X-Virus-Scanned: clean according to Sophos on Logan.com Return-Path: Received: from m12.lax.untd.com ([64.136.30.75] verified) by logan.com (CommuniGate Pro SMTP 5.1.9) with SMTP id 2071098 for flyrotary@lancaironline.net; Mon, 28 May 2007 08:31:54 -0400 Received-SPF: pass receiver=logan.com; client-ip=64.136.30.75; envelope-from=alwick@juno.com Received: from m12.lax.untd.com (localhost [127.0.0.1]) by m12.lax.untd.com with SMTP id AABDFXU45ABJQ9QS for (sender ); Mon, 28 May 2007 05:30:19 -0700 (PDT) X-UNTD-OriginStamp: L941HVjjYzDhN3itp//mkLvsKhYbmikORYUugs+yPFa13/clBZ7xBQ== Received: (from alwick@juno.com) by m12.lax.untd.com (jqueuemail) id MNTZNXBA; Mon, 28 May 2007 05:29:41 PDT To: flyrotary@lancaironline.net Date: Mon, 28 May 2007 05:29:11 -0700 Subject: Re: [FlyRotary] James Cowl - RV-7a - Renesis - Cooling Message-ID: <20070528.052919.3180.0.alwick@juno.com> X-Mailer: Juno 5.0.49 MIME-Version: 1.0 Content-Type: text/plain; charset=us-ascii Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit X-Juno-Line-Breaks: 0-1,5-6,8-9,13,18,21-22,24-29,31,33-37,39-99,101,103-104 From: al p wick X-ContentStamp: 37:18:1483374373 X-MAIL-INFO:1614149499d0f434d5c47d94847db98191b01d7de1208d9599e11db0e119e1a4509009b5147094a1942499a5b9d9c5a534d0fd X-UNTD-Peer-Info: 127.0.0.1|localhost|m12.lax.untd.com|alwick@juno.com Couple things really grabbed me from the photo's. 1) Expecting air to turn so sharply going thru the cores. 2) It looks like fluid flow through the radiator is dramatically reduced. Am I seeing that right? Hose reduces flow by 70% compared to automobile? I try not to allow myself to assume it's ok just because someone else did it. I was unable to understand your description of changes. However, if the facts say that it's a negative change, then go back to what you had. I also like the diverter theory, so I'd make up a bunch of different diverters, then test which makes a difference. I'd make them so I could easily install and remove them. Recognizing that the "aha" design approach is seldom real affective. Later I'd make them pretty. You don't have to test this on your plane(unsafe). You can test it in your car. Take a soda straw, stick it out the window at various speeds, angles. Convert that to facts by placing a clear tube on end of straw. Fill tube with water. Instant pressure gage. Put a ruler behind it and suddenly you are dealing with facts. Put a diverter on the end of a stick, then test trying to divert air into straw. You can then easily test different angles, speeds, distance from straw. Don't try to finesse your system, throw rocks at it. Big changes. Convert your ideas to facts. Don't rely on theory and feelings. Good luck! -al wick Cozy IV powered by Turbo Subaru 3.0R with variable valve lift and cam timing. Artificial intelligence in cockpit, N9032U 240+ hours from Portland, Oregon Glass panel design, Subaru install, Prop construct, Risk assessment info: http://www.maddyhome.com/canardpages/pages/alwick/index.html On Sun, 27 May 2007 13:11:09 -0500 Dennis Haverlah writes: > I had very marginal cooling on my first and second flight - RV 7A, > James > cowl, Griffin Scirocco aluminum double pass water radiator with a > Mazda > 1989? RX-7 oil cooler. Water radiator fin size - 22LX13WX2.5T > inches. > Oil - 19LX4.5WX 2T inches. The radiators are mounted side-by-side > > under the engine and are at about 25 - 30 degree to the inlet air > flow. > (The air must turn 60-65 deg to flow through the radiators) See > photos > 1 and 2. After my first 2 flights, I constructed a divider/duct to > > provide a duct for the engine combustion air to make the sharp turn > 90 > deg. up after the inlet to get to the filter. The bottom of this > duct > was also supposed to provide a duct wall for the air going to the > radiators. See photo 3. Two flights demonstrated this really hurt > - > not helped - my cooling. Now I can barely take off and fly the > pattern > before getting up to 210 - 215 on oil and water. The divider duct > took > out about 8-10 sq. in. of inlet area but removed the engine > combustion > air requirement form the remaining inlet air going in the larger > inlet. > > My inlet is about 50 sq. in. and the outlet is about 67 sq. in. > This > cowl was used successfully on the Power Sport a/c so I believe the > inlet > and outlet are at least big enough for 160 + hp. When I first > posted > pictures of the radiator installation someone suggested I may need > turning vanes to improve flow to the radiators. I am now ready to > try > the turning vanes below the radiators. > > Does anyone have info. I can use to design the turning vanes? The > K&W > document on page 273 mentions guide vanes but does not go into > detail. > I am thinking of 2 inch wide vanes long enough to go from the left > to > right side of the radiators and spaced 4 inches apart with the top > of > the vanes about 3/4 inch below the radiator fins. > Comments or -- Any other ideas? > > Dennis H. > > > > -al wick Cozy IV powered by Turbo Subaru 3.0R with variable valve lift and cam timing. Artificial intelligence in cockpit, N9032U 240+ hours from Portland, Oregon Glass panel design, Subaru install, Prop construct, Risk assessment info: http://www.maddyhome.com/canardpages/pages/alwick/index.html