X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from yw-out-2324.google.com ([74.125.46.31] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.2.1) with ESMTP id 2833920 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Sat, 05 Apr 2008 20:10:33 -0400 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=74.125.46.31; envelope-from=wdleonard@gmail.com Received: by yw-out-2324.google.com with SMTP id 2so134545ywt.7 for ; Sat, 05 Apr 2008 17:09:54 -0700 (PDT) DKIM-Signature: v=1; a=rsa-sha256; c=relaxed/relaxed; d=gmail.com; s=gamma; h=domainkey-signature:received:received:message-id:date:from:to:subject:in-reply-to:mime-version:content-type:references; bh=Ek8UVWSytbOhu9hEpu15jxlN/B3gp2xlUGkgIbJGmmA=; b=YPzzYvvdzhXYs7RQcPLiHTA7MQZ/lGu/veNsZ0a6EwzWzcJZHDanHTNuQ6GvTsPbXvH9Ygsak4tWCvje+4VsmjcCtXER53OYiLG1oaipMXTQ9k1zWKbNmpbO64MHrbEnYig+FEpcqEsjwLFbx6HyPgkN4wnfxm8UQqS+2eMZzd4= DomainKey-Signature: a=rsa-sha1; c=nofws; d=gmail.com; s=gamma; h=message-id:date:from:to:subject:in-reply-to:mime-version:content-type:references; b=lqu+mx5GBbgy2xsES/nJ7nki105cRZTGVhMJhSSP9ME4pJSNUpybOgEhhNKxYkZAwY9GifnkCNjr4GTgAo1cJHyNP1ustB7lmlSEMm6bPGCrjJnx69GTCfcBOno8D0v2vvLMre2yjEdzO6cyua5hLU/uGtSrsuvSzKnMelx2+qI= Received: by 10.150.57.5 with SMTP id f5mr1638734yba.140.1207440594515; Sat, 05 Apr 2008 17:09:54 -0700 (PDT) Received: by 10.150.185.7 with HTTP; Sat, 5 Apr 2008 17:09:54 -0700 (PDT) Message-ID: <1c23473f0804051709x489ccfb3s38afe2707b2bece1@mail.gmail.com> Date: Sat, 5 Apr 2008 17:09:54 -0700 From: "David Leonard" To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Hylomar v petroleum jelly...build update In-Reply-To: MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="----=_Part_3376_7008229.1207440594510" References: ------=_Part_3376_7008229.1207440594510 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Here is my experience, though not nearly as deep as Lynn's. I used hylomar for my first re-build. But the tube I got had partly dried out (even though it was not supposed to do ever dry). I didn't know it was a faulty tube, and had a real B!^(# of a time getting it into the grove and not all over the place (using the technique in Bruce's video). That engine ended up not holding coolant pressure between engine runs. I think there was a lump of hylomar somewhere that allowed to coolant to trickle past. Since then (2 more rebuilds) I have just used vasiline. Easier, cheaper, and both of those engines held coolant pressure indefinitely. Dave Leonard On Fri, Apr 4, 2008 at 11:18 PM, wrote: > In a message dated 4/4/2008 8:53:51 PM Pacific Daylight Time, > CBarber@TexasAttorney.net writes: > > However, if I don't find some, is it really > needed? Again, no mention in the shop manual. Thus I would assume it has > just become "conventional wisdom" as one more good idea. > > As far as holding the "O" rings in the grooves during assembly, just about > anything works just fine. Vasolene is good untill the room gets warm then it > turns to oil and holds nothing at all. > > Then there is the legs or, the sealing of the aluminum castings from the > outer water ring down to the pan rail. > > There is your Holomar or silicone, or permatex or whatever you like for > sealant. If you forget that operation, the engine will weep oil at each > junction untill it is disassembled and done right. > > So it isn't just Holomar, but it has to be something, and Holomar works > great. Thins with alcohol and dosn't turn up in the pickup screen in big > goobers. > > I use 100% GE silicone II, from any source, in a caulking gun. Put it on > your finger and spread it along the surface to be sealed.(from the water "O" > ring to the pan rail). > > I put a microscopic line in the bottom of each "O" ring groove to glue the > rings in place. > But nothing is required to add sealing. Just anything to hold the rings in > place during assembly. For example, if the ring is held in the groove by > gravety, nothing is added. > > You still must goop up each leg from the water groove to the pan rail. > with sealant, So half of the rings need something to hold them in place, and > half don't. Even the "O" rings along the upper dowel holes. > > Holomar is sold anywhere Loctite brands are sold. Hose shops. Driveline > pump and compressor shops. > > Lynn E. Hanover > > > > ------------------------------ > Planning your summer road trip? Check out AOL Travel Guides > . > -- David Leonard Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY http://N4VY.RotaryRoster.net http://RotaryRoster.net ------=_Part_3376_7008229.1207440594510 Content-Type: text/html; charset=ISO-8859-1 Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit Content-Disposition: inline Here is my experience, though not nearly as deep as Lynn's.

I used hylomar for my first re-build.  But the tube I got had partly dried out (even though it was not supposed to do ever dry).  I didn't know it was a faulty tube, and had a real B!^(# of a time getting it into the grove and not all over the place (using the technique in Bruce's video).  That engine ended up not holding coolant pressure between engine runs.  I think there was a lump of hylomar somewhere that allowed to coolant to trickle past.

Since then (2 more rebuilds) I have just used vasiline.  Easier, cheaper, and both of those engines held coolant pressure indefinitely.

Dave Leonard



On Fri, Apr 4, 2008 at 11:18 PM, <Lehanover@aol.com> wrote:
In a message dated 4/4/2008 8:53:51 PM Pacific Daylight Time, CBarber@TexasAttorney.net writes:
However, if I don't find some, is it really
needed?  Again, no mention in the shop manual.  Thus I would assume it has
just become "conventional wisdom" as one more good idea.
As far as holding the "O" rings in the grooves during assembly, just about anything works just fine. Vasolene is good untill the room gets warm then it turns to oil and holds nothing at all.
 
Then there is the legs or, the sealing of the aluminum castings from the outer water ring down to the pan rail.
 
There is your Holomar or silicone, or permatex or whatever you like for sealant. If you forget that operation, the engine will weep oil at each junction untill it is disassembled and done right.
 
So it isn't just Holomar, but it has to be something, and Holomar works great. Thins with alcohol and dosn't turn up in the pickup screen in big goobers.
 
I use 100% GE silicone II, from any source, in a caulking gun. Put it on your finger and spread it along the surface to be sealed.(from the water "O" ring to the pan rail).
 
I put a microscopic line in the bottom of each "O" ring groove to glue the rings in place.
But nothing is required to add sealing. Just anything to hold the rings in place during assembly. For example, if the ring is held in the groove by gravety, nothing is added.
 
You still must goop up each leg from the water groove to the pan rail. with sealant, So half of the rings need something to hold them in place, and half don't. Even the "O" rings along the upper dowel holes.
 
Holomar is sold anywhere Loctite brands are sold. Hose shops. Driveline pump and compressor shops.
 
Lynn E. Hanover 



Planning your summer road trip? Check out AOL Travel Guides.



--
David Leonard

Turbo Rotary RV-6 N4VY
http://N4VY.RotaryRoster.net
http://RotaryRoster.net ------=_Part_3376_7008229.1207440594510--