X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from imo-m21.mx.aol.com ([64.12.137.2] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.1.10) with ESMTP id 2174103 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Thu, 12 Jul 2007 16:30:02 -0400 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=64.12.137.2; envelope-from=Lehanover@aol.com Received: from Lehanover@aol.com by imo-m21.mx.aol.com (mail_out_v38_r9.2.) id q.d3c.d2074c6 (14501) for ; Thu, 12 Jul 2007 16:29:13 -0400 (EDT) From: Lehanover@aol.com Message-ID: Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 16:29:12 EDT Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Oil Seal Gasket vs Sealant was FlyRotary] Re: The adventure... To: flyrotary@lancaironline.net MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: multipart/alternative; boundary="-----------------------------1184272152" X-Mailer: 9.0 Security Edition for Windows sub 5366 X-Spam-Flag: NO -------------------------------1184272152 Content-Type: text/plain; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit In a message dated 7/12/2007 3:50:56 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, eanderson@carolina.rr.com writes: I find this discussion about sealant Vs gasket interesting. My "Plugs Up" installation has the engine sitting on its side, so naturally the oil flows right across the seam of the oil pan and block. I use the Red RTV sealant for sealing and have for six years. When I tried (early on) a gasket, I found that the gasket eventually soaked through and dripped. So I guess I am really surprised that with the engine in its normal orientation (with the oil pan on the bottom) that some are having problems with leaks. I would suggest a close examination of the fit between pan and the mounting plate. One way is to stick a light bulb in the oil pan (remove oil first) and then put the pan on. If you see any light around the seam then you may have a dented, ding or mussed up surface causing the leak. Ed I use 100% GE silicone tub and tile caulk. Never had a leak but have seen many. Adding sealant to the gasket sometimes pulls out some of the assembly sealant from between the iron and aluminum housings. Apply a bit of sealant at each junction between iron and aluminum. Also, the front cover gasket (if used) must be trimmed to end exactly at the gasket surface of the pan. Too short or too long and it leaks. Sealant must circle every bolt hole top and bottom of the gasket, or the gasket will wet out as above and oil will appear under the pan bolt heads. You can stop it by removing each bolt and cleaning in Lacquer thinner, then a little band of silicone around beneath the bolt head. Let it gel up a while before installing. If you have the pan flange doublers, seal under those holes as well. Pan bolts get loose after a time. After a number of hours, Retorque the bolts several times, then after the last event. Safety wire them. You can apply silicone and many other sealants with cheap kids paint brushes. Does the job, looks real good. Big stallagtites of silicone are interesting to children, but do nothing for our cause. Lynn E. Hanover ************************************** Get a sneak peak of the all-new AOL at http://discover.aol.com/memed/aolcom30tour -------------------------------1184272152 Content-Type: text/html; charset="US-ASCII" Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable

In a message dated 7/12/2007 3:50:56 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,=20 eanderson@carolina.rr.com writes:

<= FONT=20 style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" face=3DArial color=3D#000000 size= =3D2>I find=20 this discussion about sealant Vs gasket interesting. My "Plugs Up"=20
installation has the engine sitting on its side, so naturally th= e=20 oil flows
right across the seam of the oil pan and block. I use=20= the=20 Red RTV sealant
for sealing and have for six years. When I tried= =20 (early on) a gasket, I
found that the gasket eventually soaked through= and=20 dripped. So I guess I
am really surprised that with the engine i= n=20 its normal orientation (with the
oil pan on the bottom) that some are=20 having problems with leaks.

I would suggest a close examination of=20= the=20 fit between pan and the mounting
plate. One way is to stick a li= ght=20 bulb in the oil pan (remove oil first)
and then put the pan on. =20= If=20 you see any light around the seam then you may
have a dented, ding or=20 mussed up surface causing the leak.

Ed

I use 100% GE silicone tub and tile caulk. Never had a leak but have se= en=20 many. Adding sealant to the gasket sometimes pulls out some of the assembly=20 sealant from between the iron and aluminum housings. Apply a bit of sealant=20= at=20 each junction between iron and aluminum. Also, the front cover gasket (if us= ed)=20 must be trimmed to end exactly at the gasket surface of the pan. Too short o= r=20 too long and it leaks.

Sealant must circle every bolt hole top and bottom of the gasket, or th= e=20 gasket will wet out as above and oil will appear under the pan bolt heads. Y= ou=20 can stop it by removing each bolt and cleaning in Lacquer thinner, then a li= ttle=20 band of silicone around beneath the bolt head. Let it gel up a while before=20 installing. If you have the pan flange doublers, seal under those holes as w= ell.=20 Pan bolts get loose after a time. After a number of hours, Retorq= ue=20 the bolts several times, then after the last event. Safety wire=20 them.

You can apply silicone and many other sealants with cheap kids paint=20 brushes. Does the job, looks real good. Big stallagtites of silicone are=20 interesting to children, but do nothing for our cause.

Lynn E. Hanover

Get a sneak peak of the all-new AOL.com.

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