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From: "George Lendich" <lendich@optusnet.com.au>
To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
References: <list-2090090@logan.com>
Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] Re: For Lynn....Freshening 13B Side Housings
Date: Fri, 8 Jun 2007 11:05:54 +1000
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Bill,
Local services for me.
George ( down under)

> George,
>  You certainly could. IF you can find someone that does nitriding nearby. 
> (that's the hard part) In central California heat treaters and chemical 
> processing is going away fast. It used to be easy, darn it.
> Bill Jepson
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: George Lendich <lendich@optusnet.com.au>
> To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
> Sent: Thu, 7 Jun 2007 2:57 pm
> Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: For Lynn....Freshening 13B Side Housings
>
>
>
>
>
> I use old fashioned pad cement to glue on 240 wet or dry silicone carbide 
> paper. It acts like a thick contact cement. Just back and forth stripes 
> quickly and clamp in the paper and give it a twist to spread the glue 
> around, than lift an edge and blow on the glue to get it curing, then push 
> the paper back on. Nothing else will touch the Nitride surface. I run it 
> flat only, and flooded with kerosene or number 2 diesel. Just to keep the 
> paper clean and cutting well. The idea is to add thousands of oil holding 
> circles.
>
>
>
> Make no attempt to reduce the material along side the wear mark in th 
> middle of the combustion side, where the sides seals wear off the most 
> material. Wear over .006" should
>
> indicate a regrind and or lap job. Engines will run perfectly well with 
> more wear but start to use oil and loose compression.
>
>
>
> Just use the same time and pressure everywhere, and all will be well. Use 
> a propane torch on the abrasive face to release the pad glue. This was 
> standard operating procedure in body shops around for years. Now the hook 
> and loop stuff and pre-glued pads are taking over. But nobody makes 
> silicone carbide in hook and loop (yet).
>
>
>
> Make sure the DA is set on orbital instead of grind. The DA in this case 
> means Dual Action.
>
> I didn't know that for years and used one every day. I thought it was a 
> brand name.
>
>
>
> Lynn E. Hanover
>
>
>
> Lynn,
>
> Having looked at that wear area on the end housings, I was wondering if 
> this was in excess, could we have the surface ground and then re-Nitrited?
>
> The whole process wouldn't be anywhere near as expensive as new housings
>
> George (down under)
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> See what's free at AOL.com.
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Make no attempt to reduce the material along side the wear mark in th 
> middle of the combustion side, where the sides seals wear off the most 
> material. Wear over .006" should
>
> indicate a regrind and or lap job. Engines will run perfectly well with 
> more wear but start to use oil and loose compression.
>
>
>
> Just use the same time and pressure everywhere, and all will be well. Use 
> a propane torch on the abrasive face to release the pad glue. This was 
> standard operating procedure in body shops around for years. Now the hook 
> and loop stuff and pre-glued pads are taking over. But nobody makes 
> silicone carbide in hook and loop (yet).
>
>
>
> Make sure the DA is set on orbital instead of grind. The DA in this case 
> means Dual Action.
>
> I didn't know that for years and used one every day. I thought it was a 
> brand name.
>
>
>
> Lynn E. Hanover
>
>
>
> Lynn,
>
> Having looked at that wear area on the end housings, I was wondering if 
> this was in excess, could we have the surface ground and then re-Nitrited?
>
> The whole process wouldn't be anywhere near as expensive as new housings
>
> George (down under)
>
>
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------
> See what's free at AOL.com.
>
>
>
> ________________________________________________________________________
> AOL now offers free email to everyone.  Find out more about what's free 
> from AOL at AOL.com.
> =0
>
> --
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