X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from poplet2.per.eftel.com ([203.24.100.45] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.2.14) with ESMTP id 3630483 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Sun, 03 May 2009 02:56:38 -0400 Received-SPF: none receiver=logan.com; client-ip=203.24.100.45; envelope-from=lendich@aanet.com.au Received: from mail.aanet.com.au (mail.aanet.com.au [203.24.100.34]) by poplet2.per.eftel.com (Postfix) with ESMTP id 871201737C4 for ; Sun, 3 May 2009 14:55:58 +0800 (WST) Received: from ownerf1fc517b8 (203.171.92.134.static.rev.aanet.com.au [203.171.92.134]) by mail.aanet.com.au (Postfix) with SMTP id DFE33149C555 for ; Sun, 3 May 2009 14:55:45 +0800 (WST) Message-ID: From: "George Lendich" To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" References: Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Harley Davidson Generator Date: Sun, 3 May 2009 16:55:47 +1000 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_NextPart_000_0015_01C9CC10.01DEA000" X-Priority: 3 X-MSMail-Priority: Normal X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2900.5512 X-MimeOLE: Produced By Microsoft MimeOLE V6.00.2900.5579 X-Antivirus: avast! (VPS 0617-3, 04/28/2006), Outbound message X-Antivirus-Status: Clean This is a multi-part message in MIME format. ------=_NextPart_000_0015_01C9CC10.01DEA000 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Todd, For some reason I have had bad luck with Harley regulators and have had = better luck with Custom Chrome regulators - just a comment to consider. George (down under) Hi Ernest, Kelly and others; I promised myself I wasn't going to do any experimenting this time = around, but here I go again..... Today I went down to the local Harley shop and lost $381cad. And I = just have the rotor and stator to show for it. I still need to buy the = regulator, but I figure I shouldn't throw that money away until I can = definitively make this work. Kelly, you probably did the right thing by = ordering from Compu-Fire, but there is something to be said for holding = the parts in your hand and fitting & measuring it first. The store owner = is also a pilot and was quite helpful when I told him what it was for. = These are genuine Harley parts, so surely I paid for that privilege as = well. Stator 32amp #29970-88DHD Rotor #29957-81BHD Unfortunately, while I think I can make this work, it ain't gonna be = easy. It's going to require a few mods to the RD-1 mounting plate and to = the flex plate dampener. The rotor will also require some alterations. = This rotor is 1.52" thick and the space currently available between the = dampener and the mount plate is 1 3/16". And the edge of the rotor also = lines up with the ring of bolt heads holding the RD-1 together. To = accommodate this I plan to countersink these bolt heads so they are = flush with the mount plate. There also needs to be a path for the stator = wire to pass under the edge of the rotor. I plan to machine a slot 3/16" = deep x 1/4" wide x 1.5" long into the backside of the mount plate. There = will have to be several mount bolts to fasten the stator in place which = will pass through the mount plate into the oil filled internals of the = RD-1. I plan to drill these holes and then machine an o-ring groove = under the bolt heads. I believe these will be located in an area where = they will not interfere with the sun gear so they will not need to be = countersunk. That should be all that's required of the mount plate, but = that still only leaves 1 3/16" to fit in a 1.52" thick rotor. The rotor will require the splined center to be enlarged to fit = over the dampener. I'll have this done on a lathe and while it's on = there, I'll have a little taken off both the face and the back edge. = I'll gain very little here, but I'll also ensure that they are true. Now the dampener is where I think I can make the required gains. = The steel center hub is riveted to the front side of the aluminium = dampener plate. I think I can relocate this hub to the back side of the = dampener plate. This should give me an extra 3/8" to work with. The = backside of the center hub on this dampener plate will likely have to = have 1/8" taken off the center to allow for the flywheel nut, but there = is lots of material here. This part is a little hard to describe so I'll = take pics as I go. And surely there'll be something I'm overlooking. But = I'm betting $381 that I can do it. This will require the services of a machinist and as luck would = have it, the latest guy I signed onto play on my hockey team happens to = be a machinist out at the mill I work at. So I'll get him working on = some of this next week. Todd C-FSTB =20 On Sat, 2009-05-02 at 23:53 +0000, Kelly Troyer wrote:=20 =20 Ernest and Todd,=20 Ernest what is output amps of the system that you bought = ??.............I just sprung for the=20 "Compu-Fire" 40 amp system................Link = attached...............Sure hope it works as it is=20 fairly pricey................I have plenty of room for it since I am = using a auto trans bell housing=20 between engine and RD1C redrive.............=20 =20 http://www.compufire.com/harley-main.html=20 -- Kelly Troyer=20 "Dyke Delta"_13B ROTARY Engine=20 "RWS"_RD1C/EC2/EM2=20 "Mistral"_Backplate/Oil Manifold=20 -------------- Original message from Ernest Christley = : --------------=20 > Todd Bartrim wrote:=20 > > Thanks for the quick reply Ernest. I didn't expect you up so = late on=20 > > your side of the continent.=20 > I've been trying to get a business going. Selling software for = the=20 > sport of wrestling. It seems like I don't ever sleep anymore.=20 >=20 > > Is yours a genuine Harley part?=20 > No. It's an aftermarket part.=20 > > How about dimensions?=20 > > -OD of the rotor=20 > Just over 6". You'll want at least 6.25" for clearance. From = memory,=20 > ID is just over 1.5" I believe. It's a fairly tight fit on the = sun gear=20 > shaft. I believe the shear bolts are a 4" spacing.=20 >=20 > > -ID of the stator=20 > It's all put together, so that number is rather difficult to = come by=20 > right now. I believe it is right at 3". I'm thinking the bolt = circle=20 > was 3.375" diameter, but I'm going to have to reserve the right = to be wrong.=20 > > -Thickness=20 > 1.75"=20 >=20 >=20 > I fabricated a fiberglass shield that sits between the stator = and PSRU.=20 > The object being to keep trash out of the rotor. ------=_NextPart_000_0015_01C9CC10.01DEA000 Content-Type: text/html; charset="UTF-8" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable =EF=BB=BF
Todd,
For some reason I have had bad luck = with Harley=20 regulators and have had better luck with Custom Chrome regulators - just = a=20 comment to consider.
George (down under)
Hi=20 Ernest, Kelly and others;
    I promised myself I = wasn't=20 going to do any experimenting this time around, but here I go=20 again.....
Today I went down to the local Harley shop and lost = $381cad. And=20 I just have the rotor and stator to show for it. I still need to buy = the=20 regulator, but I figure I shouldn't throw that money away until I can=20 definitively make this work. Kelly, you probably did the right thing = by=20 ordering from Compu-Fire, but there is something to be said for = holding the=20 parts in your hand and fitting & measuring it first. The store = owner is=20 also a pilot and was quite helpful when I told him what it was for. = These are=20 genuine Harley parts, so surely I paid for that privilege as=20 well.
    Stator 32amp = #29970-88DHD
   =20 Rotor #29957-81BHD
Unfortunately, while I think I can make this = work, it=20 ain't gonna be easy. It's going to require a few mods to the RD-1 = mounting=20 plate and to the flex plate dampener. The rotor will also require some = alterations. This rotor is 1.52" thick and the space currently = available=20 between the dampener and the mount plate is 1 3/16". And the edge of = the rotor=20 also lines up with the ring of bolt heads holding the RD-1 together. = To=20 accommodate this I plan to countersink these bolt heads so they are = flush with=20 the mount plate. There also needs to be a path for the stator wire to = pass=20 under the edge of the rotor. I plan to machine a slot 3/16" deep x = 1/4" wide x=20 1.5" long into the backside of the mount plate. There will have to be = several=20 mount bolts to fasten the stator in place which will pass through the = mount=20 plate into the oil filled internals of the RD-1. I plan to drill these = holes=20 and then machine an o-ring groove under the bolt heads. I believe = these will=20 be located in an area where they will not interfere with the sun gear = so they=20 will not need to be countersunk. That should be all that's required of = the=20 mount plate, but that still only leaves 1 3/16" to fit in a 1.52" = thick=20 rotor.
    The rotor will require the splined center = to be=20 enlarged to fit over the dampener. I'll have this done on a lathe and = while=20 it's on there, I'll have a little taken off both the face and the back = edge.=20 I'll gain very little here, but I'll also ensure that they are=20 true.
    Now the dampener is where I think I can = make the=20 required gains. The steel center hub is riveted to the front side of = the=20 aluminium dampener plate. I think I can relocate this hub to the back = side of=20 the dampener plate. This should give me an extra 3/8" to work with. = The=20 backside of the center hub on this dampener plate will likely have to = have=20 1/8" taken off the center to allow for the flywheel nut, but there is = lots of=20 material here. This part is a little hard to describe so I'll take = pics as I=20 go. And surely there'll be something I'm overlooking. But I'm betting = $381=20 that I can do it.
    This will require the services = of a=20 machinist and as luck would have it, the latest guy I signed onto play = on my=20 hockey team happens to be a machinist out at the mill I work at. So = I'll get=20 him working on some of this next week.

