Mailing List flyrotary@lancaironline.net Message #38366
From: <Lehanover@aol.com>
Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: Sparkless update ...now Oil again
Date: Thu, 12 Jul 2007 16:06:57 EDT
To: <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
In a message dated 7/12/2007 2:38:47 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time, CBarber@TexasAttorney.net writes:
Put the IVO prop on and ran with it 'bout a week and half, or so, ago.   REALLY makes it seem like an airplane.  Seems to be running better each day as we diagnose and cure problems.
 
On that note (and this is cross posted on canardaviation.com) is what oils are recommended during break in.  I searched the archive and could not get it to respond, but I am all but certain we have discussed type of oil, how long to use during break in and what oil to move to and when.  Seems I recall dino oil being used at first, drain, change filter/oil and run. After x number of hours repeat a couple of times before moving to synthetic.  If so, how long on dino.  How do you compare break-in road miles to hobbs hours?  As Dave stated, we have about 1.5 hours right now as we troubleshoot for smooth, consistent and cool operation (gee, new tuning and keeping a new engine install cool in a Houston summer while Tracy is out of town.......good timing Chris)
 
All the best,
 
Chris
A cheap straight weight dino oil is just fine. No flying just 2000 RPM light load. Three hours for metal seals, 2 hours for carbon seals or ceramic seals. Just the side seals need some help. Ceramic seals never wear in. And never wear out.
 
In racing with carbon seals the 2nd and third weekend will be the best power wise.
 
After 2 hours at fast idle, one lap at 6,500 RPM, one lap at 7,000 RPM, and so on to 9,500,
then lay into it shifting at 9,600 RPM.
 
For metal seals you might do all of your tuning and fast taxi stuff up to 4 hours. Then dump the oil hot. Open the filter and examine the paper in the folds. Look for silver and copper flakes. Look through the spent oil for silver sparkles. There will be a few flakes here and there. No problem. However..............
 
A line of flakes trapped in the folds means a tear down and a looksee is required. This is very seldom the case. Install a new (Non-Fram) filter. If you use the OMP with crankcase oil, install a very high quality straight weight dino oil. If you premix or top oil from a bottle of 2 cycle oil, add a straight weight, or multi weight synthetic to the sump. Safety wire the drain plug and the filter. 
 
You are cleared to roam about the country.
 
Lynn E. Hanover




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