Yep, after work the last couple of nights, I headed out to the hangar to continue the saga. I received my new injectors as per the Mistral test pilot for my Mistral intake, re-terminated the wires at the ECU for better wire runs (the wires were various lengths pending knowing how/where they would lay) and segregated the coil and injector wires down the left side of the Velocity.
Ok, changed too many things at once....but I had to do something while waiting for the injectors to arrive <g>. Let hit the start switch. Crank, crank, crank. hmmmmmm? Oh wait, did I not turn the emergency/service fuel valve back to "flow" DOH. Crank and a start. Uhhh, wow, quite a difference right from the get go. Lets look at the Map table since it is still set up for the old injectors fighting for dominance. I guess I should have re-set the EC2. Hmmm, pretty much all over the place but my adjustments are makng a difference.
Funny, since for so long just getting the old engine to start (funny how coolant in the combustion chamber can cause that), I almost forgot I could adjust the Map while the engine was off. So, when it dawned on me I could, I set 0-127 to a mid-point, fired it up again and the engine ran so smoothly it made me a bit nervous. Oh, wait, I am only getting about 4000 rpm at full power..........ooops, forgot I disconnected the prop wires when screwing with the wires. Hook up IVO prop wires, change from full course to full fine (45 -105 pitch range).....RPM up to about 5500 at full static power. Sigh, better...still not sure if good though at full fine pitch...but much better than pushing for 4000 rpm.
Night before last I let the engine run at idle for just a hair over and hour with a ramp temperature of between 95 and 86 degrees (dusk, so temps dropped on ramp). Oil was around 205 and Coolant was around 180. Last night, I shot it to WOT for a couple of minutes, an act which would have had me boiling over in no time before my radiator/oil cooler mods, and the temps still behaved themselves. The oil started to approach 220 before I cut it back to idle and the actually started to slowly go DOWN....who'd of thunk that could happen???? I was pleased.
I think I have made more "progress" in the last few weeks that the last several months. Ok, I did build both the engine (twice due to a failed NEW intermediate housing after one hour) and firewall aft install, but that was pretty much just to get me back to where I think I should have been already. Of course, I am still in a consistent, inconsistent state as I learn how things are "supposed" to work for this install. Such as, how many priming shots to give for a cold start verses a warm start and not flood the thing. I have discovered no priming, cold or hot, means the engine will not fire up. Education and recreation <g>.
I do have a few questions though. I must admit, several of them have been addressed in the last couple of days of post. You guys/gals are so appreciated, I can't even describe how much. I shudder at the thought of this goal with out ya.
First of all, with all the talk about injector sizing, I now have all my injectors matched in size per the recommended size of the Mistral test pilot out of FL. They seem to be working swell. However, as has been noted here, they are waaaaay larger than the conventional wisdom found here at 62.7 lbs/hr / 646cc/min. Since from what I have read, Mistral has done tons of R&D, what do ya'll feel is the purpose of these large injectors? Now, I do know that so far the EC2 does not seem to have a problem toning them down and seems much happier doing this than trying to compensate for seriously mismatched primary and secondaries. I am just curious as to what their reasoning may be. They seem to have the vested interest to chose the best solution. Perhaps their ECU handles things much differently. I donno. I would like to turbo this application down the road, thus some extra may be fine. I just am not informed enough yet to form a conclusion/guess.
Second, after I have moved the throttle to WOT, when I move it back to idle, the idle RPM is much higher than it was before. I may have a smooth idle around 1700 to 1800 rpm, but when I go WOT and then bring it back to idle, the RPM is now around 2200 or so. If I "pump" the throttle a couple of times, it tends to settle back down to the 1700 range....if I mess with the mixture, I can get smooth idle around 1400 to 1500. It seems as if I have had this happen in some of my old cars, but I can't think of why.
Finally, a very mundane issue. I have an remote oil filter. The last two standard oil filters I have installed are leaking from the seal. I checked the mounting surface and do not "see" any flaws, however, I am leaking quite a bit of expensive synthetic oil (following the first six hours on dino oil) from this location. I thought that perhaps I had tightened it by hand too much and it warped the sealing gasket. However, it still leaks following a less tight fit. I have never had a problem with this kind of filter before. Please correct me if I am missing something. You lube the gasket with oil when you install and only hand tighten it. Should not be a problem. Any thoughts? I have had this with the last two filters. The current one being a K&N...the previous an STP.
Thanks for your kind attention.
All the best,
Chris