|
|
George,
You certainly could. IF you can find someone that does nitriding nearby. (that's the hard part) In central California heat treaters and chemical processing is going away fast. It used to be easy, darn it.
Bill Jepson
-----Original Message-----
From: George Lendich <lendich@optusnet.com.au>
To: Rotary motors in aircraft <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Thu, 7 Jun 2007 2:57 pm
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: For Lynn....Freshening 13B Side Housings
I use old fashioned pad cement to glue on 240 wet or dry silicone carbide paper. It acts like a thick contact cement. Just back and forth stripes quickly and clamp in the paper and give it a twist to spread the glue around, than lift an edge and blow on the glue to get it curing, then push the paper back on. Nothing else will touch the Nitride surface. I run it flat only, and flooded with kerosene or number 2 diesel. Just to keep the paper clean and cutting well. The idea is to add thousands of oil holding circles.
Make no attempt to reduce the material along side the wear mark in th middle of the combustion side, where the sides seals wear off the most material. Wear over .006" should
indicate a regrind and or lap job. Engines will run perfectly well with more wear but start to use oil and loose compression.
Just use the same time and pressure everywhere, and all will be well. Use a propane torch on the abrasive face to release the pad glue. This was standard operating procedure in body shops around for years. Now the hook and loop stuff and pre-glued pads are taking over. But nobody makes silicone carbide in hook and loop (yet).
Make sure the DA is set on orbital instead of grind. The DA in this case means Dual Action.
I didn't know that for years and used one every day. I thought it was a brand name.
Lynn E. Hanover
Lynn,
Having looked at that wear area on the end housings, I was wondering if this was in excess, could we have the surface ground and then re-Nitrited?
The whole process wouldn't be anywhere near as expensive as new housings
George (down under)
------------------------------------------------------------
See what's free at AOL.com.
Make no attempt to reduce the material along side the wear mark in th middle of the combustion side, where the sides seals wear off the most material. Wear over .006" should
indicate a regrind and or lap job. Engines will run perfectly well with more wear but start to use oil and loose compression.
Just use the same time and pressure everywhere, and all will be well. Use a propane torch on the abrasive face to release the pad glue. This was standard operating procedure in body shops around for years. Now the hook and loop stuff and pre-glued pads are taking over. But nobody makes silicone carbide in hook and loop (yet).
Make sure the DA is set on orbital instead of grind. The DA in this case means Dual Action.
I didn't know that for years and used one every day. I thought it was a brand name.
Lynn E. Hanover
Lynn,
Having looked at that wear area on the end housings, I was wondering if this was in excess, could we have the surface ground and then re-Nitrited?
The whole process wouldn't be anywhere near as expensive as new housings
George (down under)
------------------------------------------------------------
See what's free at AOL.com.
________________________________________________________________________
AOL now offers free email to everyone. Find out more about what's free from AOL at AOL.com.
=0
|
|