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Message-ID: <1b4b137c0803261322v4492f06er1852a06e3a9425e8@mail.gmail.com>
Date: Wed, 26 Mar 2008 16:22:33 -0400
From: "Tracy Crook" <tracy@rotaryaviation.com>
Sender: rwstracy@gmail.com
To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] 2-stroke oil
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For the premix oil I use any good BIA cert. TCW-3 2-stroke oil mixed 50-50
with MMO  both of which come from Walmart.  Any of the Redline 2-stroke oil=
s
would be excellent, including the snomobile stuff.

Let us know if you notice any change when you go to premix.  My old 1988
RX-7 felt spunkier when I started using premix in it but it was an old 150K
mile beater.

The bottle says Mobile 1 is compatible with standard mineral oil so I'm sur=
e
a bit of the old stuff in the system won't hurt.

Ignore my rantings on big oil pans and go flying :>)

Tracy

On Wed, Mar 26, 2008 at 11:09 AM, Al Gietzen <ALVentures@cox.net> wrote:

>     I go for the 15W - 50 Mobile 1 cause it has more Zinc for the gears &
> bearings than the lighter weights.  Straight 40W  Redline would be even
> better but I can't get it at Walmart and I'm cheap.
>
> Tracy;
>
> What 2-stroke oil do you use, and can you get it at Walmart?  I note that
> Redline has a number of different 2-stroke oils, the gallon size for
> snowmobiles being the least expensive.  Would that work?
>
>
>
>  BTW, I use a 4 qt sump even on the 20B.  I don't understand the appeal o=
f
> great big oil pans.  Why carry all that extra weight
>
> The bigger pans make sense if you are using the OMP from the pan.  I made
> my custom pan at 8-quarts for that reason; but when I go to premix I'll
> probably carry 5-6.  My 'low oil' light comes on below about 4 quarts.
>
> BTW; is there an issue with a bit of mineral based oil mixed in with the
> synthetic?  When I drain the oil there is still about =BD quart in the oi=
l
> cooler, and I'm sure some in other lines and other places.
>
> Al
>
>
>

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<div>For the premix oil I use any good BIA cert. TCW-3 2-stroke oil mixed 5=
0-50 with MMO&nbsp; both of which come from Walmart.&nbsp; Any of the Redli=
ne 2-stroke oils would be excellent, including the snomobile stuff.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>Let us know if you notice any change when you go to premix.&nbsp; My o=
ld 1988 RX-7 felt spunkier when I started using premix in it but it was an =
old 150K mile beater.</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>The bottle says Mobile 1 is compatible with standard mineral oil so I&=
#39;m sure a bit of the old stuff in the system won&#39;t hurt.&nbsp; </div=
>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>Ignore my rantings on big oil pans and go flying :&gt;)</div>
<div>&nbsp;</div>
<div>Tracy<br><br></div>
<div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Wed, Mar 26, 2008 at 11:09 AM, Al Gietzen &lt=
;<a href=3D"mailto:ALVentures@cox.net">ALVentures@cox.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br=
>
<blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"PADDING-LEFT: 1ex; MARGIN: 0px 0=
px 0px 0.8ex; BORDER-LEFT: #ccc 1px solid">
<div lang=3D"EN-US" vlink=3D"blue" link=3D"blue">
<div>
<div>
<p style=3D"MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in"><font face=3D"Times New Roman" size=3D"3"><=
span style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt">&nbsp; I go for the 15W - 50 Mobile 1 cause =
it has more Zinc for the gears &amp; bearings than the lighter weights.&nbs=
p; Straight 40W&nbsp; Redline would be even better but I can&#39;t get it a=
t Walmart and I&#39;m cheap.</span></font></p>

<p><font face=3D"Verdana" color=3D"blue" size=3D"2"><span style=3D"FONT-SIZ=
E: 11pt; COLOR: blue; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">Tracy</span></font><font face=
=3D"Verdana" color=3D"blue" size=3D"2"><span style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 11pt; COLO=
R: blue; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">;</span></font></p>

<p><font face=3D"Verdana" color=3D"blue" size=3D"2"><span style=3D"FONT-SIZ=
E: 11pt; COLOR: blue; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">What 2-stroke oil do you use, a=
nd can you get it at Walmart?&nbsp; I note that Redline has a number of dif=
ferent 2-stroke oils, the gallon size for snowmobiles being the least expen=
sive.&nbsp; Would that work?</span></font></p>
</div>
<div>
<p style=3D"MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in"><font face=3D"Times New Roman" size=3D"3"><=
span style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt">&nbsp;</span></font></p></div>
<div>
<div bgcolor=3D"#ffffff">
<blockquote style=3D"BORDER-RIGHT: medium none; PADDING-RIGHT: 0in; BORDER-=
TOP: medium none; PADDING-LEFT: 3pt; PADDING-BOTTOM: 0in; MARGIN: 5pt 0in 5=
pt 3pt; BORDER-LEFT: black 1.5pt solid; PADDING-TOP: 0in; BORDER-BOTTOM: me=
dium none">

<div>
<div>
<p style=3D"MARGIN-BOTTOM: 0pt; MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0in"><fon=
t face=3D"Times New Roman" size=3D"3"><span style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt">BTW, =
I use a 4 qt sump even on the 20B.&nbsp; I don&#39;t understand the appeal =
of great big oil pans.&nbsp; Why carry all that extra weight</span></font><=
/p>

<p><font face=3D"Verdana" color=3D"blue" size=3D"2"><span style=3D"FONT-SIZ=
E: 11pt; COLOR: blue; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">The bigger pans make sense if y=
ou are using the OMP from the pan.&nbsp; I made my custom pan at 8-quarts f=
or that reason; but when I go to premix I'll probably carry 5-6.&nbsp; My '=
low oil' light comes on below about 4 quarts.</span></font></p>

<p><font face=3D"Verdana" color=3D"blue" size=3D"2"><span style=3D"FONT-SIZ=
E: 11pt; COLOR: blue; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">BTW; is there an issue with a b=
it of mineral based oil mixed in with the synthetic?&nbsp; When I drain the=
 oil there is still about =BD quart in the oil cooler, and I'm sure some in=
 other lines and other places.</span></font></p>

<p><font face=3D"Verdana" color=3D"blue" size=3D"2"><span style=3D"FONT-SIZ=
E: 11pt; COLOR: blue; FONT-FAMILY: Verdana">Al </span></font></p></div></di=
v></blockquote></div></div>
<p style=3D"MARGIN-BOTTOM: 0pt; MARGIN-LEFT: 0.5in; MARGIN-RIGHT: 0in"><fon=
t face=3D"Times New Roman" size=3D"3"><span style=3D"FONT-SIZE: 12pt">&nbsp=
;</span></font></p></div></div></blockquote></div><br>

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