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I agree with Finn. I read someplace (that appeared credible) that you could loose 20% of your cooling with leaks totaling less than 1 sq inch - easy to get with a small hole here and there. Don't know how accurate that figure is , but the thought is there - plug all leaks.
Ed
----- Original Message ----- From: "Finn Lassen" <finn.lassen@verizon.net>
To: "Rotary motors in aircraft" <flyrotary@lancaironline.net>
Sent: Wednesday, May 30, 2007 11:06 AM
Subject: [FlyRotary] Re: James Cowl - RV-7a - Renesis - Cooling
Hi Dennis,
Hans already mentioned this in passing, but I want to emphasize it:
How well are the radiators sealed against the cowling and in between each other?
Seeming small cracks or openings can make a big difference.
Finn
Dennis Haverlah wrote:
I had very marginal cooling on my first and second flight - RV 7A, James cowl, Griffin Scirocco aluminum double pass water radiator with a Mazda 1989? RX-7 oil cooler. Water radiator fin size - 22LX13WX2.5T inches. Oil - 19LX4.5WX 2T inches. The radiators are mounted side-by-side under the engine and are at about 25 - 30 degree to the inlet air flow. (The air must turn 60-65 deg to flow through the radiators) See photos 1 and 2. After my first 2 flights, I constructed a divider/duct to provide a duct for the engine combustion air to make the sharp turn 90 deg. up after the inlet to get to the filter. The bottom of this duct was also supposed to provide a duct wall for the air going to the radiators. See photo 3. Two flights demonstrated this really hurt - not helped - my cooling. Now I can barely take off and fly the pattern before getting up to 210 - 215 on oil and water. The divider duct took out about 8-10 sq. in. of inlet area but removed the engine combustion air requirement form the remaining inlet air going in the larger inlet.
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