X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from mail-qy0-f17.google.com ([209.85.221.17] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.2.12) with ESMTP id 3477775 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Thu, 05 Feb 2009 08:42:21 -0500 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=209.85.221.17; envelope-from=msteitle@gmail.com Received: by qyk10 with SMTP id 10so402284qyk.19 for ; Thu, 05 Feb 2009 05:41:45 -0800 (PST) DKIM-Signature: v=1; a=rsa-sha256; c=relaxed/relaxed; d=gmail.com; s=gamma; h=domainkey-signature:mime-version:received:in-reply-to:references :date:message-id:subject:from:to:content-type; bh=7kTRitQGWvYDHbAHVhM5hIxkkvea7KA23BZeo8c5KNA=; b=oSPj9RdJxiVUJ7VR1oFIJArRoXauCugJiFBzLH6SNq7lGK8tAnqXWy0Mdo6Ch6irph xR5PiRijSV7xu+vkRjVthi3kdr4lKT9MS+BX96EyKx0Nce33nWiJvFVvJ6okp/YcMT57 GK04r4Fr4Ghvytfnl3hsrXPq0zyVNsu+NbTBs= DomainKey-Signature: a=rsa-sha1; c=nofws; d=gmail.com; s=gamma; h=mime-version:in-reply-to:references:date:message-id:subject:from:to :content-type; b=saC/vLdCx7tgbMQhrRsgh0G8ZIWwlI93uunG+JRnXGBU3vR40O5raQ07VdzxFeteBt oksd6fbburXdRXp/raCdqqsmV3x6PAr72iOauPCcjYRXt7WaWqn9jmf3GnPnaHfR5E9s k/0z46M0PDhuPCW+Q84CMFPbBUxQXrwPJOZUs= MIME-Version: 1.0 Received: by 10.215.67.14 with SMTP id u14mr657307qak.381.1233841305595; Thu, 05 Feb 2009 05:41:45 -0800 (PST) In-Reply-To: References: Date: Thu, 5 Feb 2009 07:41:45 -0600 Message-ID: <5cf132c0902050541x6250ce57ue84b74faf9494aef@mail.gmail.com> Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Tube Thickness [FlyRotary] Re: 20B manifold From: Mark Steitle To: Rotary motors in aircraft Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary=0015175cd5f8baadc404622c1062 --0015175cd5f8baadc404622c1062 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Ed, Mine turned black. Hmmmmm Mark On Thu, Feb 5, 2009 at 6:58 AM, Ed Anderson wrot= e: > For what it's worth, George, I had my exhaust manifold made out of the > stainless steel pipe used for stair railing that Mark mentioned. The wal= ls > are approx 0.10 -0.12" thick. Mine has lasted over 500 hours and 10 year= s. > It appears to be 304 SS, but I can not swear to that. There is some mino= r > scaling and it does eventually turn a rust color =96 at least mine did. = I've > been very please with it. It's wall thickness also makes it easier to we= ld > in bungs for O2 and temperature sensors than thinner wall tubing. Also i= t > was much cheaper than buying SS exhaust tubing and you could get just abo= ut > any degree bend you wanted from stock rather than paying cost for special > bending. > > > > Ed > > > > Ed Anderson > > Rv-6A N494BW Rotary Powered > > Matthews, NC > > eanderson@carolina.rr.com > > http://www.andersonee.com > > http://www.dmack.net/mazda/index.html > > http://www.flyrotary.com/ > > http://members.cox.net/rogersda/rotary/configs.htm#N494BW > > > ------------------------------ > > *From:* Rotary motors in aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net] *O= n > Behalf Of *George Lendich > *Sent:* Wednesday, February 04, 2009 5:15 PM > *To:* Rotary motors in aircraft > *Subject:* [FlyRotary] Re: 20B manifold > > > > Thanks Mark, > > I thickness of the tube is what I was after. > > George ( down under) > > ----- Original Message ----- > > *From:* Mark Steitle > > *To:* Rotary motors in aircraft > > *Sent:* Thursday, February 05, 2009 7:59 AM > > *Subject:* [FlyRotary] Re: 20B manifold > > > > George, > > > > If you're asking how thick my 20B exhaust flanges were, they were 1/2" > (12mm). I made them this thick so they would provide support for the > exhaust system. Tubes were a press fit and were welded from the back > side. That part of the design has worked great... although probably heav= ier > than necessary. > > > > Regarding the Renesis manifold, there is a bunch of cast material that > could be removed to lighten it up. But I agree that it would be best to > build a lightweight exhaust system from scratch. > > > > Mark S. > > On Wed, Feb 4, 2009 at 3:36 PM, George Lendich > wrote: > > Mark, > > How thick was that again, 1.6mm ? > > George ( down under) > > > > Robert, > > Bite the bullet and make one from scratch, Just make the thick flanges fr= om > SS ( 304 or 316) and use the hand rail pipe as suggested - cheapest and b= est > for the 3 rotor. > > Sounds a lot lighter than the cast manifold. > > George ( down under) > > ----- Original Message ----- > > *From:* Mark Steitle > > *To:* Rotary motors in aircraft > > *Sent:* Thursday, February 05, 2009 12:10 AM > > *Subject:* [FlyRotary] Re: 20B manifold > > > > Robert, > > > > I have one that came with my 20B. I don't want to sound negative, but I > don't think it is realistic to use on an a/c. First, it is incredibly he= avy > because it is designed to incorporate the twin turbos. And it is made of > cast iron, so it would probably melt at prolonged WOT operation. And the > passages are very restrictive to exhaust flow. I could weigh mine and se= nd > some pictures if you wish. Sorry, but I don't want to get rid of it beca= use > I have plans for a 3-rotor auto installation where it would be useable. > Maybe you could modify a Renesis manifold to fit. It would require some > welding, but it is probably more likely to work than the original 20B > manifold. > > > > The cheapest manifold would be to use 304SS handrail material. I built m= y > first manifold using that material and after 100 hours it looks like it > would last for a very long time. Ed Anderson has been using this materia= l > on his a/c for a long time. My exhause flange material was 1/2" mild car= bon > steel and it was holding up fine as it doen'st see the high heat that the > pipes do. The problem was with the mufflers. They take a real beating. > Try to space the muffler as far away from the engine as possible. > > > > Mark S. > > > > > > > > On Wed, Feb 4, 2009 at 7:43 AM, Rob wrote: > > Al and Greg, > > Thanks for your replys on this subject. I realize the manifold would be t= oo > heavy but I was hoping I could widdle it down some how. Greg, I would be > interested in your suggestion for doing that. I'm putting this 20B in a > BD-4. > > Robert > > > > Robert Bollinger > MR722 MUM > Fairfield IA 52557 > (641)472-7000 ex2068 > (641)919-3213 cell > rob@mum.edu > > ----- Original Message ----- > > *From:* Greg Ward > > *To:* Rotary motors in aircraft > > *Sent:* Tuesday, February 03, 2009 11:10 PM > > *Subject:* [FlyRotary] Re: 20B manifold > > > > *Al, you don't want the stock exhaust. Get one built. If you want to > know one way it's done, let me know.* > > *Greg Ward* > > *Lancair 20B in progress* > > ----- Original Message ----- > > *From:* Al Gietzen > > *To:* Rotary motors in aircraft > > *Sent:* Tuesday, February 03, 2009 8:25 PM > > *Subject:* [FlyRotary] Re: 20B manifold > > > > > > Does anyone on this list have a 20B exhaust manifold that came with their > engine that I could buy? > > > > No; but I do know the thing is massively heavy. I looked at one when I g= ot > my engine, and decided quickly it was not very interesting for an aircraf= t. > Maybe if radically modified . . . Just my opinion. > > > > Al G > > > > > > --0015175cd5f8baadc404622c1062 Content-Type: text/html; charset=windows-1252 Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
Ed,
 
