X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from wf-out-1314.google.com ([209.85.200.171] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.2.14) with ESMTP id 3630492 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Sun, 03 May 2009 04:23:06 -0400 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=209.85.200.171; envelope-from=bartrim@gmail.com Received: by wf-out-1314.google.com with SMTP id 28so2335520wff.25 for ; Sun, 03 May 2009 01:22:29 -0700 (PDT) DKIM-Signature: v=1; a=rsa-sha256; c=relaxed/relaxed; d=gmail.com; s=gamma; h=domainkey-signature:received:received:subject:from:to:in-reply-to :references:content-type:date:message-id:mime-version:x-mailer; bh=3qL14ZAE5JKN2ut5JW5X1suUIKbzmw2cXa2ieolOFuo=; b=KZXhTQqBZtmRvYzPA5Yay7W8WZVcS7QS2hjVsv7/A0hlM1rVuoW5eg3iYB3zoB5aWp J65Wqs+M3zaFCkbOz9gXddI1tcfViQz/CG3ZRfzqhlktP9+u5c40ICAjhS8ud9gfHd/E 8gryboYF/QaH8X0yAjLPXnkj4A1iMKgJY3r3Y= DomainKey-Signature: a=rsa-sha1; c=nofws; d=gmail.com; s=gamma; h=subject:from:to:in-reply-to:references:content-type:date:message-id :mime-version:x-mailer; b=kt/Mnwpt5tH6CpZKuQX0hxi8Pm6COhlOQ27x12a4FSo5mV3sY4orvMIA+LJ8JUvzO2 YzJMjd2Yh+Y2zY44GzcIpd9ygw3Q8whFMLfsSZAZUa+htX7XHxX7CagCi6mHCyQvmGLU h1YyGbQ0IbqkCNKcT1KJCnO/O28Hf8ATQrDdU= Received: by 10.142.238.20 with SMTP id l20mr1621121wfh.217.1241338949133; Sun, 03 May 2009 01:22:29 -0700 (PDT) Return-Path: Received: from ?192.168.1.64? (d154-5-222-193.bchsia.telus.net [154.5.222.193]) by mx.google.com with ESMTPS id 27sm14910101wfa.22.2009.05.03.01.22.27 (version=SSLv3 cipher=RC4-MD5); Sun, 03 May 2009 01:22:28 -0700 (PDT) Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Harley Davidson Generator From: Todd Bartrim To: Rotary motors in aircraft In-Reply-To: References: Content-Type: multipart/related; type="multipart/alternative"; boundary="=-flfRC2JF320O/s0Bevtr" Date: Sun, 03 May 2009 01:20:53 -0700 Message-Id: <1241338853.20787.5.camel@Endurance> Mime-Version: 1.0 X-Mailer: Evolution 2.26.1 --=-flfRC2JF320O/s0Bevtr Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="=-hE2d1BmoPId7pab4ihd4" --=-hE2d1BmoPId7pab4ihd4 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit This is actually the first time I've ever had anything to do with Harley's. Never was interested and figured pigs would fly before I was. If this works then a part of a hog will fly.:-! I'll keep it in mind when I start to shop for a reg. Todd C-FSTB On Sun, 2009-05-03 at 16:55 +1000, George Lendich wrote: >  > > Todd, > For some reason I have had bad luck with Harley regulators and have > had better luck with Custom Chrome regulators - just a comment to > consider. > George (down under) > > Hi Ernest, Kelly and others; > I promised myself I wasn't going to do any experimenting > this time around, but here I go again..... > Today I went down to the local Harley shop and lost $381cad. > And I just have the rotor and stator to show for it. I still > need to buy the regulator, but I figure I shouldn't throw that > money away until I can definitively make this work. Kelly, you > probably did the right thing by ordering from Compu-Fire, but > there is something to be said for holding the parts in your > hand and fitting & measuring it first. The store owner is also > a pilot and was quite helpful when I told him what it was for. > These are genuine Harley parts, so surely I paid for that > privilege as well. > Stator 32amp #29970-88DHD > Rotor #29957-81BHD > Unfortunately, while I think I can make this work, it ain't > gonna be easy. It's going to require a few mods to the RD-1 > mounting plate and to the flex plate dampener. The rotor will > also require some alterations. This rotor is 1.52" thick and > the space currently available between the dampener and the > mount plate is 1 3/16". And the edge of the rotor also lines > up with the ring of bolt heads holding the RD-1 together. To > accommodate this I plan to countersink these bolt heads so > they are flush with the mount plate. There also needs to be a > path for