Mailing List flyrotary@lancaironline.net Message #45129
From: Bill Schertz <wschertz@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] New failure mode
Date: Mon, 9 Feb 2009 06:34:13 -0600
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Thanks Lynn, sounds like a good safety.
Bill Schertz
KIS Cruiser #4045
N343BS
----- Original Message -----
Sent: Sunday, February 08, 2009 10:07 PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] New failure mode

Sent: Sunday, February 08, 2009 5:30 PM
Subject: [FlyRotary] NEW failure mode for 13B

Well, I haven't heard of this happening before -- I was ground running my engine to  tune it with the EM-2 and EC-2.  Ran for almost an hour, at various rpm's to change the manifold pressure and tweak the settings. Cooling working well, I had the top cowling off to allow good exit area since I was tied down. Coolant pressure about 14 psi as reported on the EM-2.
 
Engine was running good, took it up to ~6000 rpm swinging a 76x76 Catto prop, when suddenly there was steam and fluid on my windshield. Shut it down by killing power to the EC-2. Coolant everywhere.
 
Got out and looked to diagnose the problem -- NOT my plumbing.  A FREEZE PLUG in the iron housing had blown out. Rapid coolant dump.
 
Secondary effect -- Since I shut down suddenly from full tilt, either the proximity of the cowl to the exhaust, or possibly some of the coolant on the exhaust started a small fire on my cowl. Put it out with extinguisher, but corner is charred.
 
 
Bill Schertz
KIS Cruiser #4045
N343BS
Now in repair mode.
 
It is not a common thing to have happen in any engines. In Cosworth blocks I did this mod just because the blocks cost as much as my house. I have seen one fall out of a rotary, because pure water was left in over a winter. It was a plug in the front iron and allowed water into the pan. The bearings were lost and I got a rebuild job out of that one.
 
When replacing the plug with a new one, wire brush the anodize off of the sealing sides of the new plug.
 
With a die grinder just break the outside  corners of the hole. Apply a thin coat of Non Hardening Permatex
gasket cement to the hole walls and outside of the plug.
 
Cover the plug with a piece of aluminum. Drive the plug in with a heavy, slow moving hammer, to just flush.
 
You might think about adding two or three 8-32 or 10-32 threaded screw holes around the edge of the hole and install a small washer that covers part of the plug as shown. Use socket head screws and wire as shown. When you overhaul an engine replace all of the plugs with new.
 
Lynn E. Hanover
 


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