X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from imo-d05.mx.aol.com ([205.188.157.37] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.2.1) with ESMTP id 2816573 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Tue, 25 Mar 2008 02:00:29 -0400 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=205.188.157.37; envelope-from=Lehanover@aol.com Received: from Lehanover@aol.com by imo-d05.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v38_r9.3.) id q.cfe.2a64ada6 (48600) for ; Tue, 25 Mar 2008 01:58:17 -0400 (EDT) From: Lehanover@aol.com Message-ID: Date: Tue, 25 Mar 2008 01:59:29 EDT Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Oil Change Interval To: flyrotary@lancaironline.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="-----------------------------1206424769" X-Mailer: Unknown sub 36 X-Spam-Flag: NO -------------------------------1206424769 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="UTF-8" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Language: en There is little correlation between car engines and most aircraft engines. =20 The problem with car engines is acid build up caused by low oil temps not =20 boiling off the condensate during each use. The water combines with the sulp= hur =20 compounds from combustion and forming sulfuric acid among a witches brew of= =20 chemicals that are not associated with lubrication. The oil in the bottle o= r=20 can comes with several chemicals that will neutralize some volume of acid.=20= Once=20 it does that, additional acid is free to do the bad mojo on the light alloy= s=20 in the engine. Channels in the bearing faces. Blackend stripes around edges= =20 of bearings, rough surfaces on normally smooth die castings and so on. It i= s=20 seldom that a car sits idle for more than a week.=20 It is the reverse for aircraft. A month off is not uncommon. The rotary wit= h=20 its hotter oil soon after startup has no problem boiling off water based =20 products. It has minimal crankcase volume and on cool down sucks in only a s= mall =20 volume of humidified air, so less condensate than a piston aircraft engine.=20 You should put a filter on your breather, because it does suck air into its= elf=20 on cool down.=20 =20 I have been gifted cars owned by girls that have never had the oil changed.=20= =20 Of course the engines were seized. The breath of Cesar problem. (Evidence of= =20 the first oil will always be there)=20 =20 =20 The object of changing the oil, is to dispose of the acid and renew the ant= i=20 acid package in the oil. At the same time the other products of combustion=20 that have slipped by the seals are removed as well. But the hot oil of the=20 rotary is a big help so long as it runs long enough to get the oil hot. If=20= you=20 have a screw together filter housing in the drain from the reduction box =20 containing a magnet to stop any steel being dropped off the gears, (no eleme= nt, =20 just the magnet) then an annual oil change sounds perfectly acceptable. The=20= =20 engine is under no strain at all and specialty oils are of little value. Use= =20 whatever is best for the gear box. A car racing oil for its extra anti acid=20= =20 package and extra zink anti scuff compounds would be better. And a separate=20= oil =20 supply for the rotors of 2 cycle oil would keep the housings clean and the=20 seals free in their grooves.=20 =20 If you use the Oil metering pump, the crank case oil will be dropped into =20 the rotor housings. Regular street oil resists burning and leaves behind =20 unburned crap from the multi grade plastics, in the housings, fouling the ap= ex =20 seals. If you use the OMP, stick to straight wt. oils. Racing oils make it w= orse =20 as they resist burning or even breakdown to higher temps. Synthetics don't=20 burn at all and are a bad choice for OMP use. You can leave the OMP on and=20= cut=20 into the passage in the front cover anywhere its handy and install a dash 3=20= =20 fitting and run 2 cycle oil from a bottle on the fire wall. Plug the oil=20 passage at the face where it connects with the front iron. Now you can run=20= any =20 crank case oil and not worry about the apex seals.=20 =20 I used Redline synthetic 40 wt. racing oil in the crank case of the race =20 car. The top oil was Redline synthetic racing 2 cycle oil (for dirt bikes) a= nd =20 never a failure. No wear on apex seals (soft carbon). I changed oil every 4=20= =20 races, about 8 hours or a bit less. The pretty green oil (not red?) would =20= be=20 black after 4 weekends. Engine was used between 7,500 and 9,600 RPM. Oil =20 pressure is 100 pounds. oil temp is 180 to 190 (hot day) and water 160 -180-= (hot=20 day) If we could not get to 160 we put the thermostat in it. =20 Lynn E. Hanover =20 =20 =20 =20 =20 =20 In a message dated 3/25/2008 12:10:12 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time, =20 bbradburry@bellsouth.net writes: =20 =20 So 15K at an average of 150 MPH would be 100 hrs=E2=80=A6Most cars change a= t 3K to=20 7K I think=E2=80=A67.5K would get you about 50 hours..??=20 There is no stop and go to build up water and stuff. I bet you could get=20 100 hours on 12 quarts of Mobil 1 with no adverse effects.=20 What do you think, Lynn?=20 Bill B=20 **************Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watch the video on AOL=20 Home. =20 (http://home.aol.com/diy/home-improvement-eric-stromer?video=3D15?ncid=3Daol= hom00030000000001) -------------------------------1206424769 Content-Type: text/html; charset="UTF-8" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable Content-Language: en
There is little correlation between car engines and most aircraft engin= es.=20 The problem with car engines is acid build up caused by low oil temps not=20 boiling off the condensate during each use. The water combines with the sulp= hur=20 compounds from combustion and forming sulfuric acid among a witches=20  brew of chemicals that are not associated with lubrication. The oil in= the=20 bottle or can comes with several chemicals that will neutralize some volume=20= of=20 acid. Once it does that, additional acid is free to do the bad mojo on the l= ight=20 alloys in the engine. Channels in the bearing faces. Blackend stripes around= =20 edges of bearings, rough surfaces on normally smooth die castings and so on.= It=20 is seldom that a car sits idle for more than a week.
It is the reverse for aircraft. A month off is not uncommon. The rotary= =20 with its hotter oil soon after startup has no problem boiling off water base= d=20 products. It has minimal crankcase volume and on cool down sucks in only a s= mall=20 volume of humidified air, so less condensate than a piston aircraft engine.=20= You=20 should put a filter on your breather, because it does suck air into its= elf=20 on cool down.
 