the stator wire to pass under the edge of the rotor. > I plan to machine a slot 3/16" deep x 1/4" wide x 1.5" long > into the backside of the mount plate. There will have to be > several mount bolts to fasten the stator in place which will > pass through the mount plate into the oil filled internals of > the RD-1. I plan to drill these holes and then machine an > o-ring groove under the bolt heads. I believe these will be > located in an area where they will not interfere with the sun > gear so they will not need to be countersunk. That should be > all that's required of the mount plate, but that still only > leaves 1 3/16" to fit in a 1.52" thick rotor. > The rotor will require the splined center to be enlarged > to fit over the dampener. I'll have this done on a lathe and > while it's on there, I'll have a little taken off both the > face and the back edge. I'll gain very little here, but I'll > also ensure that they are true. > Now the dampener is where I think I can make the required > gains. The steel center hub is riveted to the front side of > the aluminium dampener plate. I think I can relocate this hub > to the back side of the dampener plate. This should give me an > extra 3/8" to work with. The backside of the center hub on > this dampener plate will likely have to have 1/8" taken off > the center to allow for the flywheel nut, but there is lots of > material here. This part is a little hard to describe so I'll > take pics as I go. And surely there'll be something I'm > overlooking. But I'm betting $381 that I can do it. > This will require the services of a machinist and as luck > would have it, the latest guy I signed onto play on my hockey > team happens to be a machinist out at the mill I work at. So > I'll get him working on some of this next week. > > Todd > C-FSTB > > > > On Sat, 2009-05-02 at 23:53 +0000, Kelly Troyer wrote: > > > > > Ernest and Todd, > > Ernest what is output amps of the system that you > > bought ??.............I just sprung for the > > "Compu-Fire" 40 amp system................Link > > attached...............Sure hope it works as it is > > fairly pricey................I have plenty of room for it > > since I am using a auto trans bell housing > > between engine and RD1C redrive............. > > http://www.compufire.com/harley-main.html > > -- > > Kelly Troyer > > "Dyke Delta"_13B ROTARY Engine > > "RWS"_RD1C/EC2/EM2 > > "Mistral"_Backplate/Oil Manifold > > > > > > -------------- Original message from Ernest > > Christley : -------------- > > > > > > > Todd Bartrim wrote: > > > > Thanks for the quick reply Ernest. I didn't > > expect you up so late on > > > > your side of the continent. > > > I've been trying to get a business going. Selling > > software for the > > > sport of wrestling. It seems like I don't ever > > sleep anymore. > > > > > > > Is yours a genuine Harley part? > > > No. It's an aftermarket part. > > > > How about dimensions? > > > > -OD of the rotor > > > Just over 6". You'll want at least 6.25" for > > clearance. From memory, > > > ID is just over 1.5" I believe. It's a fairly > > tight fit on the sun gear > > > shaft. I believe the shear bolts are a 4" > > spacing. > > > > > > > -ID of the stator > > > It's all put together, so that number is rather > > difficult to come by > > > right now. I believe it is right at 3". I'm > > thinking the bolt circle > > > was 3.375" diameter, but I'm going to have to > > reserve the right to be wrong. > > > > -Thickness > > > 1.75" > > > > > > > > > I fabricated a fiberglass shield that sits between > > the stator and PSRU. > > > The object being to keep trash out of the rotor. --=-hE2d1BmoPId7pab4ihd4 Content-Type: text/html; charset="utf-8" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable This is actually the first time I've ever had anything to do with Harley's.= Never was interested and figured pigs would fly before I was. If this work= s then a part of a hog will fly.3D":-!"
I'll keep it in mind when I start to shop for a reg.

