X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from fmailhost04.isp.att.net ([204.127.217.104] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.2.1) with ESMTP id 2817354 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Tue, 25 Mar 2008 12:41:26 -0400 Received-SPF: none receiver=logan.com; client-ip=204.127.217.104; envelope-from=keltro@att.net Received: from fwebmail14.isp.att.net ([207.115.9.154]) by isp.att.net (frfwmhc04) with SMTP id <20080325164048H0400aarjte>; Tue, 25 Mar 2008 16:40:48 +0000 X-Originating-IP: [207.115.9.154] Received: from [64.250.200.64] by fwebmail14.isp.att.net; Tue, 25 Mar 2008 16:40:48 +0000 From: "Kelly Troyer" To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Using OMP rotor housing only Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2008 16:40:48 +0000 Message-Id: <032520081640.6449.47E92B0E000655460000193122230650629B0A02D29B9B0EBF019D9B040A05@att.net> X-Mailer: AT&T Message Center Version 1 (Feb 26 2008) X-Authenticated-Sender: a2VsdHJvQGF0dC5uZXQ= MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_6449_1206463248_0" --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_6449_1206463248_0 Content-Type: text/plain Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit Al, The 10mm X 1.25 (or 1.50 cannot remember for sure) bolts that fasten the torgue converter to the flexplate of a Mazda automatic transmission are just the correct length (with a copper washer from OMP nozzles) to plug the rotor housing ports........Or shorten standard 10mm bolt to about 1/2 inch of thread length (Make sure bolt does not bottom out before sealing).......... FWIW -- Kelly Troyer "Dyke Delta"_13B ROTARY Engine "RWS"_RD1C/EC2/EM2 "Mistral"_Backplate/Oil Manifold -------------- Original message from "Tracy Crook" : -------------- That's it. Make sure no JB or whatever runs into the housing. Tracy On Tue, Mar 25, 2008 at 11:40 AM, Al Gietzen wrote: I've been considering dissing the OMP and going to premix. My engine is currently off the plane for plumbing changes (oil/water xchanger install) and rework of wing-root radiator air inlet. This may be a good time. Is it as simple as removing the OMP, blanking it off with a plate, and closing the ports in the housing nozzles with JB Weld? Al -----Original Message----- From: Rotary motors in aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net] On Behalf Of Lehanover@aol.com Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2008 7:18 AM To: Rotary motors in aircraft Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Using OMP rotor housing only The engine will run for some time with the OMP not doing anything. Some of my gifted engines have had the hoses broken off. There will be a slight amount of oil added from the oil scrapers on the rotor sides not being perfect. The scrapers will also scrape off unburned fuel and mix it with the crankcase oil. High oil temps will remove most of that fuel through the breather. Note that crankcase breather gases are explosive. A good reason to smell the dipstick when ever it is out. So, as the engine wears out the scrapers it starts needing less top oil. The only downside to injecting into the housings is poor distribution. It leaves a boat wake looking stain on the chrome. So, it looks to me like some of that microscopic amount of oil is discarded without helping anyone. It seems to me that the best case is the premix. If I were to use the OMP, I would drop it all in behind the Throttle Body, or into each throat on a carb. Or if you are a purist, into the float bowl. Years ago synthetic crank case oil was specifically not recommended by Mazda. (because of gumming) Lynn E. Hanover In a message dated 3/25/2008 10:43:57 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, ALVentures@cox.net writes: So it would also seem to me that using the OMP with 2-cycle oil in this scenario is significantly different than pre-mix. But is it as effective, more effective, or worse?? Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL Home. --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_6449_1206463248_0 Content-Type: multipart/related; boundary="NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_6449_1206463248_1" --NextPart_Webmail_9m3u9jl4l_6449_1206463248_1 Content-Type: text/html Content-Transfer-Encoding: 8bit
Al,
  The 10mm X 1.25 (or 1.50 cannot remember for sure) bolts that fasten the
torgue converter to the flexplate of a Mazda automatic transmission are just
the correct length (with a copper washer from OMP nozzles) to plug the
rotor housing ports........Or shorten standard 10mm bolt to about 1/2 inch
of thread length (Make sure bolt does not bottom out before sealing)..........
 
FWIW
--
Kelly Troyer
"Dyke Delta"_13B ROTARY Engine
"RWS"_RD1C/EC2/EM2
"Mistral"_Backplate/Oil Manifold



 
-------------- Original message from "Tracy Crook" <tracy@rotaryaviation.com>: --------------

That's it.  Make sure no JB or whatever runs into the housing.
 
Tracy

On Tue, Mar 25, 2008 at 11:40 AM, Al Gietzen <ALVentures@cox.net> wrote:

I've been considering dissing the OMP and going to premix. My engine is currently off the plane for plumbing changes (oil/water xchanger install) and rework of wing-root radiator air inlet. This may be a good time.  Is it as simple as removing the OMP, blanking it off with a plate, and closing the ports in the housing nozzles with JB Weld?

 

Al

 

-----Original Message-----
From: Rotary motors in aircraft [mailto:flyrotary@lancaironline.net] On Behalf Of Lehanover@aol.com
Sent: Tuesday, March 25, 2008 7:18 AM
To: Rotary motors in aircraft
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: Using OMP rotor housing only

 

The engine will run for some time with the OMP not doing anything. Some of my gifted engines have had the hoses broken off. There will be a slight amount of oil added from the oil scrapers on the rotor sides not being perfect. The scrapers will also scrape off unburned fuel and mix it with the crankcase oil. High oil temps will remove most of that fuel through the breather. Note that crankcase breather gases are explosive. A good reason to smell the dipstick when ever it is out.

 

So, as the engine wears out the scrapers it starts needing less top oil.

 

The only downside to injecting into the housings is poor distribution. It leaves a boat wake looking stain on the chrome. So, it looks to me like some of that microscopic amount of oil is discarded without helping anyone. It seems to me that the best case is the premix. If I were to use the OMP, I would drop it all in behind the Throttle Body, or into each throat on a carb. Or if you are a purist, into the float bowl.  

 

Years ago synthetic crank case oil was specifically not recommended by Mazda. (because of gumming)

 

Lynn E. Hanover

 

 

 

 

In a message dated 3/25/2008 10:43:57 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, ALVentures@cox.net writes:

So it would also seem to me that using the OMP with 2-cycle oil in this scenario is significantly different than pre-mix.  But is it as effective, more effective, or worse??



Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL Home.


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