I have been gifted cars owned by girls that have never had the oil chan= ged.=20 Of course the engines were seized. The breath of Cesar problem. (Evidence of= the=20 first oil will always be there)
 
 
The object of changing the oil, is to dispose of the acid and renew the= =20 anti acid package in the oil. At the same time the other products of=20 combustion that have slipped by the seals are removed as well. But the hot o= il=20 of the rotary is a big help so long as it runs long enough to get the oil ho= t.=20 If you have a screw together filter housing in the drain from the reduction=20= box=20 containing a magnet to stop any steel being dropped off the gears, (no eleme= nt,=20 just the magnet) then an annual oil change sounds perfectly acceptable.= The=20 engine is under no strain at all and specialty oils are of little value. Use= =20 whatever is best for the gear box. A car racing oil for its extra anti acid=20 package and extra zink anti scuff compounds would be better. And a separate=20= oil=20 supply for the rotors of 2 cycle oil would keep the housings clean and the s= eals=20 free in their grooves.
 
If you use the Oil metering pump, the crank case oil will be dropped in= to=20 the rotor housings. Regular street oil resists burning and leaves behind=20 unburned crap from the multi grade plastics, in the housings, fouling the ap= ex=20 seals. If you use the OMP, stick to straight wt. oils. Racing oils make it w= orse=20 as they resist burning or even breakdown to higher temps. Synthetics don't b= urn=20 at all and are a bad choice for OMP use. You can leave the OMP on=20= and=20 cut into the passage in the front cover anywhere its handy and install a das= h 3=20 fitting and run 2 cycle oil from a bottle on the fire wall. Plug the oil pas= sage=20 at the face where it connects with the front iron. Now you can run any=20 crank case oil and not worry about the apex seals.
 
I used Redline synthetic 40 wt. racing oil in the crank case of the rac= e=20 car. The top oil was Redline synthetic racing 2 cycle oil (for dirt bikes) a= nd=20 never a failure. No wear on apex seals (soft carbon). I changed oil every 4=20 races, about 8 hours or a bit less. The pretty green oil  (not red?) wo= uld=20 be black after 4 weekends. Engine was used between 7,500 and 9,600 RPM. Oil=20 pressure is 100 pounds. oil temp is 180 to 190 (hot day) and water 160 -180-= =20 (hot day) If we could not get to 160 we put the thermostat in it.
 
Lynn E. Hanover    
 
 
 
 
 
In a message dated 3/25/2008 12:10:12 A.M. Eastern Daylight Time,=20 bbradburry@bellsouth.net writes:
<= FONT=20 style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=3D"Times New Roman" color=3D#= 000000=20 size=3D3>

So 15K at an average of 150 MPH would be 100 hrs= =E2=80=A6Most=20 cars change at 3K to 7K I think=E2=80=A67.5K would get you about 50=20 hours..??

There is no stop and go to build up water and=20 stuff.  I bet you could get 100 hours on 12 quarts of Mobil 1 with no= =20 adverse effects.

What do you think, Lynn?

 

Bill=20 B 

<= BR>

Create a Home Theater Like the Pros. Watc= h the video on AOL Home.
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