Todd
C-FSTB

On Sun, 2009-05-03 at 16:55 +1000, George Lendich wrote:
=20
Todd,
For some reason I have had bad luck with Harley regula= tors and have had better luck with Custom Chrome regulators - just a commen= t to consider.
George (down under)
Hi Ernest, Kelly and others;
    I promised myself I wasn't going to do any exper= imenting this time around, but here I go again.....
Today I went down to the local Harley shop and lost $381cad. And I = just have the rotor and stator to show for it. I still need to buy the regu= lator, but I figure I shouldn't throw that money away until I can definitiv= ely make this work. Kelly, you probably did the right thing by ordering fro= m Compu-Fire, but there is something to be said for holding the parts in yo= ur hand and fitting & measuring it first. The store owner is also a pil= ot and was quite helpful when I told him what it was for. These are genuine= Harley parts, so surely I paid for that privilege as well.
    Stator 32amp #29970-88DHD
    Rotor #29957-81BHD
Unfortunately, while I think I can make this work, it ain't gonna b= e easy. It's going to require a few mods to the RD-1 mounting plate and to = the flex plate dampener. The rotor will also require some alterations. This= rotor is 1.52" thick and the space currently available between the da= mpener and the mount plate is 1 3/16". And the edge of the rotor also = lines up with the ring of bolt heads holding the RD-1 together. To accommod= ate this I plan to countersink these bolt heads so they are flush with the = mount plate. There also needs to be a path for the stator wire to pass unde= r the edge of the rotor. I plan to machine a slot 3/16" deep x 1/4&quo= t; wide x 1.5" long into the backside of the mount plate. There will h= ave to be several mount bolts to fasten the stator in place which will pass= through the mount plate into the oil filled internals of the RD-1. I plan = to drill these holes and then machine an o-ring groove under the bolt heads= . I believe these will be located in an area where they will not interfere = with the sun gear so they will not need to be countersunk. That should be a= ll that's required of the mount plate, but that still only leaves 1 3/16&qu= ot; to fit in a 1.52" thick rotor.
    The rotor will require the splined center to be = enlarged to fit over the dampener. I'll have this done on a lathe and while= it's on there, I'll have a little taken off both the face and the back edg= e. I'll gain very little here, but I'll also ensure that they are true.
    Now the dampener is where I think I can make the= required gains. The steel center hub is riveted to the front side of the a= luminium dampener plate. I think I can relocate this hub to the back side o= f the dampener plate. This should give me an extra 3/8" to work with. = The backside of the center hub on this dampener plate will likely have to h= ave 1/8" taken off the center to allow for the flywheel nut, but there= is lots of material here. This part is a little hard to describe so I'll t= ake pics as I go. And surely there'll be something I'm overlooking. But I'm= betting $381 that I can do it.
    This will require the services of a machinist an= d as luck would have it, the latest guy I signed onto play on my hockey tea= m happens to be a machinist out at the mill I work at. So I'll get him work= ing on some of this next week.

Todd
C-FSTB

On Sat, 2009-05-02 at 23:53 +0000, Kelly Troyer wrote:

Ernest and Todd,
       Ernest what is output amps= of the system that you bought ??.............I just sprung for the
"Compu-Fire" 40 amp system................Link attach= ed...............Sure hope it works as it is
fairly pricey................I have plenty of room for it since= I am using a auto trans bell housing
between engine and RD1C redrive.............
http://ww= w.compufire.com/harley-main.html
--
Kelly Troyer
"Dyke Delta"_13B ROTARY Engine
"RWS"_RD1C/EC2/EM2
"Mistral"_Backplate/Oil Manifold

-------------- Original message from Ernest Christley <e= christley@nc.rr.com>: --------------


> Todd Bartrim wrote:
> > Thanks for the quick reply Ernest. I didn't expec= t you up so late on
> > your side of the continent.
> I've been trying to get a business going. Selling soft= ware for the
> sport of wrestling. It seems like I don't ever sleep a= nymore.
>
> > Is yours a genuine Harley part?
> No. It's an aftermarket part.
> > How about dimensions?
> > -OD of the rotor
> Just over 6". You'll want at least 6.25" for= clearance. From memory,
> ID is just over 1.5" I believe. It's a fairly tig= ht fit on the sun gear
> shaft. I believe the shear bolts are a 4" spacing= .
>
> > -ID of the stator
> It's all put together, so that number is rather diffic= ult to come by
> right now. I believe it is right at 3". I'm think= ing the bolt circle
> was 3.375" diameter, but I'm going to have to res= erve the right to be wrong.
> > -Thickness
> 1.75"
>
>
> I fabricated a fiberglass shield that sits between the= stator and PSRU.
> The object being to keep trash out of the rotor.=20
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