Todd
C-FSTB


On Sat, 2009-05-02 at 23:53 = +0000, Kelly=20 Troyer wrote:=20

Ernest and Todd,
       Ernest = what is=20 output amps of the system that you bought ??.............I just = sprung for=20 the
"Compu-Fire" 40 amp = system................Link=20 attached...............Sure hope it works as it is
fairly pricey................I have plenty = of room=20 for it since I am using a auto trans bell housing
between engine and RD1C redrive............. =
http://www.compufire.c= om/harley-main.html=20
--
Kelly Troyer
"Dyke Delta"_13B = ROTARY=20 Engine
"RWS"_RD1C/EC2/EM2
"Mistral"_Backplate/Oil Manifold=20

-------------- Original message from Ernest Christley=20 <echristley@nc.rr.com>: --------------


> Todd = Bartrim=20 wrote:
> > Thanks for the quick reply Ernest. I didn't = expect=20 you up so late on
> > your side of the continent. =
> I've=20 been trying to get a business going. Selling software for the =
>=20 sport of wrestling. It seems like I don't ever sleep anymore. =
>=20
> > Is yours a genuine Harley part?
> No. It's an = aftermarket part.
> > How about dimensions?
> = > -OD of=20 the rotor
> Just over 6". You'll want at least 6.25" for = clearance.=20 From memory,
> ID is just over 1.5" I believe. It's a = fairly tight=20 fit on the sun gear
> shaft. I believe the shear bolts are = a 4"=20 spacing.
>
> > -ID of the stator
> It's = all put=20 together, so that number is rather difficult to come by
> = right=20 now. I believe it is right at 3". I'm thinking the bolt circle =
>=20 was 3.375" diameter, but I'm going to have to reserve the right to = be=20 wrong.
> > -Thickness
> 1.75"
>
> =
>=20 I fabricated a fiberglass shield that sits between the stator and = PSRU.=20
> The object being to keep trash out of the rotor.=20
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