Mine turned black.  Hmmmmm
 
Mark

On Thu, Feb 5, 2009 at 6:58 AM, Ed Anderson <eanderson@ca= rolina.rr.com> wrote:

For what it's worth, George,  = I had my exhaust manifold made out of the stainless steel pipe used for sta= ir railing that Mark mentioned.  The walls are approx 0.10 -0.12" thic= k.  Mine has lasted over 500 hours and 10 years.  It appears to b= e 304 SS, but I can not swear to that.  There is some minor scaling &n= bsp;and it does eventually turn a rust color =96 at least mine did.  I= 've been very please with it.  It's wall thickness also makes it easie= r to weld in bungs for O2 and temperature sensors than thinner wall tubing.=   Also it was much cheaper than buying SS exhaust tubing and you could= get just about any degree bend you wanted from stock rather than paying co= st for special bending.

 

Ed

 

From: Rota= ry motors in aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net] On Behalf Of George Lendich
Sent: Wednesday, February 0= 4, 2009 5:15 PM
To: Rota= ry motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: 20B manifold

Thanks Mark,

I thickness of the tube is what I was after.

<= /div>

George ( down under)

----- Original Message -----

From: Mark Steitle

Sent: Thursday= , February 05, 2009 7:59 AM

Subject: [FlyR= otary] Re: 20B manifold

= Mark S.

lendich@optusnet.com.au> wrot= e:

Mark,

How thick was that again, 1.6mm ?

George ( down under)

Robert,

Bite the bullet and make one from scratch, Just make the thick = flanges from SS ( 304 or 316) and use the hand rail pipe as suggested - che= apest and best for the 3 rotor.

Sounds a lot lighter than the cast manifold.

<= /div>

George ( down under)

----- Original Message -----

From: Mark Steitle

Sent: Thursday= , February 05, 2009 12:10 AM

Subject: [FlyR= otary] Re: 20B manifold

rob@mum.edu> wrote:

Al and Greg,

Thanks for your replys on this subject. I realize the manifold = would be too heavy but I was hoping I could widdle it down some how. Greg, = I would be interested in your suggestion for doing that. I'm putting th= is 20B in a BD-4.

Robert

rob@mum.edu

----- Original Message -----

From: Greg Ward

Sent: Tuesday,= February 03, 2009 11:10 PM

Subject: [FlyR= otary] Re: 20B manifold

Al, you don't want the stock exhaust.  Get one built.=   If you want to know one way it's done, let me know.

Greg Ward

Lancair 20B in progress

----- Original Message -----

From: Al Gietzen

Sent: Tuesday,= February 03, 2009 8:25 PM

Subject: [FlyR= otary] Re: 20B manifold

<= span style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt"> 

Does anyone on this list have a 20= B exhaust manifold that came with their engine that I could buy?

<= span style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt"> 

No; but I do know the thing is = massively heavy.  I looked at one when I got my engine, and decided qu= ickly it was not very interesting for an aircraft.  Maybe if radically= modified . . . Just my opinion.

Al G