X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com ([75.180.132.122] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.2.12) with ESMTP id 3485733 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Tue, 10 Feb 2009 09:21:45 -0500 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=75.180.132.122; envelope-from=echristley@nc.rr.com Received: from [192.168.0.19] (really [66.57.38.121]) by cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com with ESMTP id <20090210142107.LMVF21987.cdptpa-omta05.mail.rr.com@[192.168.0.19]> for ; Tue, 10 Feb 2009 14:21:07 +0000 Message-ID: <49918D94.4090301@nc.rr.com> Date: Tue, 10 Feb 2009 09:22:12 -0500 From: Ernest Christley User-Agent: Thunderbird 2.0.0.19 (X11/20090105) MIME-Version: 1.0 To: Rotary motors in aircraft Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: hauling gas References: In-Reply-To: Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1; format=flowed Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Al Gietzen wrote: > > My simple approach is to use a metal chain, which serves as cap retainer, > which hangs from the metal cap flange into the fuel, back to the cap. > Contacting the end of the hose to cap/cap flange prior to removal takes car > of any residual. Maintaining contact between the hose and the flange > (keeping the cap chain, or cable, hanging into the fuel) keeps fuel and hose > at the same potential. > > Al, you're giving me the heebee-jeebees here. The problem is that the can and fuel in the tank may already have a differential charge built up. Then you may be getting an invisibly small spark connecting the can to the chain in the tank. The spark would have to be at just the right place to get a fuel-air mixture to ignite, so chances of bad things happening are extremely low. But such an easily remediated exposure. Get an ESD wrist strap from RadioShack or other electronic supplier. For those who don't know, these are bungee straps woven with a conductive (carbon?) fiber. They have a clip which connects to a coiled wire lead, terminated by an alligator clip. The wire has a large value resistor in it. You attach the alligator clip to what you want to be grounded to, and then the static potential energy drains through the wire. The difference from just letting a chain contact is that the charge drains at a controlled rate. It is slow enough to eliminate the spark. Get a metal can and cinch one of these straps around the neck onto exposed metal. Now you have your grounding wire that will extend and collapse like a telephone cord, and eliminates one more avenue of disaster. -- http://www.ernest.isa-geek.org