com; s=gamma; h=mime-version:in-reply-to:references:date:message-id:subject:from:to :content-type; b=p/NuXkpwDJ2zOHZb3o7ETTNjX2auC3X0hNHi/tGVnRHd0LAncx3TpCy5LOuujerZs7 HXC88mKA70UJmW5zs9baUv6RjHZhhw6qZtNhuNpuFG4K/j/xRswVw0Nr7zAeqq29NrAC ngzmv0IwCposFbXFIytaqJRw6MfD5s5QhrWLQ= MIME-Version: 1.0 Received: by 10.141.40.20 with SMTP id s20mr971084rvj.164.1246258275024; Sun, 28 Jun 2009 23:51:15 -0700 (PDT) In-Reply-To: References: Date: Sun, 28 Jun 2009 23:51:15 -0700 Message-ID: Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Startup Oil From: William Wilson To: Rotary motors in aircraft Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary=000e0cd1b43ec80082046d771dde --000e0cd1b43ec80082046d771dde Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Straight 40 or 50 is WAY too thick for engine oil. Your engine will have t= o get almost all the way to operating temperature before it would get any significant lubrication at all. Typical break in oils are thinner than usual, not thicker. When the parts are still seating in on a new engine it is harder for the oil to get in there so you need a thinner oil to make sur= e everything gets lubricated. When starting up, you always want the thinnest oil you can get, because the most important . Even in hot weather, on startup, 10 weight is about as thick as you want. The only reason we don't use 0W50 for everything is because nobody can make it. There is nothing really wrong with 20W50 in hot weather, but in cool climates, it's just too thick. When I used mineral oil* I used 10W30 in spring and fall, 15W40 in summer, and 5W30 in winter. With synthetic now I just use 5W40 all the time, and now I put zinc in it as well (despite my general opposition to oil additives, the zinc is just putting it back the way it's supposed to be). * disclaimer: in cars, but a rotary engine is a rotary engine On Sun, Jun 28, 2009 at 7:16 PM, Al Gietzen wrote: > > > Earlier this weekend the recomendation for a startuo oil was for a minera= l > oil, 40W minimum. Is a multi viscosity like a convetional 20W50 OK? or > should it be a straight 40W or 50W? > > Thanks, > > Joe > > > > Joe; > > > > Are you pre-mixing 2-cycle oil? I think the only advantage of a straight > weight oil would be if you use the metering pump injection as a straight > weight may burn a bit cleaner. > > > > I used Castrol 20/50 for about the first 60 hours with the injection > system; then converted to pre-mix and synthetic. The Castrol 20/50 is an > excellent lubricant and served well. It may be that the seals have seated= in > more since going to premix as I seemed to have picked up over 100 rpm sta= tic > over the last 80 hours. But I think it=92s common to get a peak in power > somewhere past the 100 hr mark. > > > > Looking forward to hearing about your first runs. > > > > Al > --000e0cd1b43ec80082046d771dde Content-Type: text/html; charset=windows-1252 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Straight 40 or 50 is WAY too thick for engine oil.=A0 Your engine will have= to get almost all the way to operating temperature before it would get any= significant lubrication at all.=A0 Typical break in oils are thinner than = usual, not thicker.=A0 When the parts are still seating in on a new engine = it is harder for the oil to get in there so you need a thinner oil to make = sure everything gets lubricated.

When starting up, you always want the thinnest oil you can get, because= the most important .=A0 Even in hot weather, on startup, 10 weight is abou= t as thick as you want.=A0 The only reason we don't use 0W50 for everyt= hing is because nobody can make it.

There is nothing really wrong with 20W50 in hot weather, but in cool cl= imates, it's just too thick.=A0 When I used mineral oil* I used 10W30 i= n spring and fall, 15W40 in summer, and 5W30 in winter.=A0 With synthetic n= ow I just use 5W40 all the time, and now I put zinc in it as well (despite = my general opposition to oil additives, the zinc is just putting it back th= e way it's supposed to be).

* disclaimer: in cars, but a rotary engine is a rotary engine

On Sun, Jun 28, 2009 at 7:16 PM, Al Gietzen <ALVentures@cox.net> wrote:

=A0

Earlie= r this weekend the recomendation for a startuo oil was for a mineral oil, 40W minimum.=A0 Is a multi viscosity like a convetional 20W50 OK?=A0 or should it be a straight 40W or 50W?

Thanks= ,

Joe

=A0

Joe;

=A0

Are you pre-mixing 2-cycle oil? =A0I think the only advantage of a straight weight oil would b= e if you use the metering pump injection as a straight weight may burn a bit cleaner.

=A0

I used Castrol 20/50 =A0for about the first 60 hours with the injection system; then converted to pre-m= ix and synthetic. =A0The Castrol 20/50 is an excellent lubricant and served well. It may be that the seals have seated in more since going to premix as= I seemed to have picked up over 100 rpm static over the last 80 hours. =A0But I think it=92s common to get a peak in power somewhere past the 100 hr mark.

=A0

Looking forward to hearing about your first runs.

=A0

Al


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