X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from imo-d04.mx.aol.com ([205.188.157.36] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.1.11) with ESMTP id 2253818 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Fri, 10 Aug 2007 01:27:21 -0400 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=205.188.157.36; envelope-from=Lehanover@aol.com Received: from Lehanover@aol.com by imo-d04.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v38_r9.2.) id q.c16.1d759058 (32914) for ; Fri, 10 Aug 2007 01:26:35 -0400 (EDT) From: Lehanover@aol.com Message-ID: Date: Fri, 10 Aug 2007 01:26:35 EDT Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Engine oil outlet modification To: flyrotary@lancaironline.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="-----------------------------1186723595" X-Mailer: 9.0 Security Edition for Windows sub 5374 X-Spam-Flag: NO -------------------------------1186723595 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 8/9/2007 7:49:24 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, clouduster@austin.rr.com writes: Does anyone have experience with oil temperatures before and after the modification? Thanks, Dennis H. I was just building a 12A engine and training the owners tonight and it is equipped with such an outlet. You should use a "Boss" fitting hole with straight threads. Tapered pipe threads will crack open the hole. The boss fitting will use and "O" ring and washer to seal the fitting rather than tapered threads. You may also want to replace the front cover to iron "O" ring with an aluminum pill with a .020" hole to supply the OMP if you use one, and a solid pill if you don't. So no failures there. Use a small ball bit in your die grinder to blend the drilled passages into the kidney shaped pockets below the pump. Discard the bug screen on the pickup tube. If the bug screen cover is one of those silver dollar sized things discard it and replace it with a flat disc about 5" in diameter to help protect against a vortex being pulled down from the surface of the oil. Trim as required to keep the disc from touching the pan. Warm the end of the tube with a torch and gently expand the end of the tube about 25%. Lap the engine end of the pickup dead flat. Drill the attach bolts and safety wire. No gasket. No sealant. Check the end clearance on the pump parts. It only needs .004". If you have more than that, lap the engine end of the pump housing until you get down to .004". Clean and assemble pump. Pack it with Vasolene or similar light grease. So you get instant prime in startup. Actually you spin it with the plugs out until you have full oil pressure. I seem to remember that a drilled 90 degree fitting has the same drag as 3 feet of the same diameter hose. This mod makes sense and is fun to do. In race engines the front main bearing is fed with an identical fitting in the front iron. It will surly reduce oil temperature by some amount, but how much I have no idea. Lynn E. Hanover ************************************** Get a sneak peek of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour -------------------------------1186723595 Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

In a message dated 8/9/2007 7:49:24 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,=20 clouduster@austin.rr.com writes:

<= FONT=20 style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=3DArial color=3D#000000 size= =3D2>Does=20 anyone have experience with oil temperatures before and after the=20
modification?

Thanks,
Dennis H.
<= /DIV>

I was just building a 12A engine and training the owners tonight a= nd=20 it is equipped with such an outlet. You should use a "Boss" fitting hole wit= h=20 straight threads. Tapered pipe threads will crack open the hole. The boss=20 fitting will use and "O" ring and washer to seal the fitting rather than tap= ered=20 threads. You may also want to replace the front cover to iron "O" ring with=20= an=20 aluminum pill with a .020" hole to supply the OMP if you use one, and a soli= d=20 pill if you don't. So no failures there.

Use a small ball bit in your die grinder to blend the drilled passages=20= into=20 the kidney shaped pockets below the pump.

Discard the bug screen on the pickup tube. If the bug screen cover is o= ne=20 of those silver dollar sized things discard it and replace it with a flat di= sc=20 about 5" in diameter to help protect against a vortex being pulled down from= the=20 surface of the oil. Trim as required to keep the disc from touching the pan.= =20 Warm the end of the tube with a torch and gently expand the end of the= =20 tube about 25%. Lap the engine end of the pickup dead flat. Drill the attach= =20 bolts and safety wire. No gasket. No sealant. Check the end clearance on the= =20 pump parts. It only needs .004". If you have more than that, lap the engine=20= end=20 of the pump housing until you get down to .004". Clean and assemble pump. Pa= ck=20 it with Vasolene or similar light grease. So you get instant prime in startu= p.=20 Actually you spin it with the plugs out until you have full oil pressure.

I seem to remember that a drilled 90 degree fitting has the same drag a= s 3=20 feet of the same diameter hose.

This mod makes sense and is fun to do. In race engines the front main=20 bearing is fed with an identical fitting in the front iron. It will surly re= duce=20 oil temperature by some amount, but how much I have no idea.

Lynn E. Hanover

Get a sneak pe= ek of the all-new AOL.com.

<= /BODY> -------------------------------1186723595--